I'm thinking about buying a 95 Blazer LT in which the owner thinks it has a bad fuel pump. He says that it will start with starter fluid. I was wondering if Blazers have 2 speed fuel pumps controlled by a resistor, as that is what my 98 GTP has and when the resistor went bad it would start then shut off after a few seconds. Is there anything else that controls the fuel pump? I read there is a relay in the glove box, but how could I check if it's bad? Autozones website shows that a fuel pump is $79 and it also says to replace the Fuel Strainer at the same time, where is the Strainer located? How hard is it to remove the tank and replace the pump? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The fuel pump is controlled by a relay. The relay should be under the hood, not in the glove box. There should also be a test wire under the hood. Get a Haynes/Chilton manual, they will walk you through the test procedures.

Replacing the fuel pump isn't a quick task. I can give you plenty of tips and pointers on how to do it, if your interested.
The strainer attaches to the end of the fuel pump and both go in the gas tank. Yes get the strainer. It stops chunks of debris from getting into your fuel pump and ruining it. Well worth the couple of bucks they cost.

 

Hanr, any tips would be appreciated. I'm about to go through with a fuel pump replacement.

I replaced one on a jeep last year. Except for the retaining ring being a huge pain to remove, it was relatively straight forward.

I know the basics from reading the manual, but is there anything unusual I should be on the lookout for?

 

They are pretty straight forward to replace.

Some tips.
Gas weighs roughly 8 pounds per gallon. 5 gallons is 40 pounds plus tank weight. Not easy to manuver while on your back, use a jack.
Your tank should be mounted under the passengers seat on the drivers side. If its mounted under the back end let me know, I have additional tips for them.
My 2000 had 6 hoses connected and 2 wiring harnesses connected to it.
2 hoses (from gas cap) used screw type clamps 5/16" socket or nut driver.
1 hose (front of tank by fuel filter, hidden by torsion bar cross brace) had a pinch type clamp. I managed to squeeze mine with my fingers, most use pliers.
3 hoses (attached to fuel pump) are slide on clips. Hardest for me to take off and easiest to put back on. You have to pinch the inner piece to get the socket off. Look at the output side of your fuel filter, mine was the same way. At least the fuel filter was visible. I use white out and marked 2 of the hoses so I know where they go. Find out after I get the tank out that each hose is a different size so my markings meant little. Except when I put it back together. I still couldn't see the top of the tank and I used the markings and feel to get the rigth hose on the right fitting. Might have been able to see them if I was able to jack the truck up. Sloped driveway so I couldn't jack it up safely. I have like 1/2" clearance between my chest and the frame while lying flat on the ground.
The 2 wire harnesses connect to the fuel pump.

Use a jack to hold the tank in place and remove the bolts (15mm deepwell) that hold the tank in place. Lower the jack to access the hoses on top.
Spray PB Blaster ( or your favorite rust eater, not WD-40) on the bolts to free them.
The tank straps are bolted in place by the driveshaft, and hooked in place on the frame. Lift up and pull out to unhook from frame.

Clean all the crap off the top of the tank before you remove the old fuel pump.
My ring came off pretty easy compared to the one in the '87. I have a screwdriver with a broken tip I used to pound it off. That and a hammer got it moving, move the locking tab out of the way. My locking tab was spring loaded plastic. Much better then the old style.

Replace the rubber gasket (should come with pump and slides around the pump) and fuel filter when you replace the fuel pump.

Don't forget the clips on the old fuel pump.
Spray WD-40 on all the rubber hoses, helps to soften them so they slide off and on easier. Next to impossible to get them off and on dry.

Yours might be slightly different. Although the chilton/haynes manual is the same for 95 and up.

In all honesty it took me about 1hr and 15 minutes to drop the tank, and another hour to put in back in. Some of those tips I had to figure out on my own. [:@]