Black box w/fuel lines?
#1
Black box w/fuel lines?
Hey folks, we had a little mishap earlier...my back left tire self destructed, ie the recap completely came off (and this was the factory spare, used very very little) and when it did, it took part of my bumper with it and bent out a large flare of metal. Going 40 mph. We smelled a scent of fuel and saw the black box I've taken pictures of just kinda hanging there, apparently knocked down by the impact. What is it? It says "DANGER---FUEL FLAMMABLE" on the 2 small hoses, and there's a LARGE black hose that has a chemical like smell to it also hanging down. The top most fuel line is on the nipple, with a small crack at the base of the box, and the second lower fuel line was completely disconnected, and I clipped it back on. No idea where the large black hose goes, but we put a spare on and drove it home, and just want a little closure on what that is.
The black hose and the line that I reconnected:
The box in question:
The line that I had to reconnect and the rear of that box:
Damage to plastic:
Damage to the metal bumper, yes...the thread coming off the tire did this:
I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow (4 miles) and just see how it does...it's been one thing after another here lately. In the last month and a half, we've replaced the windshield, fuel pump, rear brakes (maintenance, I know), rear right wheel bearing, a front right wheel bearing is on the way to be put on, and I now need a rear right caliper. It's sticking with these new pads and has already wore down the inside pad considerably, not to mention heating the tire up a bit...but having to replace things as I get the money. Minimum wage and less than 20 hours a week really sucks.
I haven't posted on here in a while by the way, and my name is James Dean. Nice to meet you all.
The black hose and the line that I reconnected:
The box in question:
The line that I had to reconnect and the rear of that box:
Damage to plastic:
Damage to the metal bumper, yes...the thread coming off the tire did this:
I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow (4 miles) and just see how it does...it's been one thing after another here lately. In the last month and a half, we've replaced the windshield, fuel pump, rear brakes (maintenance, I know), rear right wheel bearing, a front right wheel bearing is on the way to be put on, and I now need a rear right caliper. It's sticking with these new pads and has already wore down the inside pad considerably, not to mention heating the tire up a bit...but having to replace things as I get the money. Minimum wage and less than 20 hours a week really sucks.
I haven't posted on here in a while by the way, and my name is James Dean. Nice to meet you all.
#2
hi james, is it really james dean, how cool is that name!
can the hose not be re-attached to the canister thing. I'm not positive what each hose does and where it goes. I think fuel vents there.
a wrecker will have the proper hoses going there, you could try fixing it or re-run the line going to where ever it goes...
be save.
can the hose not be re-attached to the canister thing. I'm not positive what each hose does and where it goes. I think fuel vents there.
a wrecker will have the proper hoses going there, you could try fixing it or re-run the line going to where ever it goes...
be save.
#3
that would be the charcoal canister When your fuel (gas) expands it builds pressure inside your gas tank. There is a fuel line that runs to your Charcoal canister and the gas fumes are pushed through the canister. The charcoal sucks up the bad part of the fumes and stores them in the charcoal. As you are driving a valve is turned and now the reverse happens. Fresh air is pulled through the canister where it picks up the gas fumes and then is pulled into your intake manifold where it goes into the engine and is burned up and comes out the tailpipe as CO2 and Water Vapor (in a perfectly clean burning engine). Key items to having your Canister work properly: a good gas cap screwed on properly and no leaks in those vapor lines.
#4
that would be the charcoal canister When your fuel (gas) expands it builds pressure inside your gas tank. There is a fuel line that runs to your Charcoal canister and the gas fumes are pushed through the canister. The charcoal sucks up the bad part of the fumes and stores them in the charcoal. As you are driving a valve is turned and now the reverse happens. Fresh air is pulled through the canister where it picks up the gas fumes and then is pulled into your intake manifold where it goes into the engine and is burned up and comes out the tailpipe as CO2 and Water Vapor (in a perfectly clean burning engine). Key items to having your Canister work properly: a good gas cap screwed on properly and no leaks in those vapor lines.
#6
Recall
Look into or report the incident I had same issue believing the caliper was defective after about 3 weeks of replacing both front, soon after a week apart both front hubs separated from the inner assembly which cause both tire to freeze up, one to fall off an break calpier/caliper bracket/brake line/tie rod plum off the passenger, driver side frooze up, heated up, started smoking, and tire leaned outta,. Had replace almost 800$ in parts, sheriff called, a tow home the first time, 2nd x had drive home backward to prevent it from fully seperating. Bearings were completely squared off, retaining ring broke, along with all maintenance fully used regularly. Usually hubs make a train or cha Cha Cha sound like a card in a bicycle spoke way before failing and still usually do not seperate...maybe tie rod or ball joint would cause seperating of the complete tire but still show signs way before a few hours prior to incidents. This sounded like you described a screeching noise which made me believe the caliper was stuck at first being not even related.
#7
Look into or report the incident I had same issue believing the caliper was defective after about 3 weeks of replacing both front, soon after a week apart both front hubs separated from the inner assembly which cause both tire to freeze up, one to fall off an break calpier/caliper bracket/brake line/tie rod plum off the passenger, driver side frooze up, heated up, started smoking, and tire leaned outta,. Had replace almost 800$ in parts, sheriff called, a tow home the first time, 2nd x had drive home backward to prevent it from fully seperating. Bearings were completely squared off, retaining ring broke, along with all maintenance fully used regularly. Usually hubs make a train or cha Cha Cha sound like a card in a bicycle spoke way before failing and still usually do not seperate...maybe tie rod or ball joint would cause seperating of the complete tire but still show signs way before a few hours prior to incidents. This sounded like you described a screeching noise which made me believe the caliper was stuck at first being not even related.
#8
To concern or not to concern that is the question?
Here's some pics...
#9
Evaporation Canister
I understand it's function and it's necessity for proper Emissions. In the event for a temporary solution in the absence of the canister, can these 3 lines be capped or looped to each other?
#10
If the charcoal cannister has been removed then there is no point in connecting any of the lines together. The vehicle will run fine, generate a trouble code, increase emissions and not pass inspection.
George
George