swartlkk this is for your tech article after thorough searching I do believe I have located the AC Drain for my Blazer and that hole in the case wasn't it. But this next Pic along with any from the tear down to get to it were for you and your article. And since I didn't clean anything out at the drain but through the mirror in the pic it looks as if there could be more then one slot that I think it was captain hook that told me not to use anything metal when cleaning that a pinched straw end would be the best and safest tool to use. So once again thank you Blazer Forum Moderators for all the help with what would be impossible to do without your help. Also when looking at that in magnification it looks as if there is more then one slot that drains water and were the drip is seems to be the only one dripping so it seems I need to get back in there and hit it with compressed air. And clean it up so more then a drip is coming out even though it amounts to quite a lot of condensation but still might be why my floor board was wet. After locating what I believe to be the evaporator drain and rather then remove that inner fender well again I just made a tool that will clean out the drain for a couple of bucks. You will need to remove the tire to get better sight of it and you will need a extendable mirror then you can clean out the slot or slots with the compressed air.

 

swartlkk I was trying to change it so it would be helpful to all needing help in this area. But it seemed to remove the pic,s and the other helpful info for others. So if you wouldn't mind put it back to the way it was or write your tech article but please don't leave it this way now there isn't even a pic of the drain that I found due to how you explained it.

 

To any Blazer owners. I have posted pic,s of the tear down for anyone to benefit from. Thought a moderator was going to make a tech article for all. but as I said does any blazer owners know there air conditioning in my pic,s there is a tiny slice drain that drains condensation when air is on and back behind that is a 5/16 circle hole that after hitting it with air I found out it is a drain. As I found out today when I hit it with air. So my question is was there supposed to be a drain tube there. Because the condensation coming from that hole seems to be getting a cable with a grommet going through the fire wall all wet and when wet it might be what is getting my floor wet. Since all drains are draining quite well. There is definitely no blockage. You can PM me or even E Mail me I would appreciate the help.

 

[QUOTE=johnnylovsey;678173]Wet floor board while using AC and driving around town.

OK swartlkk I tore it all down only to find the evaporator drain clean as could be. I could see rite in to the evaporator coils and didn't see any pine needles sticks or any blockage so I am back to square one with it being clean and the only issue was the bolt together case down at the bottom was dripping so I put some gasket sealer in the leaky crack an I will give it 48 hours to cure before using the AC, Also the hole didn't have a hose that might have diverted the drainage. And one more thing that may make a difference is the inner fender well splash guards have broken off from being pinned up to many times. So I have ordered some 1/16'' rubber sheeting and I intend on making my own splash guards for the inner wells. And from there we will see if any more water gets on the floor board. And if so I will be back asking a few more questions. But pic from these pic,s to make your tech article. and the next ones on the tear down. One more thing the most important so far when using compressed air the hold down bolts for the case to the fire wall that are all rusty had the crumbling gaskets fall off three of them. So now I believe I know were the water is coming in from and how to stop it. Replace those gaskets were possible and spray the crack if there is one between the firewall and the evaporator case. Also one last comment I took a plastic straw and cleaned out the drain slit and after using air in the round one both were draining. So my question to you would be does that rear circle drain come stock with a hose or was it the way it is now always or do you know. But thankfully I figured this one out myself there is three drains the sliver one and the two round 5/16 holes near the hex head bolts with the rubber washers and I now believe the furthest one towards the driver side of the case is the one leaking into the cab but in the cab there is just a round head in the vent casing and it seems as if you would tighten it from the firewall side and I think it is one of the two hex head bolts with the 5/16" bolt and washer just like the one in my pic,s by the antenna wire going through the fire wall. Oh yea and I am most certain since the crumbling gaskets fell on me while hitting the Evaporator case with air. The leak is when any water hits the fire wall and gets under the evaporator case or in through the crumbling gaskets.. And my solution is to replace the washers with gaskets on them and to hit the rest of the leakage area with liquid rubber in a can. But to help any one with the same problem leak. I will take before pic,s of what I think is leaking and then use my patented leak detector to prove it with dye from the fire wall side and then check the cab area with the black light.

 

I still wish you would have took the pic,s and made a tech article it would have been much more helpful for others trying to locate the evaporator drain and leaks in there own blazers on the floor board. I took up the carpet and some of the padding at top by the air vents on my passenger floor and found were the leak was coming in from. There is it looks like a rivet head holding some of the interior venting and while spraying the hose at the evaporator case near the two hex head bolts that have the washer with the approximately a 5/16 bolt to tighten down the case from the firewall. I am hoping that will be the same bolt letting in the water and am prepared to take my leak detector with some automotive dye in the mineral oil and spraying the smoke at the stud on the case fire wall side and then going to the interior and use the black light to see if there is any dye on the interior side of the stud and if so it will be repairable with a new washer with the rubber on it and from the firewall side I will put in the two washers for bolts 19 and 20 in the diagram from Gm of the evaporator case and the two hex bolts with a nut and rubber washers on them. And I will add a pic of the dye on the interior stud if the leak detector follows the threads from the fire wall to the interior. To prove were once and for all were my leak is coming from. Today after pulling up the carpet I sprayed a spray from the hose at the area were those bolts are located but couldn't see in there with the inner fender well in place as well as the tire but it leaked quite well in seconds I will take off the tire and think that will be enough to leak test it with smoke and dye tester I built for leak location everywhere in the entire automotive system. I will add a Pic if the dye and smoker leak detector works on a stud from the fire wall to the interior also will get one before of the second 5/16" round drain hole. The water is following #19 hex head stud that can only be tightened from under the car on fire wall. It is the pic of the vent with what looks like a rivet holding down the vent. As for the new washers will apply the two new ones after smoking the stud for proof positive of leak by dye following the threads of #19 And also possible coming from #20 hex head bolt on fire wall under car. Will finish off this whole job tomorrow with the final pics. With the dye as proof positive that the dye will locate the leak location on the stud. Ok added to much mineral oil so needed to add two more ounces of dye to the mix to see if were the water leaked in with the hose. So I am going to put it all back together an hit both inside the cab by the rivets from # 19 and #20 bolts with flex rubber in a can then give it three days to fully cure then before putting the carpet back down I will hit it with water from the hose and drive the freeway both of witch got the floorboard wet. An we will see once and for all if the washers and the rubber flex in a can and the replacement of the inner fender well splash guards will stop the leak. Ok the hex bolt on the right not the one with rusty washer is the one doing the leaking and the replacement of the washers and liquid flex did the job no leat with air on os spraying with the hose for quitw a wile dry as should be.

 

Finally today was able to run AC without water dripping from #20 bolt the one on left from in my cab pitchers of the venting. So I pulled the inner fender wells three times passenger side and once drivers side. And after installing the new bolts with rubber washers I hit the hole area with flex liquid rubber in a can inside, outside. Before pulling the nuts with the washers on I checked and they were real loose may have been able to just tighten them and then liquid flux the hole area as I did but I had them so I used them. My carpet is still pulled up but after a freeway run to Burien and the hose test at the fire wall with the tire on and the fender well in place just lift up the splash guards and use a spray not hard spray to see if any water comes through were it did before. An if not the carpet will be put back down with a successful repair for any one that wants to repair their own this is a good method to use. That is if there leak is coming in from # 20 bolt on the evaporator case as was mine. And this week end I pulled the inner fender well once more to re flex the whole area real well and to add splash guards to the inner fender well to keep the plugs and everything else that those guards help prevent water from getting to.