My transmission is leaking fluid..??
#1
06-27-2016, 05:40 PM
My transmission is leaking fluid..??
The converter became lose from a towing trip. (I towed another Blazer home to fix up mine haha go figure...???)
At first I thought I blew the motor or spun a bearing the noise has so shakey. Turns out the converter bolts were lose.
Tightened them up and thought all was well again. Took her for a ride and she started blowing ATF after about 20 miles or so EVERYWHERE.
Limped her home, filled her up w fluid, let her run.... And I'm noticing fluid dripping from btwn the converter and transmission.
****. I'm pretty sure I know the outcome. Any food for thought...??
At first I thought I blew the motor or spun a bearing the noise has so shakey. Turns out the converter bolts were lose.
Tightened them up and thought all was well again. Took her for a ride and she started blowing ATF after about 20 miles or so EVERYWHERE.
Limped her home, filled her up w fluid, let her run.... And I'm noticing fluid dripping from btwn the converter and transmission.
****. I'm pretty sure I know the outcome. Any food for thought...??
#3
06-27-2016, 06:07 PM
Most likely the input shaft seal was damaged by the vibration from the loose flex plate->converter botls.
The bad news is you have to separate the transmission from the engine to repair this.
The good news is the "input shaft seal" (AC/Delco part # 8667035) is only a couple bux.
While you have it apart, you'd be a fool not to replace the crankshaft rear seal and the other external seals on the transmission.
No, you won't need a "rebuilt/remanufactured" transmission.
Definitely check the flex plate for wear around the holes where the bolts go. If in doubt, a new (or even used) flex plate is a good idea.
BTW, many Jeep 4.0L engines have been replaced because of "bearing knock" which was actually loose flexplate bolts.
Also, use blue loctite on those bolts when you put it back together.
The bad news is you have to separate the transmission from the engine to repair this.
The good news is the "input shaft seal" (AC/Delco part # 8667035) is only a couple bux.
While you have it apart, you'd be a fool not to replace the crankshaft rear seal and the other external seals on the transmission.
No, you won't need a "rebuilt/remanufactured" transmission.
Definitely check the flex plate for wear around the holes where the bolts go. If in doubt, a new (or even used) flex plate is a good idea.
BTW, many Jeep 4.0L engines have been replaced because of "bearing knock" which was actually loose flexplate bolts.
Also, use blue loctite on those bolts when you put it back together.
Last edited by Racer_X; 06-27-2016 at 06:12 PM. Reason: added comment about flex-plate.
#4
06-27-2016, 06:19 PM
Adding to my previous comments, during the repair of the input shaft seal, it would also be an excellent opportunity to drain/fill the transmission and clean the valve body and replace the filter and easily accessible internal seals.
After this type of complete hydraulic repair, it's generally safe to go on a 30,000 mile ATF drain/fill and filter replacement regimen, even if the thing has been neglected for 100K+ miles.
After this type of complete hydraulic repair, it's generally safe to go on a 30,000 mile ATF drain/fill and filter replacement regimen, even if the thing has been neglected for 100K+ miles.
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