Don't drive away from the shop with a cold motor NOPE.

If you went there with codes, and the problem ain't fixed, you're not going to know about it until it's fully warmed up, and the computer has done a complete system check. Chances are, you're back home, or at work, BEFORE then, and if the problem is still there, you ain't gonna' know about it till you take a trip - the perfect time to find out.

Cold motors run on MAX'ed fuel delivery, and RUN LIKE A CHAMP, with ALL KINDS OF PROBLEMS. Warmed up motors reduce fuel to MINIMUM, and the SMALLEST problem makes them choke and sputter.

For example, you got a problem, and go to the mechanic. He scans it, and says, "MAF circuit is bad". He tells you it's PROBABLY the MAF - and he can replace it uh huh. And he can. And so can this guy:



Problem is, if you had a chafed wire, or a bad ground, your MAF WAS GOOD, and you just wasted $300 YUP. And you're not gonna' know about it until it's FULLY warmed up nope. THEN, you're gonna' get a code for MAF.

And you're not gonna' get your $$ back, because you approved the mechanic to replace the MAF when he said it was PROBABLY bad, instead of doing diagnostics.

Don't believe it? Search this forum for 'mechanic', and read the threads YUP.

When you go to the shop, ask to see his multimeter. If it doesn't have grease on it, or it DOES have dust on it, tell him, ''seeya..."

Then when they call, and say it's ready, tell them to start the car, so it's warm when you get there.

PM me your $$ that you save YUP...