O.K. It happened again. 2003 2wd. Drove great for 45 miles at avgerage speed of 65. Came to stop sign, went to go and nothing. Had to keep
pumping the gas to get it to jerk thru the intersection. Stopped at ATM machine and pulled out into traffic. Would not go through the busiest

intersection in the state of Kentucky. Sat there with flashers on and waved to the nice people who were waving at me while they went around
Shut it off and restarted it. Jerked my way to one more stop and left it running. While is side I could see the antenna bouncing around like it was waving at me also.

The SES light did come on so I limped my way to the nearest Auto Zone and had them check it. Came back with the two codes mentioned above.
while he was also checking my altenator, the engine was on but started to rock back and forth like it was not getting air/fuel.

The manager assured me that with both the codes and the way it was acting up, that the problem was for sure the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

I had just cleaned it last week (not able to get it in half) and it was running better after the cleaning.

What are your opions? I am in the process of moving and need to get out of the house fast, and only have this one vehicle.

Many thanks for your reply....

 

I believe the proper way to check if your MAF sensor is bad is to test it with an OHM meter. If you dont have an OHM meter (mine took a walk), you can always check the effectiveness by d/c'ing the electrical connection to the MAF sensor, and run your truck without it. The PCM should compensate for the lack of MAF sensor, and run...kinda like in a survival mode. IT WILL THROW A CODE...memory doesn't serve me well as to which one. Drive it around the block, and see if your lean situation is taken care of.

Though that wont tell you if your MAF sensor is bad, per se, it will confirm that the problem is the MAF sensor, either being dirty or faulty. Hopefully you didn't damage the platinum while cleaning...good luck! ~Mike

 

Thanks for the reply, Mike. I tried to run it before with the connection disconnected, but it started to stall as soon as I put it in reverse. I have just changed the MAF and will be taking it for a drive as soon as I get my self cleaned up. Want to look decent in case of a breakdown and a good looker stops to help..LOL..

I post an update when I get back. Thanks again...

 

As Crater will soon post, if your car runs bad, then when you disconnect the MAF, - always remove connector with key off-... it runs worse, that means the MAF is most likely good and not the problem.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRIDW0xRmYo

Is a more sophisticated way of testing it. However, it doesnt really test for accuracy. The tap test is a nice thought, though.

 

Well, my MAF looked nothing like that, plus I would not have that tool anyway, but thanks for the video. In regards to results, the first thing I noticed was that the SES light was gone. Started up as usual, and I only drove about four miles but things did seem better. No hesitation upon accelaration. I did have the negative battery disconnected for about four hours while I replaced the MAF and tried to remove the shield protecting the gas tank to check another item out.

I was told that in about 5-7 days I will get another code, probably a oxygen sensor reading
, because if the MAF was bad and I did not take care of the problem, it would cause a dominon effect. I plan on taking it out for another 90 mile drive tmrw and will post an update then.

Thanks to everbody for the help and advice/comments.

 

So.. prove me WRONG! Not the first time.. and if I'm wrong I'll be the first to admit it.

However.. the point remains. The way disconnecting MAF works is that if engine runs worse with it not there, then it's probably not the problem. If it runs better, it is a problem.

Your result is not conclusive because you gave up when it stalled. Did you pull its plug before starting? I understand that you must with this system. With the Ford OBDI, it didnt matter.
- Also about that video, all MAF work pretty much the same way. It has a pulse output. The only thing a regular meter can tell you is if it's alive. I would bet the tap test the guy demonstrated would show up in the ____ - - - - VDC mode.
- ALSO.. in Crater's particular case, tapping it with it running well might have resulted in it having fits, as he described in the AZ visit.


The Domino O2 sensor problem isnt certain, either. If it had been too rich for too long, perhaps.
Too lean? Maybe.. maybe not. I'm thinking you'd burn valves before you destroyed the sensor.

 

The AZ manager assured you the MAF sensor was faulty with those DTC's???? (probably why he works at AZ

Might want to check fuel pressure and leakdown... you've got the symptoms of low fuel pressure and both of those DTC's indicate a lean condition, (which is what happens when fuel pressure is too low). Key on, engine off, fuel pump running, pressure must be 60psi to 66psi and must remain above 55psi for at least 5 minutes after the pump shuts off.

 

Believe me, I did not mean to imply that you were wrong. I was just saying that it SEEMED to run better on the short drive that I took. I have not had a chance to make a long drive to see if that solved my problem, which was stalling, jerking after coming to a stop after a a rather long drive at highway speeds. You have given me good advice in the past and I appreciate that.

I also did a search for this problem and have found many solutions ranging from MAF to a splice pack to a radiator cap.

I am sure to update when I have the chance to take it out and run it hard.