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New wheel bearing bad?

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Old 06-11-2009, 01:40 PM
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Default New wheel bearing bad?

Just yesterday I replaced the front driver's side wheel bearing with a new Timken unit. I know that wheel bearing was bad because it had been humming for a while and started grinding. I have also suspected the passenger's side was bad, but it wasn't as bad so I hadn't replaced it yet. During the test drive, there was still a whining, which I had initially assumed was the passenger's side. However, the sound went away during left turns and was louder during right turns, which I believe (based on searching) suggests the driver's side. I'm wondering if someone can confirm this or if perhaps I didn't tighten something well enough that would cause this. It's under warranty so it won't cost me anything to replace, but I'd rather not go through the hassle if my diagnosis is wrong.
 
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:43 PM
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Other possibility is both of them were going bad. I buy the $119 ones on the philosophy they offer a one year warranty on the higher priced ones and even el' cheapo will last THAT long. I've replaced one only to discover it was masking the sounds of the other one. (I've come to regard bearings as a semi-annual event)
 
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:39 PM
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Same here, that's why I didn't go OEM (stealership wanted $289). I was just surprised to have yet another bad one. I guess I'll replace it again and see if that does it since it's under warranty. Worst case, I have a bearing that's a couple days newer and peace of mind. I already planned on having to replace the other soon, I was just surprised at the sound going away under left turns (suggesting the new one is bad).
 
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:49 PM
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I'd be really surprised at a new one being bad. The only occasional problem with new ones is they were over enthusiastic adding grease and your ABS light will start going off. Maybe I shouldn't be surprised at a bad one. If the Chinese can put antifreeze in toothpaste, they can make the occasional bad bearing. But I do have faith in Timken.
 
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:44 PM
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I kinda had the same problem. I replaced a bad passenger side wheel bearing with a brand new one out of the box and it went bad 3 days later. It was of course the cheaper one but I went ahead and replaced it with the more expensive trusted name one. This took place about 6 months ago and it's already starting to grind again
 
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:06 PM
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I'm with RonJon. I replaced my passenger side wheel bearing, the driver's side went bad a week later. Its very possible that they were both on their way out, especially if they are the originals.
 
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:32 PM
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Keep wasteing money on cheap knock off's! Car part's are no diffrent than Jewl-Osco and Aldi Food's.....You can go to aldi and get golden puff's(which is a cereal) and you can go to jewl and get Smack's cereal (same as golden puff's) AND trusy me there will be a diffrence in taste, quality, and texture of the product. The same goes for any other product you will ever buy. That's why a GM wheel bearing is so expensive, Because it is better and will out last the compitition by a long shot. My 2002 Blazer LS has over 117000mi, 40000mi it has had rim's with a wicked off-set and im still on the original set of hub's. Now this does not justify driving conditions, off-roading, or abrupt manuver's. But what im trying to say is that if you buy quality(GM,O.E) then you get what you pay for, if you go cheap the same rule apply's
 
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:51 AM
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I'll not argue with "you get what you pay for". When I buy ignition parts I buy OEM or the best aftermarket has to offer. Sensors I go OEM. However after getting under my truck and seeing the geometry, the A-frame angles, I figure whatever you put in there is going to have a "challenged" life at best. So I go cheep.
 
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:28 AM
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There is also the possibility that your new bearing is perfectly fine and that the humming noise is caused by your driver side CV just starting to go bad. They tend to start with the humming noise before moving on to the clicking and popping noises.

Try putting the truck into 4WD and see if any more of the symptoms of a bad CV start to show up.

SYMPTOMS OF CV JOINT FAILURE
Bad boots are not the only thing you need to look for. You also need to listen for noise or complaints that might indicate a CV joint problem. These include:
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