Overheating Issue - Within 5 Minutes of Driving
#11
05-23-2017, 07:40 AM
Consider the following:
Double check that your fan clutch is working properly. It should not spin more then several turns or so when you shut the engine off once the engine is fully warmed up (~200 degrees).
Drain and save the coolant. Look down into the rad for signs of crud, deposits, and blockage (this isn't always easy due to the auto trans cooling lines). Remove the lower radiator hose and then pour fresh water through the top of the radiator. Water should run out the bottom almost as fast as you can pour it into the top of the rad. If in doubt, remove the rad and have it checked/cleaned by a rad shop. Or you can try to clean it in the vehicle with a heavy duty rad cleaner w/both rad hoses blocked off (you might even let it sit for a day or 2 until you flush it out).
Unfortunately, a bad head gasket could be part, or all of, the problem. You can check this by having an emission test shop analyze the radiator fill neck and/or overflow tank (significant combustion readings indicate a blown head gasket(s). You can also consider adding a special chemical to the cooling system that changes to a specific color if combustion 'residue' is in the system. Sorry, but I can't remember any of the brand names for this chemical (a local auto parts store, or forum member, should be able to help with this).
Also let us know if the issue started to occur very suddenly, or slowly over time? A sudden occurrence might point to a bad head gasket.
Double check that your fan clutch is working properly. It should not spin more then several turns or so when you shut the engine off once the engine is fully warmed up (~200 degrees).
Drain and save the coolant. Look down into the rad for signs of crud, deposits, and blockage (this isn't always easy due to the auto trans cooling lines). Remove the lower radiator hose and then pour fresh water through the top of the radiator. Water should run out the bottom almost as fast as you can pour it into the top of the rad. If in doubt, remove the rad and have it checked/cleaned by a rad shop. Or you can try to clean it in the vehicle with a heavy duty rad cleaner w/both rad hoses blocked off (you might even let it sit for a day or 2 until you flush it out).
Unfortunately, a bad head gasket could be part, or all of, the problem. You can check this by having an emission test shop analyze the radiator fill neck and/or overflow tank (significant combustion readings indicate a blown head gasket(s). You can also consider adding a special chemical to the cooling system that changes to a specific color if combustion 'residue' is in the system. Sorry, but I can't remember any of the brand names for this chemical (a local auto parts store, or forum member, should be able to help with this).
Also let us know if the issue started to occur very suddenly, or slowly over time? A sudden occurrence might point to a bad head gasket.
#12
05-23-2017, 09:05 AM
It was slowly over time. Replaced the radiator cap and that seemed OK for like 10 minute's (improvement!)
No signs of a blown gasket. My guess is a clogged radiator or bad hoses at this point. 😥
This is so frustrating. I am trying to get my truck"summer ready" and this isn't working!
One more update. I do have heat now! 😁
No signs of a blown gasket. My guess is a clogged radiator or bad hoses at this point. 😥
This is so frustrating. I am trying to get my truck"summer ready" and this isn't working!
One more update. I do have heat now! 😁
Consider the following:
Double check that your fan clutch is working properly. It should not spin more then several turns or so when you shut the engine off once the engine is fully warmed up (~200 degrees).
Drain and save the coolant. Look down into the rad for signs of crud, deposits, and blockage (this isn't always easy due to the auto trans cooling lines). Remove the lower radiator hose and then pour fresh water through the top of the radiator. Water should run out the bottom almost as fast as you can pour it into the top of the rad. If in doubt, remove the rad and have it checked/cleaned by a rad shop. Or you can try to clean it in the vehicle with a heavy duty rad cleaner w/both rad hoses blocked off (you might even let it sit for a day or 2 until you flush it out).
Unfortunately, a bad head gasket could be part, or all of, the problem. You can check this by having an emission test shop analyze the radiator fill neck and/or overflow tank (significant combustion readings indicate a blown head gasket(s). You can also consider adding a special chemical to the cooling system that changes to a specific color if combustion 'residue' is in the system. Sorry, but I can't remember any of the brand names for this chemical (a local auto parts store, or forum member, should be able to help with this).
Also let us know if the issue started to occur very suddenly, or slowly over time? A sudden occurrence might point to a bad head gasket.
Double check that your fan clutch is working properly. It should not spin more then several turns or so when you shut the engine off once the engine is fully warmed up (~200 degrees).
Drain and save the coolant. Look down into the rad for signs of crud, deposits, and blockage (this isn't always easy due to the auto trans cooling lines). Remove the lower radiator hose and then pour fresh water through the top of the radiator. Water should run out the bottom almost as fast as you can pour it into the top of the rad. If in doubt, remove the rad and have it checked/cleaned by a rad shop. Or you can try to clean it in the vehicle with a heavy duty rad cleaner w/both rad hoses blocked off (you might even let it sit for a day or 2 until you flush it out).
Unfortunately, a bad head gasket could be part, or all of, the problem. You can check this by having an emission test shop analyze the radiator fill neck and/or overflow tank (significant combustion readings indicate a blown head gasket(s). You can also consider adding a special chemical to the cooling system that changes to a specific color if combustion 'residue' is in the system. Sorry, but I can't remember any of the brand names for this chemical (a local auto parts store, or forum member, should be able to help with this).
Also let us know if the issue started to occur very suddenly, or slowly over time? A sudden occurrence might point to a bad head gasket.
#13
05-23-2017, 09:10 AM
After much of the same "fixes," I am running hot for no apparent reason. I feel your pain and wish I could help. Other than a new radiator; maybe there is a way to check that head gasket. Driving around in the "overheated mode" can do that. Radiators are expensive but not as much as a new engine.
#14
05-23-2017, 01:37 PM
After much of the same "fixes," I am running hot for no apparent reason. I feel your pain and wish I could help. Other than a new radiator; maybe there is a way to check that head gasket. Driving around in the "overheated mode" can do that. Radiators are expensive but not as much as a new engine.
It's my radiator. When I was pulled over with my overheated Blazer (again), an ASE mechanic just happened to come out of his house and diagnosed the issue and did a full visual inspection. Even offered to take off the fan shroud to look closer. I didn't take him up on that offer, but with everything else I've done - and the constant overheating, it just makes sense that is the culprit. I look at it this way - I have a brand new catalytic converter, thermostat, water pump, and radiator cap - all for my new radiator to work brilliantly for several more miles!
#16
05-25-2017, 10:35 AM
Finally Fixed and Final Thoughts!
Final Update & It's a Happy Ending!
I really don't like it when folks don't ever post their conclusions on this forum, so I am going to do so here!
I had a cracked radiator. I pulled it out last night to see if that was indeed the cause of my headaches, and it certainly was. About a 3" crack that needed to be resolved. I put JB Weld (the grey kind) on the crack -- and then some to be safe. Let me just tell you all how happy I was that my Blazer never overheated while driving the 20 minutes to work this morning. Regardless, I am still going to buy a new radiator soon as to not tempt fate with a patch. I've attached images so you can all see what I did. What I DID! I am a little proud that I didn't need my Dad or Boyfriend to help me!
One Final Issue:
My Blazer is still revving more than I'd like to switch gears. Not going crazy into 4K RPMs - but still revving to get up to speed at some points. Breaking in? I'm not sure and was curious if I have a secondary issue.
Final thoughts:
I did need to have all the other stuff replaced on my Blazer. The dominoes all fell at the same time. That happens with a truck that was built in 2003. I do hope that my saga will help another Blazer owner in the future!
I really don't like it when folks don't ever post their conclusions on this forum, so I am going to do so here!
I had a cracked radiator. I pulled it out last night to see if that was indeed the cause of my headaches, and it certainly was. About a 3" crack that needed to be resolved. I put JB Weld (the grey kind) on the crack -- and then some to be safe. Let me just tell you all how happy I was that my Blazer never overheated while driving the 20 minutes to work this morning. Regardless, I am still going to buy a new radiator soon as to not tempt fate with a patch. I've attached images so you can all see what I did. What I DID! I am a little proud that I didn't need my Dad or Boyfriend to help me!
One Final Issue:
My Blazer is still revving more than I'd like to switch gears. Not going crazy into 4K RPMs - but still revving to get up to speed at some points. Breaking in? I'm not sure and was curious if I have a secondary issue.
Final thoughts:
I did need to have all the other stuff replaced on my Blazer. The dominoes all fell at the same time. That happens with a truck that was built in 2003. I do hope that my saga will help another Blazer owner in the future!
#17
05-25-2017, 12:24 PM
Good work Run Girl!
As for the transmission shifting issue: just make sure that you follow the owner's manual step for step when it comes to checking the ATF level. Checking it like back in the old days will often result in a slight over-filled condition that can cause odd shifting and the like.
As for the transmission shifting issue: just make sure that you follow the owner's manual step for step when it comes to checking the ATF level. Checking it like back in the old days will often result in a slight over-filled condition that can cause odd shifting and the like.
#18
05-25-2017, 01:41 PM
Thank you! This is why I love the Blazer Forum! Y'all are so helpful. I'll certainly check my owner's manual for checking the ATF fluid. I have a feeling it might have too much in there.
Good work Run Girl!
As for the transmission shifting issue: just make sure that you follow the owner's manual step for step when it comes to checking the ATF level. Checking it like back in the old days will often result in a slight over-filled condition that can cause odd shifting and the like.
As for the transmission shifting issue: just make sure that you follow the owner's manual step for step when it comes to checking the ATF level. Checking it like back in the old days will often result in a slight over-filled condition that can cause odd shifting and the like.
#19
05-25-2017, 02:38 PM
Nice work on patching the radiator. The JB weld should last you a while, but I would replace the radiator sooner or later. Did you have the transmission problem before or after pulling the radiator?
#20
05-25-2017, 02:40 PM
I had the transmission problem before pulling the radiator. I thought it was attributed to the catalytic converter (don't ask me why...), but now I'm not sure why it's revving so much. I think I have a quiet evening with my owner's manual ahead of me!