Diagnose this slime?
#11
12-21-2018, 03:06 AM
A couple years ago I noticed the inner lip of the inner boot had slipped off. I was able to throw some bearing grease into it (I didn't think to look for and learned only later that the local parts stores had CV joint grease) and put on a large hose clamp. It has stayed in place since. I've checked it a couple times and it has worked really well. The one piece of advice is to install the clamp so that the act of turning the screw is such that it stays on the lip of the boot.
I tried the same thing when the inner lip of the inner boot slipped off on the drivers side. In this case the screw on the hose clamp interfered with the lower end of the bracket that attached to the frame. I could hear it go tick, tick once for every turn of the tire. After struggling with several aftermarket band kits I gave up and installed a new CV axle. The new boots were much more flexible than the OE ones. I think my suspension lift might have contributed to the boots working themselves off.
I would say it is worth trying the hose clamp trick.
I tried the same thing when the inner lip of the inner boot slipped off on the drivers side. In this case the screw on the hose clamp interfered with the lower end of the bracket that attached to the frame. I could hear it go tick, tick once for every turn of the tire. After struggling with several aftermarket band kits I gave up and installed a new CV axle. The new boots were much more flexible than the OE ones. I think my suspension lift might have contributed to the boots working themselves off.
I would say it is worth trying the hose clamp trick.
#12
12-21-2018, 07:04 AM
Had exact same problem with my '02. Never was able to find where the boot was torn...but it was throwing grease out in the same pattern. I think the boot lost its flexibility and seal around the axle shaft. I replaced the left axle shaft and all was fine....for a few months....and then the right one did the same thing...so it got replaced as well.
I suggest going with replacement axles and not wasting time/money on those replacement boots. Grease will come out if there is even the slightest gap or looseness in the clamp. Replacing the axles is not overly difficult, just need to pop out the upper ball joint. The old axle comes out ALOT easier than the new one does going in.
HINT: apply some bearing grease to the clip that goes into the diff to keep it centered. Be prepared to push....make that PUSH!....the axle in to get the clip to seat.
I suggest going with replacement axles and not wasting time/money on those replacement boots. Grease will come out if there is even the slightest gap or looseness in the clamp. Replacing the axles is not overly difficult, just need to pop out the upper ball joint. The old axle comes out ALOT easier than the new one does going in.
HINT: apply some bearing grease to the clip that goes into the diff to keep it centered. Be prepared to push....make that PUSH!....the axle in to get the clip to seat.
#13
12-21-2018, 02:09 PM
****in lol thx
ok right on i didnt know about rock auto.. looks like $71 CAD shipped. not bad at all. most definitely will go this route, thx.
I have a lot of rubber rot in the front end lol.. control arms and upper mounts are cracked, but not completely falling apart. youre talking about the bushings for the lower strut mount?
gotcha.. will definitely try this before I go out and buy a halfshaft from rock auto. All this grease is relatively new, within the last 3 months so fingers crossed its not compromised.
thanks for the tips, will save me from feeling like im breaking the diff to make the cv axle fit lol.
Thanks so much for all the input! I'll go grab a hose clamp and grease today, slap it on and update this thread with that solution, and long term will definitely buy a new half shaft.
Spit boots are just that a royal PIA and good if your in a bind but not for long term use.The seam does not seal well and puckers between bolt points along seam and clamp area. I tried them back in my VW sand rail days
I did check and ya Oreilly's don't ship to Canada or Mexico,
However I did go back to the Rockauto site and it looks like they do, as far as I can see they are under 50 bucks + shipping for a half shaft.
The cheapest route is the boot, if you have not gotten any dirt, water ECT. into the CV unit and if you are able to get the shaft to split into. I've never tried as for the cost I just replace the unit.
If you do just the boot replacement inless they have changed the mixture on the grease for them it's a high lead grease so more or less toxic and darn hard to clean off of skin, clothing, ECT
Also while you are in there digging around look at your shock mounting rubbers it looks like they maybe coming apart. I know all of this is just what you wanted to hear lol
I did check and ya Oreilly's don't ship to Canada or Mexico,
However I did go back to the Rockauto site and it looks like they do, as far as I can see they are under 50 bucks + shipping for a half shaft.
The cheapest route is the boot, if you have not gotten any dirt, water ECT. into the CV unit and if you are able to get the shaft to split into. I've never tried as for the cost I just replace the unit.
If you do just the boot replacement inless they have changed the mixture on the grease for them it's a high lead grease so more or less toxic and darn hard to clean off of skin, clothing, ECT
Also while you are in there digging around look at your shock mounting rubbers it looks like they maybe coming apart. I know all of this is just what you wanted to hear lol
I have a lot of rubber rot in the front end lol.. control arms and upper mounts are cracked, but not completely falling apart. youre talking about the bushings for the lower strut mount?
A couple years ago I noticed the inner lip of the inner boot had slipped off. I was able to throw some bearing grease into it (I didn't think to look for and learned only later that the local parts stores had CV joint grease) and put on a large hose clamp. It has stayed in place since. I've checked it a couple times and it has worked really well. The one piece of advice is to install the clamp so that the act of turning the screw is such that it stays on the lip of the boot.
I tried the same thing when the inner lip of the inner boot slipped off on the drivers side. In this case the screw on the hose clamp interfered with the lower end of the bracket that attached to the frame. I could hear it go tick, tick once for every turn of the tire. After struggling with several aftermarket band kits I gave up and installed a new CV axle. The new boots were much more flexible than the OE ones. I think my suspension lift might have contributed to the boots working themselves off.
I would say it is worth trying the hose clamp trick.
I tried the same thing when the inner lip of the inner boot slipped off on the drivers side. In this case the screw on the hose clamp interfered with the lower end of the bracket that attached to the frame. I could hear it go tick, tick once for every turn of the tire. After struggling with several aftermarket band kits I gave up and installed a new CV axle. The new boots were much more flexible than the OE ones. I think my suspension lift might have contributed to the boots working themselves off.
I would say it is worth trying the hose clamp trick.
Had exact same problem with my '02. Never was able to find where the boot was torn...but it was throwing grease out in the same pattern. I think the boot lost its flexibility and seal around the axle shaft. I replaced the left axle shaft and all was fine....for a few months....and then the right one did the same thing...so it got replaced as well.
I suggest going with replacement axles and not wasting time/money on those replacement boots. Grease will come out if there is even the slightest gap or looseness in the clamp. Replacing the axles is not overly difficult, just need to pop out the upper ball joint. The old axle comes out ALOT easier than the new one does going in.
HINT: apply some bearing grease to the clip that goes into the diff to keep it centered. Be prepared to push....make that PUSH!....the axle in to get the clip to seat.
I suggest going with replacement axles and not wasting time/money on those replacement boots. Grease will come out if there is even the slightest gap or looseness in the clamp. Replacing the axles is not overly difficult, just need to pop out the upper ball joint. The old axle comes out ALOT easier than the new one does going in.
HINT: apply some bearing grease to the clip that goes into the diff to keep it centered. Be prepared to push....make that PUSH!....the axle in to get the clip to seat.
Thanks so much for all the input! I'll go grab a hose clamp and grease today, slap it on and update this thread with that solution, and long term will definitely buy a new half shaft.
#14
12-21-2018, 02:14 PM
I got my CV axles for about 250 for both shipped. I'm in ontario. I'll try and find where I got them from. Changed them the same time I did my lift. Didnt see any problems with the old ones, but I had the cash and did it anyways. And not sure if you addressed it(skipped some replies), but I'm with christine on what looks like brake fluid.
#15
12-21-2018, 03:01 PM
And ditto on how hard it can be to get the new shafts in. Oh Boy! I started to wonder if there was a sizing issue with the new one. Turned out I just had to push harder.
#16
12-21-2018, 03:54 PM
Yup i was talking about the shock/ strut mounting rubber.
Hose clamps work well but install the as thin in width and weight as you can get.
The screw flange adds a few ounces of weight to one side of your half shaft and as stupid as it sounds it will throw it out of balance. even tho they are not really balanced in the first place it will cause a slight unnoticed wobble and thu out time will wear on the splines and bearings,
Think of it as tire that's out of balance and beating you to death as you drive, all they add to balance it out is a few ounces of lead weight.
Hose clamps work well but install the as thin in width and weight as you can get.
The screw flange adds a few ounces of weight to one side of your half shaft and as stupid as it sounds it will throw it out of balance. even tho they are not really balanced in the first place it will cause a slight unnoticed wobble and thu out time will wear on the splines and bearings,
Think of it as tire that's out of balance and beating you to death as you drive, all they add to balance it out is a few ounces of lead weight.
#17
12-21-2018, 04:05 PM
I got my CV axles for about 250 for both shipped. I'm in ontario. I'll try and find where I got them from. Changed them the same time I did my lift. Didnt see any problems with the old ones, but I had the cash and did it anyways. And not sure if you addressed it(skipped some replies), but I'm with christine on what looks like brake fluid.
I just went and checked out the brake line while holding down the pedal (long flashlight & seat trick) and didnt see any leaks in the soft line. see pic. Was raining the day I took the other pics, today its dry.
Yup i was talking about the shock/ strut mounting rubber.
Hose clamps work well but install the as thin in width and weight as you can get.
The screw flange adds a few ounces of weight to one side of your half shaft and as stupid as it sounds it will throw it out of balance. even tho they are not really balanced in the first place it will cause a slight unnoticed wobble and thu out time will wear on the splines and bearings,
Think of it as tire that's out of balance and beating you to death as you drive, all they add to balance it out is a few ounces of lead weight.
Hose clamps work well but install the as thin in width and weight as you can get.
The screw flange adds a few ounces of weight to one side of your half shaft and as stupid as it sounds it will throw it out of balance. even tho they are not really balanced in the first place it will cause a slight unnoticed wobble and thu out time will wear on the splines and bearings,
Think of it as tire that's out of balance and beating you to death as you drive, all they add to balance it out is a few ounces of lead weight.
I took some more pics of the bushings of my control arms and strut. Someone tell me if my control arms are cool or not lol
#19
12-21-2018, 04:33 PM
I've seen / run worse they will prob get by for awhile ' but the shock/strut upper rubber looks like it's missing and will let the shock beat around in it's mount
Any clicking noises will be heard when the ball bearings in the CV dry out and rattle in the cage they ride in, or the CV is totally shot
Any clicking noises will be heard when the ball bearings in the CV dry out and rattle in the cage they ride in, or the CV is totally shot
Last edited by odat; 12-21-2018 at 04:39 PM.
#20
12-21-2018, 05:13 PM
i dont know what the missing rubber is supposed to look like. I see the two rubber bushings holding the strut to the mount, via the bolt. Where is the missing rubber supposed to be? I dont have any clunking or rattling, especially going over bumps