HELP: How to fix check engine light failure?
#1
HELP: How to fix check engine light failure?
Hello,
When i tried to get an emmissions test, it failed due to the "Check Engine" light not coming on, when the key is turned to the "on" position. When i took my vehicle to my dad's trusted body shop, they told me that basically, i need to replace the whole dash area that houses the gauges, etc. It is part number 599-357, seen here:
So, my question is, is all that necessary? Seems like the problem could be fixed by just replacing the bulb. But the body shop also told me that it is part of a circuit board, so i guess if one light goes out, this part must be purchased and installed??
Any help and/or advice is GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks
When i tried to get an emmissions test, it failed due to the "Check Engine" light not coming on, when the key is turned to the "on" position. When i took my vehicle to my dad's trusted body shop, they told me that basically, i need to replace the whole dash area that houses the gauges, etc. It is part number 599-357, seen here:
So, my question is, is all that necessary? Seems like the problem could be fixed by just replacing the bulb. But the body shop also told me that it is part of a circuit board, so i guess if one light goes out, this part must be purchased and installed??
Any help and/or advice is GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks
#4
Thanks for the reply's guys i do appreciate it!
^^Haha, true! Never thought of it like that...as soon as this storm clears i'll begin: Operation Dash Dismantle...lol
If anybody else has knowledge to add, feel free to do so!
Thx again...
If anybody else has knowledge to add, feel free to do so!
Thx again...
#5
The instrument cluster removal is quite easy;
Remove the 4x4 switch assembly if 4wd,
Remove the front dash trim by gently pulling it away from the dash. Remove electrical connectors from headlights, fog lites, etc.
May have to lower the steering column for clearance which requires the lower trim panel to be removed.
There are four screws holding the cluster in place and one electrical connector. Remove screws, lift cluster, remove electrical connector and remove cluster.
Use a flashlight and shine onto the cluster to locate the Check Engine symbol and find which bulb it is, twist bulb to remove.
Swap bulbs with another one in the cluster.
Reconnect electrical connector, turn ignition key to ON, and see if Check Engine symbol lites-up. If so then replace with new bulb and re-assemble.
If not, then need to carefully examine the cluster flex circuit for a break. Might be able to fix it....but get to this point and come back and let us know.
Remove the 4x4 switch assembly if 4wd,
Remove the front dash trim by gently pulling it away from the dash. Remove electrical connectors from headlights, fog lites, etc.
May have to lower the steering column for clearance which requires the lower trim panel to be removed.
There are four screws holding the cluster in place and one electrical connector. Remove screws, lift cluster, remove electrical connector and remove cluster.
Use a flashlight and shine onto the cluster to locate the Check Engine symbol and find which bulb it is, twist bulb to remove.
Swap bulbs with another one in the cluster.
Reconnect electrical connector, turn ignition key to ON, and see if Check Engine symbol lites-up. If so then replace with new bulb and re-assemble.
If not, then need to carefully examine the cluster flex circuit for a break. Might be able to fix it....but get to this point and come back and let us know.
#6
But, i went to one of those junkyard/pull-a-part places, and found a replacement for $40, much better than $170+ for a new one. Installation was just as easy as the removal.
I will be taking it back to do the emmissions again today or tomorrow, but shouldn't be a problem - the service engine light functions perfectly now.
Thanks peeps for the advice!
#7
A quick note/question:
I did have to exchange the odometer, which was a little bit of a pain. But, had i not, couldn't i have just left it on, and effectively shaved off 30k+ miles (in this instance) ??
Just wondering...
I did have to exchange the odometer, which was a little bit of a pain. But, had i not, couldn't i have just left it on, and effectively shaved off 30k+ miles (in this instance) ??
Just wondering...
#8
The CEL lamp was soldered-in...!!....I guess I just did not pay any attention to this the last time I had the cluster out....which was probably a year ago.
But odd....in a 2003 the odometer is electronic, not mechanical....so the mileage is stored in the Body Control Module (BCM)....so changing the cluster should have no effect since it is just the display.
OR am I completely off here?
And yeah....Service Engine Soon lite, not Check Engine lite
But odd....in a 2003 the odometer is electronic, not mechanical....so the mileage is stored in the Body Control Module (BCM)....so changing the cluster should have no effect since it is just the display.
OR am I completely off here?
And yeah....Service Engine Soon lite, not Check Engine lite
#9
The CEL lamp was soldered-in...!!....I guess I just did not pay any attention to this the last time I had the cluster out....which was probably a year ago.
But odd....in a 2003 the odometer is electronic, not mechanical....so the mileage is stored in the Body Control Module (BCM)....so changing the cluster should have no effect since it is just the display.
OR am I completely off here?
And yeah....Service Engine Soon lite, not Check Engine lite
But odd....in a 2003 the odometer is electronic, not mechanical....so the mileage is stored in the Body Control Module (BCM)....so changing the cluster should have no effect since it is just the display.
OR am I completely off here?
And yeah....Service Engine Soon lite, not Check Engine lite
But im not sure either, i tried switching both clusters, and each time it displays different mileage #'s
Here is the left side of the circuit board, with the arrow showing the service engine bulb. I took 2 more pics, just to show the difference between soldered bulbs and removable ones:
EDIT: To add, i just got back from the emissions test AND tag office. Both were a breeze!
Last edited by ChevyBlazer4uHaters; 04-09-2014 at 04:45 PM.
#10
I bet they soldered it to keep people from yanking it out and trying to pass it off as a good running truck! I know the abs light and brake warning light are removable on my '95, I always figured all the bulbs were like that.