Replacing Hinge Pins On A Chevy Blazer

Replacing A GM Door Hinge Detent Roller

 

I went a good year without a door spring before I finally bought a tool to do it, definitely a must have.

 

That how-to does not show a bushing being placed where I have the egged hole in the uppermost hinge attached to the door... (In the picture I posted)

 

The flange on the upper bushing goes between the body and the door halves of the hinge. The weight of the door is on the flange. Simple job with one person, 20 minutes max, and no worry of scratching the door or the fender. Toss a ratchet strap over a roof truss, (or tree limb loop it through the open window, tighten the ratchet to remove the weight of the door from the hinges. Slide the strap to find the balance point and the door will hang by itself, out of your way.

The flange on the lower bushing also goes between the hinge halves. All of the bronze bushings are pressed into the body half of the hinge. They are very brittle, beating on them with a hammer will shatter them. Best to make a press using a bolt, nut, and some washers, and press the bushings into the hinge. If they don't press in, or fall out, you need a new hinge.

Lube them once a month and they'll last darn near forever. Neglect them and you'll need a hinge, guaranteed, (they're welded on, and they're not cheap).

 

What is best to lube them with cap?

 

Here is a video I made of the hinge moving. There is play in the hinge not in the bushings. Looks to me like I have a worn out hinge.



Sorry the quality sucks, I have no idea why my iPhone took such a **** video....

 

Richard, Kentucky grease works, but wheel bearing grease should be used

v8vette, Looks like the upper bushing is upside down. The flange on the bushing needs to be between the body half of the hinge, and the door half of the hinge. The door half of the hinge is done, stick a fork in it.

EDIT: Usually it's the upper hole in the body half of the hinge that wears out.

 

So how do I go about repairing the egged upper hinge? Welding and re-drilling?

 

Some members have mig welded the hole closed, or partially closed, and re-drilled from the bottom up, (using the lower hole as a "guide"). If you fill in only the side that is elongated, you at least know where part of the hole "should" be, when drilling. I have brazed and mig welded them in the past, and had better luck with braze due to it being softer than mig when it comes to drilling. The drill bit tends to "walk" on mig, but not on braze. The braze holds up just fine, as long as you keep the bushing lubed. Either way you decide to do it, the upper hole has to be drilled perfectly inline with the lower hole, or you'll have problems.

 

Sounds like a pain haha. Anyway to replace the hinge itself?