I have just gotten a new 2003 4WD Blazer LS which I am really enjoying driving. It is my first 4 X 4 and first truck. I have owned several GM RWD cars in the past and own one now. For my Blazer, I have no owner's manual and no FSM or Haynes manual. I am familiar with the traditional GM RWD with 11 lube points. I took a look at the 4WD Blazer and found only 4; on the TRE's inner and outer. I assume the rest are hidden under the 'skid plate'. It has a molded fiberboard rather than a metal skid plate. I noticed it has an inspection port to access the oil filter change. Being a torsion bar rather than coil springs, the front suspension is very different.
What are the lube points, how many, etc. I notice a drip at the back end of the skid plate. Is that the rear main seal leaking? Other possibilites. The air bag light is always on the dash. Other than checking the SIR fuse on the IP fuse panel, what else can I check to reset that dash light?
Where is the best place to get an owner's manual? a Haynes manual? I need them for the basic oil change capacity and oil filter type, fuel filter, etc.
Is there any place on the forum to go to find out this basic info? I have 'searched' and did find a 'how to lube the front end', but the photo's were deleted and the author didn't specify if it was for a 2WD or a 4WD Blazer. The text said there were 11 lube points, so I suspect the article covered the 2WD version. Thanks in advance for your help. Jim in SC

 

Hello from another south carolina member (upstate)


On the front end you should (basing this off my 91) have 4 ball joints,4 tie rods,pittman,and idler arm that should be lubable.(is that a word? lol). Dont be surprised the idler arm is bad. its common. jack front end up and wiggle the tires. if the idler moves up and down anywhere its bad.


for oil,its the simple 5 quarts and filter. for the leak,i bet its the oil filter adapter on the block. its what the lines run into. it leaks and looks like a rear main. do this before spending mucho on rear seal.

fuel filter is a FRAM Part # G8219
You can use this or ask the parts guy to cross reference it for another brand.

Not sure on the air bag,look at the fuse,and try disconnecting the battery for 15 min.


anything else ask.

 

Just unbolt and remove the "skid plate" to access all the steering linkage joints to lube them: inner/outer tie rod ends, upper/lower ball joints, pittman arm, idler arm. You will need to be able to turn the wheels lock to lock for access to some fittings.

For the oil leak, check the front two oil plan bolts.....you may be luck in that they are still there and just loose.
Another common oil leak is the front cover, it is plastic and requires ALOT of work to replace as the front differential must come loose in order to get the oil pan off....not enough room in there....or raise the engine...either way ALOT of work.

Have some fun....

 

Thanks for the replies, Chris and Lanny. I appreciate it. I will pull the skid plate this weekend to take a look at the fittings. I am used to the oil filter adapter leaking from my LT1 V8 in the 1994 impala SS. Those all leak like crazy. I hope that's it. I forgot to ask about the 2003 4.3 V6 ---whether or not it has a EGR valve. I read the excellent DIY write up on this forum on how to replace it, went to Auto Zone and bought one. The parts guy seemed to think it had one, but I can't find the EGR on the engine! It is not where the write-up photo shows it. Anyone know where the EGR valve is on the 2003? BTW I bought a Fram fuel filter at the AZ and it was Fram p.n. G8219. I reluctantly bought a Fram because the Oil Forum aka BITOG, hate the 'Orange Can of Death' as the BITOGer's call it. I don't use the Fram oil filters from reading that forum.

 

No EGR valve on an '03....well...there is none on my '02 so I am assuming that the '03 does not have one either.

Totally agree with not using FRAM....I have refused to use their crap for years. I used to only use GM/Delco filters, but even they have changed to a cheaper construction and have gone to WIX filters now for everything.

 

I have found that AC Delco has two oil filter lines: one is the old style oil filter; an example is PF-52 for the LT1 V8. Now they have come out with a new version denoted as PF-52E with the E standing for Ecology or Economy or something like that. You will find that both versions are available. Avoid the 'E' type.
I will now definitely remove the fiberboard skid plate and look at the oil pan bolts and tighten them.
I will also check the Idler arm for play. I have noticed on the highway that my Blazer steering is not as tight as I would like. I will check the idler arm play. Do most on this forum like the Moog Problem Solver Idler arm? Thanks for all the great tips.

 

Sunday I got the Blazer on ramps and pulled the two skid plates. One has four T30 Torx bolts and one has six 15 mm bolts.I don't see a lot of leakage around the oil filter adapter base. A few dried drops on the oil filter. I think that could be the filter seal itself. I will keep a watch on that. I do see a lot of oil on the crank case. Boy, is it tight in there. I could barely get to three of the 13 mm bolts on the oil pan. There are cooler lines and wire harnesses in the way. I was going to check the idler arm, but it is hard to see, compared to a 2WD GM car, like my old 1986 Buick Regal.
I did a search for the 2003 Blazer oil filter model. It gave me AC Delco PF 47 and PF 52. I will look today to see if the PF 52 will fit. It is the same size, except a lot 'taller'. That means more capacity and more filtration than the PF 47. IOW if the PF 52 fits, I will definitely use that one: More capacity, same size as my Impala SS, and the same price as the PF 47! Strangely the PF 52E was more expensive!?

 

The PF-52 was the one to use, however the design has been changed and is not as good as it use to be. I would suggest going to the WIX line of filters; #51036 is for the Blazer.

The steering linkage on the Blazer has four tie rod ends and two arms....no wonder it never feels "tight"....with all those joints. I replaced the outer tie rods ends and it made some difference, but to get the "tight" feel'n I think it will require all new joints....which is a bit expensive and as you have noticed....going to be a PITA to get to all them.
Probably just best to drop the linkage out in one piece, replace everything and then put back in as one piece.

Have fun learning about your new Blazer.

 

Thanks, Lanny, I am having a great time with my 'new' Blazer. I really enjoy driving it, even without the A/C working! I have got to get that fixed. I did get the Haynes repair manual on the Blazer and am reading that. Yes, I know the FSM is much better and has lots more details...... One slow day, go to the BITOG oil forum and look at their 'oil filter' section. Those guys cut open new filters and study the components and compare the various strengths and weaknesses. They also cut open the used filters and look at the performance and compare that as well. They have a lot of fans of the Wix filters.