Novice Replacing Spark plugs, wires,distributor
#1
Novice Replacing Spark plugs, wires,distributor
So I recently received a 2002 2WD Chevy Blazer from a friend who moved from MD to CA for practically nothing. I knew it had a lot of work that needed to be done but I'm hoping that I can defer some of the costs by doing anything small myself. I'm not a car person, but over the years I have been able to learn to change my own brakes and oil, but I don't know how in depth this will be. I have built computers, repaired small electronics, small appliances, but this is a much taller order.A s for my car, it's been rough idling since I purchased it and it takes a lot of effort to get it to accelerate, and I took it to a mechanic and they said the spark plug wires are arcing I'll be replacing my front brake pads (which i am certain i can do) and the spark plugs, wires, distributor, cap and rotor. I have seen tons of videos on changing the spark plugs and they seem fine, but the distributor, rotor & cap and getting the alignment correct seem like they might be a bit too much. That coupled with the big problems I have to actually pay to get fixed (one of them is the infamous fuel pump gauge issue) I'm planning on starting this on Saturday morning and hop to be done by Sunday morning so i can get this car turned in to a mechanic and passing my states safety inspection. On a scale of 1-10, 1 being pushing my car on the mechanic on Monday and 10 being window down, A/C cranked and my hair blowing in the breeze while I light a cigar with the money I saved on parts and labor, how easy is this repair for a novice?
#2
Replacing the spark-plugs is a hassle. From what you describe, you very likely will able to to all of this work
There are plenty of threads on the difficulties of getting to the middle one on the driver's side. You can even get special tools to help. Small hands and long arms help. Taking the front wheels off helps with access.
As for replacing the rotor and cap, that is not hard, just a hassle as they are at the back of the motor and it is easy to lose the small screws. Be sure to only use AC-Delco parts for the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. There is no alignment that you can do to the distributor. It is clamped in place the engine computer takes care of the fine-tuning.
Don't remove the distributor. It is a hassle to get back in and if you rotate the crank with it out, it is super hard to get back in correctly.
There are plenty of threads on the difficulties of getting to the middle one on the driver's side. You can even get special tools to help. Small hands and long arms help. Taking the front wheels off helps with access.
As for replacing the rotor and cap, that is not hard, just a hassle as they are at the back of the motor and it is easy to lose the small screws. Be sure to only use AC-Delco parts for the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. There is no alignment that you can do to the distributor. It is clamped in place the engine computer takes care of the fine-tuning.
Don't remove the distributor. It is a hassle to get back in and if you rotate the crank with it out, it is super hard to get back in correctly.
#3
To be honest, if I were You, I'd get a cheap BAFX OBD dongle and perform a diagnosis myself prior touching anything else. I've seen too many fabricated stories, that are not based on comprehensive testings, and people blowing holes in their wallets. Unluckily You're short with time due to safety inspection :S
#4
To be honest, if I were You, I'd get a cheap BAFX OBD dongle and perform a diagnosis myself prior touching anything else. I've seen too many fabricated stories, that are not based on comprehensive testings, and people blowing holes in their wallets. Unluckily You're short with time due to safety inspection :S
Does it have any warning light or the Check Engine Light on? Even if not, it is worth getting the computer scanned using a scanning tool from an autoparts store. Normally if you can get it there, the will scan it and give you the codes. You might even be able to rent one from them.
#5
A bit of a long overdue update:
I changed my spark plugs and wires. I didn't realize that my blazer was so heavy so I put 2 car jack stands underneath it so i could get to that weird wire behind my tire. I didn't change the distributor. I had to keep putting it the repair off because of weather and family emergencies, but I finally got it done the day after thanksgiving. runs noticeably better, tho every now and then there's so slight hesitation but it's good enough until the weather warms a bit. Thanks everyone!
I changed my spark plugs and wires. I didn't realize that my blazer was so heavy so I put 2 car jack stands underneath it so i could get to that weird wire behind my tire. I didn't change the distributor. I had to keep putting it the repair off because of weather and family emergencies, but I finally got it done the day after thanksgiving. runs noticeably better, tho every now and then there's so slight hesitation but it's good enough until the weather warms a bit. Thanks everyone!
#6
So I recently received a 2002 2WD Chevy Blazer from a friend who moved from MD to CA for practically nothing. I knew it had a lot of work that needed to be done but I'm hoping that I can defer some of the costs by doing anything small myself. I'm not a car person, but over the years I have been able to learn to change my own brakes and oil, but I don't know how in depth this will be. I have built computers, repaired small electronics, small appliances, but this is a much taller order.A s for my car, it's been rough idling since I purchased it and it takes a lot of effort to get it to accelerate, and I took it to a mechanic and they said the spark plug wires are arcing I'll be replacing my front brake pads (which i am certain i can do) and the spark plugs, wires, distributor, cap and rotor. I have seen tons of videos on changing the spark plugs and they seem fine, but the distributor, rotor & cap and getting the alignment correct seem like they might be a bit too much. That coupled with the big problems I have to actually pay to get fixed (one of them is the infamous fuel pump gauge issue) I'm planning on starting this on Saturday morning and hop to be done by Sunday morning so i can get this car turned in to a mechanic and passing my states safety inspection. On a scale of 1-10, 1 being pushing my car on the mechanic on Monday and 10 being window down, A/C cranked and my hair blowing in the breeze while I light a cigar with the money I saved on parts and labor, how easy is this repair for a novice?
Cap/rotor is super easy but the cap hold-down screws and rotor screws are "Torx" IIRC. Get a good quality cap/rotor such as AC Delco. These Blazers are picky about them. An assortment of torx bits are typically found in bit driver sets for quite cheap - you can ask about them at the parts store. Everyone needs a set. Make sure not to overtighten the cap screws when you go back together - the plastic distributor housing cracks easily (and then you would need to replace it). No need to try to set timing on this vehicle. Distributor is locked in place by the factory hold-down.
Spark plug wires..... be sure to buy a tailor made set specific to your vehicle. You don't want to jack around with putting ends on and cutting wires to length unless you're experienced. Replace them one at a time, and if you have bought a good set of matched wires you can take one off and figure out which new one to put on in its place. Don't break the plastic clips.on the wiring looms - a little extra care to get them off correctly will pay off later.
Spark plugs are most easily accessed on a Blazer through the wheel well. You will have to move the rubber flap out of the way for access. I like to use a lond extension and a swivel spark plug socket wherever possible. Don't tear or remove this flap as it keeps water from splashing up on your plug wires. #3 spark plug is of particular difficulty (middle on driver's side) as it is right behind the steering shaft. Some people have no problem if they use a swivel spark plug socket. But others have real difficulty getting a socket on the spark plug. If that is the case, the simplest thing is to jack up the engine just enough to get the job done with a floor jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. Probably enough give in the motor mount that you don't have to disconnect it - may already be broken anyway (that's common).
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