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no power at the power window fuse

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Old 06-24-2010, 09:47 PM
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Default no power at the power window fuse

95 blazer 4dr 4x4 power windows stopped working altogether (all of them from every switch). Checked the power window fuse and its good (all other fuses work too btw). I then , with a test light, checked where the power window fuse should go and got no power. I also checked, with the same test light and same ground, the power accessory fuse right above it and i got power.
FYI: Before the windows stopped working they would go in and out. One minute they would work and then a couple dash lights would come on and they wouldnt work. Its as if there was a short and they stopped working but then all of a sudden they would work again. Also, at one point when they first started failing i checked the fuse and burned my hand because it was so hot.

**I have no idea where to get started and i dont want to pay a mechanic to dig through electrical. If anyone at all could help me out, then god bless you**
 
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bigslik20
95 blazer 4dr 4x4 power windows stopped working altogether (all of them from every switch). Checked the power window fuse and its good (all other fuses work too btw). I then , with a test light, checked where the power window fuse should go and got no power. I also checked, with the same test light and same ground, the power accessory fuse right above it and i got power.
FYI: Before the windows stopped working they would go in and out. One minute they would work and then a couple dash lights would come on and they wouldnt work. Its as if there was a short and they stopped working but then all of a sudden they would work again. Also, at one point when they first started failing i checked the fuse and burned my hand because it was so hot.

**I have no idea where to get started and i dont want to pay a mechanic to dig through electrical. If anyone at all could help me out, then god bless you**
I have the same problem. Any solution?
 
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Old 08-04-2011, 03:57 AM
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I would check the connections on the back of the fuse panel. One might have come loose.
 
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:10 AM
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hey, is this a fuse or circuit breaker? hot is the key. rectangular aluminum can w 2 prongs. if so, you have a dead short after the breaker. hope this helps

bernie
 
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:19 AM
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It's a circuit breaker. It being hot means there is a short as berniescout stated. I would check the wiring that goes into the door. On the newer 2nd gens, there is also a main power wire that runs across the middle of the driver side footwell from front to back that can corrode and/or short out.

Check out this post for a schematic:
Rear Powerless Window
 
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:59 PM
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another thought. do you have a power seat? does it work? I had a dead short in side of the seat, where a wire was routed around a piece of steel in the frame and wore through the insulation. i don't remember whether it was on the window breaker or the accessory breaker.
 
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:49 AM
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Found one problem. Bad connection at the power distrobition block.

I have POWER..

But now when i push any button to lower or raise any window the voltage drop to 0V (zero).

Is it possiblw that it's a grounding issue!?
I dont belive that all four window motors will fail at the same time.
 
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gotlandia
Found one problem. Bad connection at the power distrobition block.

I have POWER..

But now when i push any button to lower or raise any window the voltage drop to 0V (zero).

Is it possiblw that it's a grounding issue!?
I dont belive that all four window motors will fail at the same time.
Where are you measuring V?
.. assuming you are referencing to somewhere on chassis, if it was a ground problem, V would stay at 12 V while nothing happened.
Sounds like another bad connection.

? Do you have 'Retained Access Power'? Radio and windows operable key out until door opened.
 

Last edited by pettyfog; 08-09-2011 at 10:07 AM.
  #9  
Old 08-09-2011, 11:32 AM
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How long does the power remain at zero volts? If it comes right back to 12V, then I would say it still is a connection issue as pettyfog has detailed. If it stays at 0V for quite a while, you have a short in the wiring between the switch and the motor that is tripping the circuit breaker.
 
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