I will give you quick symptoms before I get into the complicated story:

Truck will crank very strongly and never even try to fire.
Removing #1 plug shows it wet with gas.
Pulling #1 plug and putting it to ground shows spark.
OBD II scanner shows that it is not throwing any codes at all.
Truck has 3/4 tank of gas
Fuel Pressure gauge shows ~62psi when pump is running, drops down to 58 or 59 when pump shuts off.

The log story is this....
Over the past few months I have had trouble starting the blazer when I let it sit for more than a few days. It would crank, maybe sputter a few times, then flood big time. If I let it sit for about 8 hours, it would start right up and run fine as long as I did not let it sit for more than 2 days without being started. Searching these forums, I figured out that I probably had a leaking poppet nozzle or FPR in the fuel spider. I replace the fuel spider three days ago with the new style that has the injectors at the end of the hoses.

As soon as I finished the fuel spider install, I crossed my fingers and started the truck. It started up after only a second or two of cranking. I let it run for probably 20 minutes, shut it off for a while, then started it up again and let it run for an additional 10 minutes or so. It ran very smoothly, idled better than it ever has, and revved nicely. I did not take it for a road test because it was late and I just wanted to be done for the day.

The next day I got home from work and went out to start up the truck. That is when my problems started. It would not start at all. It has never even tried to start from this point forward. It just cranks and cranks and cranks.

I have removed and replaced all wiring connections.
I have done a test on the coil with an ohm meter and it appears ok.
I took of my distributor cap and looked around....then put it back together.
Fuel pressure looks good, and I replaced the fuel filter just a few days ago.

I am really at a loss here.
I read somewhere in a thread that if the Ignition Control Module is bad....you will still have spark but it will not be timed properly? This does not really make sense to me...but if that is true, then it could be the ICM.

I pulled a plug wire and did the screwdriver test up against a ground. I would only see spark when I had the screwdriver about 1/16" away from the ground. Is that normal??? Maybe my spark is weak??

I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.

 

OK....I am headed out to get some parts.

Tomorrow I am going to change the plugs, plug wires, dist. cap and rotor, and coil.
I am also going to have my ICM tested if they can do it.

I don't really have much faith in any of these. My cap and rotor are less than a year old. The coil tests good with an ohm meter. The plugs and wires are my only hope, since I have not changed them since buying the truck...but I would not think that they would spontaneously fail completely. The wire between the coil and the distributor cap is probably the only one that could cause my symptoms.

any help or advise is appreciated.

 

Looks like you are doing the diagnosis properly. Have the ICM tested repeatedly (atleast 10 times in rapid succession) to get the unit hot. If it fails on the first try, that is your problem. But heat related issues with the ICM would still allow it to start when its cold.

Does your scan tool have the ability to show you the IGN ADV (ignition advance), IPW (injector pulse width), LTFT (long term fuel trim), STFT (short term fuel trim), or the MAF frequency?

Will the truck run if you dribble gasoline down the throttle body (hint: unplug the MAF sensor if you have the intake duct work off of the throttle body)?

 

This morning I changed the following parts:

Coil
Coil -> Distributor wire
Distributor cap and rotor

I also took off the EGR valve, cleaned it, and replaced the gasket.
I also found that I had forgotten to tighten the rear stud on the throttle body (the one that the plastic nut screws on to that holds the intake on).

After this, the truck started up first try and seems to be running well. I did a pretty long road test and shut it off and restarted multiple times.

I am not sure what part fixed it. If I had to guess, I would say the coil. Honestly I don't care. I am just happy to be running again. I will update this post in about a week with a long-term update.

 

Well, glad you got it fixed. It is possible that the loose TB bolt was a contributing factor. If there was a vacuum leak, especially behind the throttle body, it is highly possible that this was the cause of your no start.