No never knocked also had good oil pressure. everything was normal.

 

I'm not sure I would rush into a total rebuild if there was no evidence of lower engine damage. I had a pushrod break through a rocker once and wreak temporary havoc. I replaced the lifter, pushrod and rocker arm and put another Gozillion miles on the car. I didn't crash a valve but it was still pretty unruly when it happened. Would you take the engine out or rebuild in place?

George

 

I would like to leave the engine in if i could. I was looking at the oil pan and what i can see i think i have to remove the axle for the 4x4 to take the pan off. unless i can get the engine high enough to pull the oil pan. Being the valve was bent i would like to pull that piston. might as well run all new. Looking online you can pretty much get all new parts for under $300.00 including gaskets with a 12000 mile warranty or 12 months.

 

In-vehicle bottom end repairs seldom work out as planned, especially for the novice. Unless you can see obvious damage to the piston, I would recommend fixing the one valve and replacing the rocker arm and pushrod before getting into the bottom end. Don't forget to remove and inspect the lifter too. Then if bottom end repairs are ultimately necessary, pull the engine and get it on a stand where it can actually be worked on. Good luck!

 

You can buy a rebuilt Goodwrench engine with 3 year/100K warranty for less than what it will cost you to do a proper rebuild. $300 I don't think so. Try $2000+ for parts and machine work to do it right.

I would try the cheap fix first. Then if the bottom end has problems get a different engine. Used if your funds are tight. Rebuilt if you can afford it.

 

 

Les your right on getting a new engine. I just like to Rebuilding them. I also go Through engine parts only But i have a commercial account through them and got it cheaper the reg price is $ 359.32 .With out lifters. If you don't Have a commercial account. And it comes with a warranty. I was able to get the engine Rebuild kit with lifters push rods and rockers arms for $ 265.50 Here is the website If any wants to check it out. www.enginepartsonly.com Here is both kits


https://www.enginepartsonly.com/2000...t-ek3129am-17/




https://www.enginepartsonly.com/2000...kit-ek3129-71/

 

If You don't plan to replace the:
- head, one of Your weakest points are the valve liners, that may be already worn on a rebuild engine
- block, then You may need to have the cylinders honed to an oversize, that isn't free either (my place $50 per cylinder bore)
I agree with Les and George. Try out cheap fix first.
I do have one Vortec in my garage that I am not intending to rebuild due to the total cost. I would need a crankshaft ($300) and honing the cylinders bores ($300). Yet the set You have mentioned another $300. With shipping costs it's already $1k and I am not aware of the valve liners condition yet. Price may go beyond $1k even further. Since I got a 75k miles engine for $800 I did not even hesitate, and it works like a charm. And, despite I enjoy doing car job, I would choose that over again if i had to.
Besides, if You want to order the kit, You must have the engine measured, to know what oversize You actually need for what. IDK how it's in Your place, but at mine, it is mandatory to bring the engine parts separated for measurements: block/camshaft/crankshaft/heads. That means You have to purchase a new bolt set (TTY) and can't do it without extracting the engine out of th engine bay...
Cheers, Mike

 

It's very easy to exceed $1000 for machine work. Work on the heads really adds up especially fast! Align bore, resize 6 rods and hang 6 pistons, hot tank engine, replace cam and balance shaft bearings, bore and hone cylinders, replace valve guides (most likely 6 or more), grind other valves and all valve seats, surface heads (certainly), deck block (maybe), grind crankshaft, install new freeze/oil plug set in, New camshaft is around $300. With premium parts, you will be over $2000. I know very well as I have been there.

The warranty OP describes will be at best replacement of the failed part itself - no labor. For example, if a rod bearing goes out he will get a new rod bearing set - nothing more. He makes it sound like he has already bought the parts and is itching to tear into the bottom end before trying the cheap fix. IMHO that will be a mistake.

 

Good Morning Everyone. Just waiting on my brother to call sense he owns the machine shop. Him and i was talking over the weekend. Thinking about dropping a Diesel engine in it. custom Building.If i do that i am going to go manual transmission. It can be done between his shop and mine. But a lot of time and work and money. i do have a 2001 Dodge Dakota converted in a stranded Trans with a Cummins Diesel along with my rollback. But if i go with a diesel motor i would like to stick with a Chevy Engine the new Colorado has a 2.8 liter Duramax Turbo diesel. We can custom build to fit.