1995 Blazer LT, AC Pulley on passenger side, vin has GNDTWXS letters.

A series of unfortunate events:

1. Serpentine belt broke all of a sudden. No prior issues.
2. Car started, limped it to safety without overheating.
3. Car would only crank, no start for day 1 until battery was dead. Jump starts were the same. No reversed polarity in any of the jumps. I did find a wiring connection with a green and a black wire that was separated from its female companion and I have no idea where it goes. It was from the engine cluster just behind the AC pulley. (See Picture)
https://goo.gl/photos/FzaW73xVCVd1e4nV7
4. Car wouldn't even crank despite new battery & jumping attempts. I could hear the fuel pump prime, but battery would die incredibly fast. +/- 1 Volt per hr when idle, or 2 start attempts. No more cranking, no more ability to test spark.
5. Hooked up to another known good battery, and the fuel pump would engage repeatedly or until it ran out of juice in the charged battery.
6. Hooked up to another known good battery, everything seems energized, but the guages other than Battery do not work...most fall down to bottom levels.
7. Now when i try to start EVERYTHING shuts down. 1/2 a click sound them boom. No lights/sounds/anything. Complete blackout.

Any ideas?


Long time listener, first time caller. Thanks folks! Cheers!
Jam

 

Welcome to the Blazer forum JP. The green and black wires should connect to the AC clutch at the top front of the unit just behind the pulley. I can't access your picture, so I could be wrong about this).

Meanwhile, you might have an intermittent 'dead' short in regard to the batt drain issue. The pos. batt terminal should have at least one 8-10 gauge wire (along with the heavy starter cable) that runs to the alternator with any other wires running to an under hood fuse/connector block (if so equipped). This wire, or wires, are directly in line with the serp. belt and, as such, could have taken a hit when the belt let-go. These wires are also susceptible to corrosion and wear due to how they are routed (down along the battery and then over to the engine).

This 8-10 gauge wire, or wires, should have a black plastic barrel shaped fuseable link built into them. Make sure that these wires aren't grounding out in any way and that you have continuity through the fuseable links.

You will, of course, need a multimeter (or, at the very least, a 12 volt test light) along with an engine wiring diagram (as found in most service manuals). Just make sure that you do not use a 12 volt test light on any feed-back computer related circuits. A 12 volt LED test light might be safe for such testing tho. However, a modern 10 mega ohm impedance digital multimeter is the safest device to use. Such meters can run from $6 USD on up to several hundred bucks (H*rbor Fr*ight Tools offer an entry level meter for free with coupon from time to time).

Also make double-sure that the replacement serp. belt is routed exactly as shown on the 'belt map' sticker/label found under the hood.