i just took the mc back off and bench bled it again. i pumped that thing close to 100 times and fluid shoots up everytime but not one bubble. i find it hard to believe that the fluid will stop shooting up but hopefully your right.

 

We went through this exact issue with a new MC on an 1989 LeSabre that my brother had. It took absolutely forever to get the MC bled. Once it was though, you could definitely feel it.

You do not need to have the MC off to bleed it properly. It is much easier to push the brake pedal in the vehicle.

You can check your progress by connecting both sides of the MC together. If you get a hard pedal with both outlets of the MC together, you have cleared the air. If not, you still have air in there.

 

after letting the mc sit over night i went out and pump the thing again. i got air bubbles this time and the fluid shooting up reduced dramatically. ill keep workin on it. thanks for helpin

i just tried hoking the lines together on the mc. i get a 1/4 inch of travel before i cant push my screwdriver any farther my geuss is theres still air in there

 

You had me wondering if my memory was correct! I remember quite a few being such royal pains in the butt that I was about ready to roll the vehicle off a cliff. So I feel your pain.

I have had to get creative in the past and pull a vacuum on the MC to get all of the air out. Some designs can be quite stubborn.

I am glad you are getting it figured out.

 

tired of trying to figure out how to bleed the abs i purchased alldata. the section that talks about bleeding the system takes me to this. notice what it says after no.14

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

1. Negative battery cable.
2. Four electrical connectors from EBCM.
3. Electrical connector from the combination valve.
4. Front and rear brake pipes from the combination valve.
5. Three hydraulic lines from the tube adapters on the BPMV.
6. Three 10mm bolts that fasten the EHCU bracket to the vehicle mounting bracket.
7. EHCU from the vehicle.
8. Four T-25 Torx(R) bolts from the EBCM.
9. EBCM from BPMV. A light amount of force may be necessary to remove the EBCM. NOTE:

o Do not pry on the EBCM or BPMV. Excessive force will cause damage to the EBCM.
o Do not reuse the EBCM gasket or mounting bolts. Always install a new gasket and new bolts.

10. Three Allen bolts from the combination valve.
11. Combination valve from the BPMV.
12. Two transfer tubes.
13. Three 13 mm bolts retaining the BPMV to the bracket.

NOTE:

* Do not reuse the transfer tubes. Always install new transfer tubes.

INSTALL OR CONNECT

1. New transfer tubes into the combination valve until fully seated.
2. Combination valve to BPMV.
3. Three Allen bolts that fasten the combination valve to the BPMV.

o Tighten Bolts in two steps.
o First to 8 Nm (6 ft. lbs.)
o Second to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.)

4. New EBCM gasket to EBCM. NOTE:

o Do not use RTV or any other sealant on the gasket or mating surfaces.

5. EBCM to BPMV.

o Inspect Gasket to verify proper alignment.

6. Four new EBCM Torx(R) bolts.

o Tighten Four bolts to 5 Nm (39 in. lbs.) in an X pattern.

7. Three 13 mm EHCU to base bracket retaining bolt.

o Tighten three 13mm bolts to 9 Nm (7 ft. lbs.)

8. EHCU on to the vehicle.
9. Three 10mm bolts that fasten the EHCU bracket to the vehicle bracket.
10. Front and rear brake pipes to the combination valve.

o Tighten brake pipe fittings to 29 Nm (22 ft. lbs.)

10. Three hydraulic lines to tube adapters on BPMV.
11. The 2-way connector to combination valve.
12. Four electrical connectors to the EBCM.
13. Negative battery cable.
14. Bleed the brake system.

o Verify that the combination valve metering rod is depressed during bleeding.

15. Return to Diagnostic System Check.


Wheres the metering rod and how do i depress it?

 

i just found an article from a 97 blazer sevice manual that says u need a tech 1 to bleed the abs. any experience doing it another way.

and i got a few more tiny bubbles out of the master this morning but i can still push the screwdriver in a bit when i connect the ports together

 

That's a new one... Tech1 is OBD1 only. Must be something with the ABS setup. The newer trucks require nothing special.

 

i hooked the mc back up today and had enough pedal feel to go drive it. i took it to an empty gravel lot and slammed the brakes on a couple times to kick the abs in. the pedal felt good when i slammed it or pumped it up quikly. i tried to get the abs to kick hoping that would work air out, if it was in it. then i bled at each wheel again, this time i got some nasty lookin fluid to come out of the fronts. the pedal is feeling alot better but still not great.

i never had my abs kick in with my windows down before today so i never really noticed what it sounded like. but today it sounded really loud and kind of like when my uncle eats too many beans, lots of wet gassy noise. is that what it always sounds like or is that a definite sign of air in the abs block?

 

I never really "heard" the ABS work versus "feeling" it. At most what I "heard", could be imagination, was like a stuttering sound. Gassy sounds like an issue to me.

How did they seem to work?

 

Don't know what your uncle sounds like, but the older ABS units can be quite loud even when functioning properly.

Sounds like you are getting it sorted out though!