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Brake bleeding problems

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Old 02-23-2019, 02:17 PM
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Default Brake bleeding problems

I have a 2003 zr2 blazer, that I changed the front brake lines from the abs module to the hoses at the calipers. I've been trying to bleed the system , with no luck. Any help would be appreciated .
 
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Old 02-23-2019, 02:37 PM
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Have you tried gravity bleeding? I believe gravity bleeding is one of the few ways to get air out of the ABS box. But, if you did not get any air into the ABS system and no other bleeding works, could you still have a bad connection allowing air into the lines?
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:35 AM
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I tried a pressure bleeder, with a little luck, gonna open the bleeders and give it a try. Thanks.
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 10:00 PM
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Found these in other threads researching a similar problem:
Originally Posted by LesMyer View Post
You have air in the ABS system. Computer has a built in bleed procedure, but you have to have a high end scanner to initiate it.
Originally Posted by richphotos View Post
To bleed the ABS module you need a capable bi-directional scan tool to open the valves inside the abs unit to get all the air bubbles out
Also, excuse me while I ask a very stupid question that I can't seem to find a ready answer to: what tool did you use to open the bleeder valves? I spend about an hour with a 10mm wrench trying to get my rear ones open today and all I managed to do was mangle the screw.
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock18 View Post
Found these in other threads researching a similar problem:
...
Also, excuse me while I ask a very stupid question that I can't seem to find a ready answer to: what tool did you use to open the bleeder valves? I spend about an hour with a 10mm wrench trying to get my rear ones open today and all I managed to do was mangle the screw.
I am able to open and close my bleed valves with a box-end wrench although I live in a place where they don't use (much) salt the roads.
 
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by christine_208 View Post
I am able to open and close my bleed valves with a box-end wrench although I live in a place where they don't use (much) salt the roads.
Thanks. For the record it turns out it is indeed a 10mm wrench, mine was just so corroded/welded that it wouldn't turn no matter what wrench/socket/tool I tried. It probably didn't help that I started out using the open end of the wrench either.

The metal of the passenger rear bleeder screw was completely soft too and I wound up rounding it off badly. Fortunately I had the sense to stop mangling it further and go to the store for four new bleeder screws before messing things up to the point where the truck became undriveable, then finally managed to pound a 3/8" socket (which luckily happens to work out to about 9.5mm) over the rounded one and get it out with a ratchet.

I replaced both of the rear bleeder screws but the fronts were fine so I just left them. I'm pretty convinced it's because the fronts had the little rubber caps over the bleeders so they didn't rust as badly, so now I'm looking for the little rubber caps for my new rear bleeders.

EDIT: best deal I could find on rubber caps if you only want a small # instead of bulk was here at NAPA for $1.29/ea. Yes, it's annoying to spend that much for $0.03 cents worth of rubber, but if it saves me this headache in the future it's probably worth that much and it sure couldn't hurt.
 

Last edited by Rock18; 02-26-2019 at 02:08 AM.
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:29 AM
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Taking about stuck bleeders. When I did my lift I had to bleed my brakes after installing the brake line extensions. Eventually had to remove the caliper, put it in my vise, and turn the bleeder out with a pair of vise grips.

I removed the abs module years ago, so conventional bleeding worked for me
 
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:33 PM
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Default Bleeding the brakes

After much research, came up with a pretty good way to bleed the and system. Got a old master cylinder cap, VERY CAREFULLY drilled a hole in the center, and installed a valve stem, the kind that has a nut on the backside. Slowly pressurised the system, to around 15 psi. Bled the brakes, making sure the master cylinder had fluid at all times. Took about 10 minutes, haven't had a problem since. The only drawback might be if you have lines that are getting weak, they will break, but I would rather have it happen in the garage, than along the side of the road somewhere.
 
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Old 04-14-2019, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JAKubricki View Post
After much research, came up with a pretty good way to bleed the and system. Got a old master cylinder cap, VERY CAREFULLY drilled a hole in the center, and installed a valve stem, the kind that has a nut on the backside. Slowly pressurised the system, to around 15 psi. Bled the brakes, making sure the master cylinder had fluid at all times. Took about 10 minutes, haven't had a problem since. The only drawback might be if you have lines that are getting weak, they will break, but I would rather have it happen in the garage, than along the side of the road somewhere.
What year is your Blazer? Does it have ABS brakes?

How fast did the fluid level in the reservoir drop when you had it under pressure?

I would think 15psi is no greater than the pressures withing the system normally. But could there be anything harmed in the ABS system?
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:33 AM
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[QUOTE=christine_208;I would think 15psi is no greater than the pressures withing the system normally. But could there be anything harmed in the ABS system?[/QUOTE]

15 psi is a drop in the bucket for pressures and no where close to pressures a master cylinders will put out. The only problem I can see would be if someone didn't pay attention to fluid levels and had to start over because of no fluid and injecting air instead of brake fluid.
 

Last edited by odat; 04-15-2019 at 01:04 AM.

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