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computer compatibility??

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  #11  
Old 03-04-2013, 05:46 PM
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The signal on the blue wire is a pulsed ground signal, in milliseconds, when the engine is cranking or running. Voltage is not an acurate way of checking it. Using a noid light at the injector connector would be a better choice, and watch for blinking while cranking. What you CAN check is voltage on the pink wire at the injector connector, and resistance on the blue wire from the PCM to the injector. The PCM and the injector must be unplugged to test resistance on the blue wire, and it must show less than 5 ohms.
 
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:00 PM
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i mean not to seem over eager here but i dont see the last reply so ill try again. my red lead i hooked to the +battery term. and -lead to the #16 pin on the red connector at PCM . both injector and PCM were plugged in at the time
 
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:03 PM
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sorry now i see it..thank you. and ill b in touch
 
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:12 PM
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Im rather nieve when it comes to electricity so please bare with me, when you say check resistance on blue wire im just hooking my leads up one on each end to be sure its a complete circuit right? and as far as voltage on the pink wire, +lead to pink and ground anywhere right ? i assume should be +- 12 volts?
 
  #15  
Old 03-04-2013, 07:14 PM
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a noid light, is that same as a test light?
 
  #16  
Old 03-04-2013, 07:21 PM
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Testing resistance: both the PCM and the injector connectors must be disconnected. Then measure from one end of the wire to the other. Should be less than 5 ohms.

Testing voltage on the pink wire at the injector harness connector: unplug the injector, red probe to pink wire, black probe to battery negative, should show battery voltage with the key on and cranking.

Noid light is a special type of test light. NOT just a regular bulb. DON'T use a plain old test light at the injector connector, the injector driver in the PCM will probably become toast very quickly.
 
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