Hey all, sorry this isnt in the right forum, I couldn't seem to find the create thread link in general tech.

Anyway, I know there are some posts about motor mounts on here but none that really helped me...

How difficult is it to pull the front differential if you did this (drivers side mount) the "correct" (Haynes) way? Do you actually need fully remove it or could you just leave the axles hooked up, remove driveshaft and mounting bolts and ratchet it just enough out of the way?

Anyone on here do it the "other" way of removing the air box and disconnecting the steering linkage (also, for that, do you just remove the one bolt visible and use a pry bar to separate it from the pitman arm? Mine felt very stuck) and using a combination of flex joints to get at all the bolts? It doesnt look like very many people were able to FULLY complete the job this way without modifying the mount.

Also, this is for a bone stock truck.... someone doing this with a 4 inch lift kit and offering advice doesnt help me.

How risky is it for me to get through the winter with only 1 mount (probably also very old and ****ty) just normal driving a few miles to work and back?

Thanks!

 

Dropping the front diff is gonna require removing both steering knuckles and lower control arms. Not a big job, can be done in a few hours if you're familiar with the front end. Don't mess with the uppers, or else you'll have to get it aligned afterwards

Just saw your edit lol. I have a 6" lift, but dropping the diff is the same either way.

 

Do you have to remove the lower control arms to get the diff to fit or something? What if I got the knuckles off by just undoing the ball joints if I plan to be doing that anyway? Then I could get the axles out.

I haven't really looked down there, but I'm wondering if it may be possible to get to the mount without fully removing (or disassembling) the diff. Just ratcheting it towards the front a few inches/however much itll move do you can access the bolts.

I wish I could find a picture of a fully assembled mount in the engine to see how its mounted/where all the bolts are. I pulled the air box yesterday but I couldn't really tell. I also couldn't get the steering linkage apart even with some gentle persuasion from a pry bar and didnt want to get myself into something I wasnt prepared for.

There aren't really any good YT videos about this process.

 

Even taking the cv axles off, the flanges they bolt to on the diff is just enough wider that they won't fit between the lower arms. At least on my 95 with bolt on cvs, anyway.

I was actually able to drop it with the lower arms intact. But I cheated, and took off the passenger side axle tube. Going back, I had already sealed up the tube, and didn't want to take it back apart, and try to rtv it with the diff in place. So dropping the control arms was the only way to fit it

If you don't mind partially assembling the diff while it's in the truck, it's possible. I've actually R&R'ed the passenger axle tube with the diff in the truck before, not super difficult, but it will be tricky to adequately clean and seal the molting surface. There's no gasket, just use the rtv of your choosing

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Ah, now I see, yeah this is for a 99, so no bolt on CV's.

 

You might be able to slide it in between the lower arms, then. Not sure of the width differences, if any, between the different styles.

If you do drop the diff, consider replacing the gaskets on the remote oil filter housing, as well. It'll never be easier to get to than it is with the diff out of the way

 

I have only had this truck since November as a winter beater (although its actually the most solid $1000 vehicle I've ever seen) so I am unsure of its mechanical history, but what i can say is that it doesnt drip or seem to burn a drop of oil, however the lower and middle of the engine is completely coated in oil... so either the previous owners had it oil sprayed, or there was an oil leak that has been repaired. Maybe it was that.

 

Oil sprayed? Is that a thing people do up north to combat rust or something? Lol

If you aren't leaking anywhere, I wouldn't mess with it. Just be sure it's not leaking, if you ever have to do the oil lines and adapter gaskets, you'll be wishing the diff was out lol

 

Lmao, it absolutely is a thing people do. Put your vehicle on a lift and blast the entire bottom of it with bar and chain oil (or Fluid Film). It makes a mess, but at least your truck will last longer than 10 years before its in the crusher (or at least it SHOULD be... no safety inspections in my state so people drive around until the frame cracks in half).

Looking up prices for new oil lines and seals it really isnt that bad so maybe I'll just do it anyway. But then it becomes the age old question of "where do you stop?"... before you know it the whole engine and front suspension are torn apart.

 

Glad we don't have rust problems like that here. Sounds awful lol.

I've never had a problem with other oil leaks, fwiw. Only the remote lines.