Resurrection of this thread after finally fixing my smog issues and getting registered... now back to these issues:
#2: I still have the odometer issues. I have replaced all the fuse in the interior fuse panel and will soon be doing the same on the under hood, just to eliminate that for a fresh start. I also plan to check the grounds I can find around the gauges. Open to other suggestions on this one before tearing the dash apart and checking the soldering for the ODO pins.

#3: Still no fog lights and I haven't gotten back into troubleshooting this yet. I will be directly wiring the bulbs just to check the off chance that both went out at the same time.

#4: The selector issues were likely due to the vacuum lines breaking down. I replaced every hose in the system and seems to be working correctly now.

#5: On this idle issue I have since manually dropped the idle using the screw on the throttle body so I could clear the high idle code and pass smog. If anyone has the factory shop manual processes for establishing baseline idle I would appreciate that so I can get started on this and the IAC leveling.

#6: Dome light override still doesn't work and haven't, troubleshot this since posting along with the fog lights and radio on /door latch issue. I will be running through Christine's above schematics and some testing but f anyone has some tips or experience with this problem I am of course all ears.

#7: As mentioned I am very happy to report the secondary air system readiness test finally triggered. After all the unfortunate forced due to space limitations shade tree mechanic throw parts at it techniques, I finally saw that the coolant temp wasnt getting over about 165 regardless of idle, load, or heat up post shutdown. Found that either the thermostat was either stuck partially open or a previous owner swapped for a 165/180 temp. Put the 195 factory in and within 2 minutes the air pump ran and the test completed.

#8: I am really hoping that #7 was causing some poor fuel economy. I just put a fresh tank in today on the way home from the DMV getting my registration, and miracles upon miracles, my odometer display was actually working at the time of the gas stop so I was able to reset the trip meter to an assured 0. I will keep an eye on how much city vs highway I do on this tank and really hope my odometer works again sometime close to when I get gas again to get a new reading. I still have the new multipoint injection spider I think I will still put in, as well as new wires and plugs to put in..

Thanks in advanced for your input.

 

Do Connect/Scan All Faults with CGP and see if any of the other onboard systems happen to be generating codes (Speedo and dome override and fog lights and radio power and gear selector are all run by modules on the data bus - BCM or Instrument cluster). These are the codes you don't hear much about.

IAC should control between 500 rpm and 1200 rpm +\- 100 rpm. Used to be with throttle body you plugged the hole for the IAC passage with a little tool and set the base idle speed. Need to figure out how to close the IAC valve or plug that passage and set to 500 rpm in park. Or maybe you could just set the screw so TPS reads zero degrees (if TPS hasn't been disturbed). Or adjust idle screw so IAC gives a certain amount of counts at a certain RPM (compared to a known good vehicle one). I think there are several ways to do it.

 

I'll give it a shot here in a couple minutes with my tablet that was working with us on CGP the other night.
Thanks Les

 

OK for current codes I have a BCM - B2647 and a P0147 (Bank 1 Sensor 3).
The BCM looks like the light sensor. Which my lights seems to work with it. It looks like that could be an issue to my fog lights according the the wiring schematic I have. But not sure why my headlights wouldn't have a shared issue there.
- Edit: come to think of it the headlights might be on all the time after releasing the brake lever i will have to verify that tomorrow, but I am also pretty sure that speaker grill is sun rotted and broken soe the ambient light sensor may be deep in the speaker so it thinks its dark too, but would think the fog lights would work then too.


The P0147 If I remember right, sensor 3 is post cat.. and didn't think the heater would matter.

History Codes:
4WAL/ABS/VSES - C0281 - Looks like a brake switch issues.. which was one of the issues my dad actually replaced the entire turn signal etc. switch assembly so I am sure that is why that is no longer a live code.
BCM - B2647 - Same as current.

There are countless Old Codes so I am going to forget I saw those so I don't stress out.

 

Now that you have passed SMOG you can do connect/GM/ClearAllFaults and wipe out absolutely everything if you like. Anything that comes back will be real.

 

I am mixing up my threads between all my trucks issues. Regarding the TPS and IAC. When I first was tuning up the truck I cleaned the MAF with MAF specific spray and I sonic cleaned the throttlebody with the TPS and IAC disconnected. After I got it all back together is when the truck started with the high idle issue I had. I didn't disconnect the battery doing this, so maybe there was so much build up in the IAC that the PSM was over coming with by pulling out the IAC, that when I cleaned it all spot free that the PCM was pulling out the IAC by memory of what it needed with all the build up and without the build up it was letting too much air in raising the idle.
In any case I ended up replacing the MAF, TPS and IAC, so they have all been disturbed before I moved the screw manually.

I know the IAC / TB style you are talking about but unless there is a thin clip tool that plugs the hole and allows the air cap to be fitted so their is no unregulated air coming in I don't see how it would be possible to plug the hole. On old FI mustangs the baseline was set by unplugging the IAC and vacuum, setting base timing and idle then plugging back in for relearn.
I suppose these 4.3l only control the idle with the IAC i.e. if we were to unplug the IAC and set the idle the would the PCM try to adjust injector pulse to compensate or would it allow for the baseline to be set then overlay the IAC after it is plugged back in.. clear the PCM or not?

 

I think I need to revel in my active all green readies on my emissions screen for at least another day before I clear everything

 

The codes have been cleared post body lift battery disconnect, and I should have my other ODBII tool to try and get started on this again sometime this weekend.