Okay, what I did was change the drivers side pads only because I was running out of time and I couldn't get the passenger side caliper bolts out. Anywho, first thing I did was siphon out some of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder. I took the bolts out of the drivers side caliper and disconnected the brake line and let it drain out all the old brake fluid. I then depressed the pistons enough to get the caliper off the holder. I then took out the old pads and put in the new ones. I then put the caliper back on the rotor, reconnected the brake line, put everything back the way it was when I started. I put the tire back on and undid the jack. I then put new brake fluid into the master cylinder. Now, the problem. I went go to work this morning and neither one of my front brakes are working. The thing I don't get is that I did not even get the passenger side caliper off and that one doesn't work either. Please help. I don't really want to take it to a garage and pay someone else. I tried to save myself some money by doing it myself and this is what I get. I probably didn't do a step and when I find out what it is, I'm going to feel like an idiot. PLEASE HELP ME!!!! I need my truck as it is my only car. I am driving my parents minivan to boot. I hate that thing. I am going to run into Pep Boys after work as it is across the street.

 

You should not have messed with the brake fluid lines, you didn't need to. To change the brake pads, you simply undo the caliper bolts, wiggle the caliper off of the rotor, remove the old pads, depress the caliper piston back into the caliper (leave the old inner pad in place as a surface to press against until the piston is driven back in (TIP)), push the two spring loaded guides that the caliper bolts pass through back in a bit, insert the new pads into place and wiggle the whole caliper back onto the rotor, insert the caliper bolts and tighten. NOTICE, nowhere did I mention doing anything with the brake fluid line. Think this through...as the brake pads wear out, the fluid level in the reservoir drops as the caliper piston gets pushed out of the caliper. By pushing the piston back into the caliper, you are pushing the fluid back into the reservoir. If you haven't added any additional brake fluid, you shouldn't overflow the brake reservoir by pushing the pistons back into the calipers.

You need to bleed the air out of the brake lines. Go to PepBoys, buy a brake bleeder kit, buy brake fluid, raise each corner of vehicle, remove tire, attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw, fill catch bottle with clean fluid, open brake fluid reservoir, fill to "FILL" line, open bleeder screw, have helper press on brake pedal slowly until air bubbles stop coming out of brake line (keep eye on brake fluid level in reservoir), close bleeder screw, replace tire, drop vehicle, repeat on remaining tires.

Fluid does not compress, air does. Your brakes don't work because you are compressing air in the brake lines instead of having only pure fluid in them.

You can always save yourself a lot of time, money and aggravation if you do your research BEFORE you do a job. Buy a Haynes manual and read the appropriate section before you tear into a job. Information is a powerful tool. Good Luck.

A few other tips: Don't ever let the caliper hang by the brake hose, always support the caliper either in your hand or hang it from a wire hook (old coat hanger makes a nice cheap hook). Sometimes the caliper bolts are a beast to get out. If yours are stuck you can grab the end with a vise grip and beat it out of there (try penetrating oil before taking drastic measure though). This usually destroys the bolt head so make sure you have new caliper bolts BEFORE destroying the old one(s). I always use anti-squeek lube between the inner pad and the caliper piston just for good measure and I always use Never-Seize on the caliper bolt threads (so you don't have to beat them out the next time..hint,hint,hint). A little white lithium grease on the caliper bolt shafts never hurts either.

 

Wait, you disconnected the brake lines and did not bleed the brakes afterwords??? Your lines are probably filled with air which is NOT good. Air is compressible, brake fluid is not (in the convensional sense). You need to get all of the air out of the lines. If the master cylinder was dry when you got around to filling it back up, then you have to bleed each wheel separately.

You may want a friend to help out with this. Start at the back passenger wheel. Loosen the bleeders before you start to make sure that you can get them loose, but retighten them to seal them back up. Have a friend pump up the brake pedal until it becomes solid and hold the brake pedal down, then open the bleeder and allow the fluid out. Close the bleeder, then tell your friend to pump the brakes back up. Do this until you get new/clean brake fluid out of the bleeder, refilling the master cylinder every 3-4 bleeder opening cycles. Repeat on the driver's rear, then passenger front, then driver's front. This will get fresh fluid throughout the entire braking system.

Next time you change your brakes, just press the caliper piston back in without disconnecting the brake line! You may have to remove a bit of fluid from the master cylinder if it was topped off at any time between brake changes, but if it hasn't, then it should be good to go.

*EDIT* Ha. Junk beat me to it. Stupid conference call/webex!!

 

Allright. Thanks guys. I'll hit pepboys after work and do this over the weekend after work. It's kind of good that I did this on the weekend. I can use my parents car to get to work. Oh well, at least I didn't really break anything that will cost me an arm and a leg. I did do some research. I actually made a post about it. It's a learning process for me. I might screw it up and have to fix it again, but at least it will get done right. Thanks for the help.

*UPDATE* I tried to do this, but I sliced a finger pretty good a work today and it stings every time I bend my middle finger. I am just going to take it to a garage and have them fix it. I can't risk injuring myself more than I already am.

 

Too bad im no where close to ya, else i would offer a helping hand. Though i do suppose that you could wear a set of rubber gloves or mechanics gloves to protect your finger so ya dont get brake fluid on it and then just tough out the pain. Or do the ultra cheap method and wrap the wound in gauze and electrical tape, works pretty slick.

 

I wish you were closer. I am kind of hard up for cash right now and I have to pay some bills. I hope I can make the payments. It always seems like everything always hits me at the same time. I hate that. I tried to bleed the brakes last night, but I did more bleeding than the brakes.

 

*UPDATE* While I was at work today, my father went down to the local garage we usually have our work done at and talked to the guy who usually works on our cars. My father told him the situation and the wrecker followed him back to our house and brought the truck back with him. I got lucky and they squeezed me in between appointments this morning. The problem was actually not air in the lines. The lines were fine according to the mechanic. So, it's not my fault (woohoo!). The pads that I put on the drivers side were faulty and this cause the brakes to not work. The pads actually peeled apart and the metal tab on the back side bent. I hope I can get my money back from pep-boys. They are pro-stop ceramic brake pads. I used the same ones on my cavalier and had no problem. They put new pads in and now everything work great. I figured since it was there, I might as well have an oil change done before the winter. They told me that a radiator flush was recommended for my future. I have a good friend of mine that works at Jiffy Lube and he can do it for me for a deal (sweet!). Anywho, 189 dollars later, my truck is driveable again!

Oh, and by the way, my finger is starting to heal in case anyone is wondering lol. I cut it changing the roll of labels in the deli scale at work. There is a spool for the return roll after the labels are used. To get this spool out, there is a little metal pull tab. It's kinda the same material as a paperclip, only a little stronger. I pulled on it and one of the sides gave way and as my hand slipped, slice! About 6 or 7 bandages and a ton of neosporin later, I am doing good. The only thing that sucks is this finger is on my right hand which is my bowling hand and I can't bowl until it heals. I am on a league on fiday nights at the local bowling alley.

 

whats your average? you any good? what kinda ***** you got? i got a 210 average

 

My average usually stays around 170. I threw a 244 last friday. I am pretty good if I can find my spot. The lanes I bowl at sometimes get kind of goofy with the oil. One of my teammates right now has a 230 average. I'll have to find out what my average is next week after the 244. I just wish that my other two games were better. I threw a 144 and a 145. Not too bad but I would've liked better. I have two *****. My hook ball is a Storm and my 10 pin ball is a Ebonite. I bowl with a Ebonite bowling glove that gives me extra hook. I usually hook from about 5 boards in from the left since I am right handed. Depending on the oil (I have no comma button-work computer) I sometimes have to hook till about the 3rd to last board to hit the pocket. I'm hoping to get back on the lanes this friday but I don't know how my finger is going to be.