Where is the fuel pump relay located on my 97 Blazer. Here is the story: I started the thing, unhooked the battery because I don't need it at the time (long story), then I tried to connect a seat motor connecter to a seat that came off a different car, and the Blazer just cut-off!!! It stopped working. I didn't even keep the two connectors connected a single second!

I guess that I just burned my fuel pump relay, right? Or could it be something else?

Thanks in advance

 

my guessis that you killed a fuse, wouldn't jump to a fuel relay by any means. Check your fuse panel, and check the connections at the battery. may just be not making full contact

 

I agree. Pluggin' in a different power seat motor wouldn't cause the entire truck to go dead unless it exposed an already weak connection. Check all of your connections and all of your fuses before jumping anything. Did you check the power seat motor with an ohm meter first to see if it was dead?

 

That sound like the wing bone must be connected to the leg bone?? If a seat wiring problem caused something, then a fuse or fusable link is where to check everything first. A relay can quit but I bet the wiring would have to be worked on first. Only one other possible way the fuel pump and a seat wiring error could get together. That would be if you somehow got into the wiring running TO THE PUMP, from the relay.

Yes it runs under the carpet, and could have been exposed near the seat wiring, but I have serious doubts about all that. At least from the way you tell it.

You have to make sure you have power to the relay. A link or fuse may be blown. I dont get how the battery was taken out ??? Was it after it was running? Did you actually remove the battery WHILE it was running? It's theoretically possible but when also working with electrical wires, having electricity on and battery disconnected could have caused al kinds of things.

You didnt hook it back up while running did you? Did you ever see smoke anywhere? My first fuseable link was a big surprise when it went in a puff of smoke.

Cant help with location at the moment. Last one I worked on much older. It was on the drivers side underhood, but near/above fenderwell.

 

Yes, the other day I did but it was fine and nothing happened. Is it bad?

So, no it is not the connection on the battery, I checked it right now.
It is not any fuse (at least the ones on the driver's side of the dash board) either.
I bought a new relay too and it was not that. Although, when I but the new one in and then I hooked up the battery, the Blazer did start but for like 5-10 seconds and then stopped and back the the same thing.

See, when I turn the ignition on, there is no sound from the fuel pump that used to be there. WHY?

Thanks for your time and effort guys!!!

 

Now it is just acting up!!! sometimes the fuel pump would make the pumping sound and sometimes it wouldn't!!! When I touch the wires on the floor where the driver's seat, it would make the sound and start but work for a little bit (10 seconds) and shut off! I don't know if it is the wiring or the relay because I touch that thing too and it would do the weird thing also.

I don't know, I'm confused!!!

 

Pump must be going. Time for a new one.

 

I don' know...

 

If and when the car is ACTUALLY cranking, the pump will continue to pump if the oil pressure fuel control switch is working properly.

Let me say that another way. If you simply turn on your key in a car that is all wired up and NORMAL, you should only hear the pump run for a short time. In other words it is not cranking. The oil pressure fuel switch is a switch that passes electricity TO THE RELAY. There is also a circuit to PRIME the pump and lines, this will stop working after 5-10 seconds. At that point, if you are cranking the motor the other circuit should take over. A complete ckt is fully in effect once you are cranking. BUT ONLY IF YOU HAVE NORMAL OIL PRESSURE. The switch will function and make a complete ckt only if it reaches about 8-15 pounds of oil pressure. The amount of pressure is not known for sure to me, but aftermarket units just like it will function at about those numbers.

HENCE, the question by another poster about "oil"??? Or, put another way, does the motor really have oil pressure or is the pressure switch bad?? I'd get a book and bypass that item if you think the engine is OK.

The hooking and unhooking of the battery is not recommended on computer cars for a simple reason. It may "spike" by a certain small amount the computers main supply. It is a well protected system, but why look for trouble?? The main battery in an automobile is also an essential part of the voltage filter system after the alternator. It helps make the DC true. The condition of an alternator can vary quite a bit. The battery helps regulate matters.

When I touch the wires on the floor where the driver's seat, it would make the sound and start but work for a little bit


So was I right and you are into the fuel pump wires on the floor of the car? Just put them back together and use the system like you should.

OR, are you trying to bypass the whole mess? Ask the right way to do that and I'll end up giving you a ckt that is very similar to the factory one.

 

I would like to piggy back on the above.

You can pull the wirs off the oil pressure sending unit/ oil pressure switch and the truck will run just fine. HOWEVER you just rmoved your low oil safety feature. If your engine is low on oil, you risk buring up a bearing and then a costly rebuild. The oil sneders are part of the fuel pump cuicuit for a reason. No oil and they kill the fuel pump so the engine wont fry.

It sounds to me as if the fuel pump power wire is about to break in half. You may have to pull up some carpet to verify.