Bleeding rear brakes
#21
Yes, bleeding the brakes on these things can be a real PITA.
I noticed you said your Blazer is a RHD.
FYI, if your radiator fails, a DIRECT replacement IS still available, I think I got mine from RockAuto.
There is a thread on here somewhere about RHD radiators.
Good luck.
Steve.
I noticed you said your Blazer is a RHD.
FYI, if your radiator fails, a DIRECT replacement IS still available, I think I got mine from RockAuto.
There is a thread on here somewhere about RHD radiators.
Good luck.
Steve.
#23
Hello Captain, yes the light comes on and goes off when ignition switched on and started. Going back to basics, I'm thinking that the master cylinder may need bleeding although I don't remember having to top it up when I replace all the pipework to the rear brakes. Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks
#24
If/when the "BRAKE" light goes off, it means the centering valve is where it needs to be in order
to bleed all of the steel lines at their respective bleeders.
Here are a few tips:
Master cylinder cover must be removed when gravity bleeding, & it must not go dry.
Master cylinder must be removed and bench bled to be certain that there is no air trapped inside of it.
There can be no air in the master cylinder, or the lines to the EBCM, for the automated bleed to work properly.
The sole purpose of the automated bleed, is to move non aerated fluid from the master cylinder through the
master, lines to the EBCM, the solenoids, and the passages in the EBCM. If there is ANY air in the master,
or the lines to the EBCM, it totally defeats the purpose of the automated bleed.
After the automated bleed, each wheel MUST be bled. This can take some time because the air expelled
into the steel brake lines during the automated bleed, needs to travel through the lines, and exit the bleeders.
It may be necessary to perform the complete automated bleed procedure a few times to remove all of the air.
Keep in mind, that the "old school" bleed procedure of pump, hold, and open the bleeder,
causes more problems on this system, and should not be used. The key to successfully bleeding this
system is to be patient, and no short cuts.
.
to bleed all of the steel lines at their respective bleeders.
Here are a few tips:
Master cylinder cover must be removed when gravity bleeding, & it must not go dry.
Master cylinder must be removed and bench bled to be certain that there is no air trapped inside of it.
There can be no air in the master cylinder, or the lines to the EBCM, for the automated bleed to work properly.
The sole purpose of the automated bleed, is to move non aerated fluid from the master cylinder through the
master, lines to the EBCM, the solenoids, and the passages in the EBCM. If there is ANY air in the master,
or the lines to the EBCM, it totally defeats the purpose of the automated bleed.
After the automated bleed, each wheel MUST be bled. This can take some time because the air expelled
into the steel brake lines during the automated bleed, needs to travel through the lines, and exit the bleeders.
It may be necessary to perform the complete automated bleed procedure a few times to remove all of the air.
Keep in mind, that the "old school" bleed procedure of pump, hold, and open the bleeder,
causes more problems on this system, and should not be used. The key to successfully bleeding this
system is to be patient, and no short cuts.
.
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