My AC compressor recently took a crap on my 96 Blazer that I use for a winter car only, so I had no use for AC in the truck. The clutch or bearing locked up so the compressor would get red hot and smoke. I just wanted the cheapest and easiest way to get the truck to run right, whether it had AC or not.

After not getting too many answers on this site I dug around the internet to figure out that the easiest/cheapest solution is to use a non AC serpentine belt and install the non AC idler.

I figured I'd post the how to on here in case anyone needs to do this in the future.

You need AC Delco PN: 12580772 and I used Gates PN: K060870







Where to install pulley:


Installed pulley and left AC compressor in place:


All installed:


Car runs like a dream again, but has no AC. In my honest opinion, however, AC is for geeks!

 

BTW; parts cost about $50 from Amazon. Would have been even cheaper if I went with a non-AC Delco pulley, but I'm a sucker for OEM parts.

 

Dorman 34174. $33 on Amazon, no need to install the idler pulley, and use your original belt.

 

I didn't want to deal with evacuating the AC lines or anything.....

 

Howdy!

Pretty much same here, but my compressor locked up on the freeway which lead to a small fire and tow home. Anyway, I had the same problem where despite being very clear about wanting to leave the compressor in place, people kept referencing the bypass pulley which requires removing the compressor.

I ended up removing the fire-damaged clutch, replacing the fire-damaged compressor pulley, and disconnecting the compressor's electrical connectors. Been driving like this for over a year with no issues. Cost me 40$, but only b/c I had to replace the compressor pulley. Other than that it only cost my time and gas to rent/return loaner tools and do the job.

Here's a link to a post I made. Sorry I didn't see your original post on the subject or I would have replied with the link.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...c-w-4wd-87461/

 

Hello. So I have the same issue where my AC compressor has locked up and I am looking to bypass it. I have just ordered the parts you referenced in order to bypass the compressor while still leaving it installed (thanks a ton for providing specific part numbers). I am just curious about whether anything else needs to be done in order to ensure proper operation. I understand that the new pulley is installed underneath the compressor and the new belt is routed there instead of to the compressor. Once this is all done will it be necessary to disconnect anything else from the compressor or can it be left as is. Also, with the compressor no longer connected to the serpentine belt what would happen if I tried to use the AC. My AC hasn't worked for as long as I had the car but I am wondering if the defogging would still work without the serpentine belt connected. I guess I'm just curious how the belt affects the operation of the AC compressor. Thank you for this post. It has been extremely useful in helping me find the parts needed to get me back on the road again. Hopefully I will be able to install these parts without a hitch although I am uncertain with my capabilities in regards to the actual routing of the serpentine belt. I am very open to suggestions if there is any help to be offered. What specific tools will I be needing to accomplish this fix? Thanks!

 

Before installing the bypass bracket, the refrigerant must be drained, and compressor must be removed. The bypass bracket has a pulley in the same place that the compressor pulley would be, if it were still mounted on the engine.

 

Good to see you back!

 

The Hook has returned!

 

I am attempting the same procedure as the original poster. So I will not need to take out the compressor. I'm simply wondering if anything will need to happen to the compressor at all. And I'm curious how it would operate if I were to attempt to use the AC. Thanks for such a quick response nonetheless.