I have a 1995 4x4 automatic blazer with 136,000.

well here it goes I JUST bought this truck for $800. when I bought it the guy says that he rebuilt the whole motor recently and has kept up on the services...new leaf springs new shocks new brakes new fuel pump new coil new wires new plugs .. all which I can see... the reason it was so cheap he got sick of dumping money into it... (which I've always said is BS you KNOW the history so might at well keep going why sell it to buy a new problem) anyways... it was so cheap becausehe couldn'tkeep itrunning he said hed gone through the coil plugs and wiresand he thoguth it was probably the spider but he already bought his daughter another truck...he got it running when Iwent to pay him but it ran for 5 min then died out.. sounded fine nosputter no rough idle nothing.. sounded GREAT so i payed him andI had it towed back to a friends house and threw his scan tool on it (cheap one doesnt have stats) it was clear It wouldn't run for anymore than 5 minutes. I went to my local junkyard and grabbed a spider for $50 w/a 30 day warranty from a 94 sonoma it was the only one with a dry intake plenum so I took the gamble. i got it in in about 30-45 min.( yes i didclean the entire plenum and spider with carb cleaner)and come to find out the battery was dead... so yeah once that was taken care of ( jump) it started and runs ... STAYS running WHOOOOO HOOOOOOO ....but ran really rough.. and theres alot of white smoke (doesnt smell like maple syrup) from the exhaust.. p0300 .. so i tested the coil it checked out fine.. and those plugs are a PITA but yeah i checked every plug and wire.. oddly enough all 3 plugs on the passenger bank were carbon fouled.. the driver side looked ok (working order) and the crimp on thewire to plug 4 was scorched from arcing (no continuity) .. so I replaced the bosch +2 plugs with ac delco and got another set of wires... checked the wires to make sure none of them were crossed.. I even had a friend of mine triple check them... still misfired like a ****... its a rough idle no matter the rpm.. there is a smell of fuel from the engine bay and a HINT of fumes from the exhaust...tomorrow I plan on cleaning the egr (getting klean screen too...any special cleaning method???) check/replace the cap and rotor.. and praying its not the spider... I read the "dreaded p0300" but there were different circumstances and I'm on a bit of a deadline... i NEED A CAR... could anO2 be doing thisbtw should the intake look dry or have oil residue I noticed when I was cleaning it there was a "drain"? not sure what it was for... any gurus out there wanna lend their expertise as to what else could cause it with these symptoms...???
- p0300
- white smoke
- misfire @ idle and throughout rpm band
- carbon fouled plugs on 2,4,6 (before plug change)
- spider that now allows the car to run(working properly i think)
- new ac delcoplugs
- new bosch wire(i know but they were under lifetime warranty from autozone)
thanx in advance for any help

 

I would never go through all of the effort of putting in a junkyard CPI spider... That and the nut kit never likes to be disassembled and reassembled. It is quite possible that you caused another leak while trying to fix the first... You really should put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what the leak down is like. Anything more than 2-3psi and you have a leak... You can pull the upper plenum and pressurize the fuel system while inspecting for leaks.

 

yeah I tried that whole pressurizing thing didnt know till after I had it back together the battery was dead.. and I know but I jsut NEED a car right now and $50 is better that $300 till a couple of months whne I have the money to blow on it... so should the intake plenum be absolutely dry or is there supposed to be moisture /oil/or w/e in it???

 

There is going to be a certain amount of carbon and oily residue from the PCV system. But there should not be pools of fuel in the lower intake.

If you haven't done so, I would replace the PCV valve just as a preventative maintenance more than anything else.

 

there were pools of fuel in it from the spider i took out and I cleaned the entire thing out it was dry when I put it back to gether.. and i tried to pressurize the system at that time but I didn't know the battery was dead.. tomorrow I'm checkin fuel pressure...cleaning the egr checkin for leaks cap and rotor..my main questions and curiosities are the fouled plugs on 2,4,6 and the white smoke... white smoke almost ALWAYS means head gasket... (atleast in my experience)... would the misfiring cause moisture issues???

 

Did you replace the plugs when you replaced the spider? Or were they the plugs in the truck when you bought it? If they were in the truck when you bought it, then it is mostlikely because of the failed fuel pressure regulator (what caused the pools of fuel initially).

No, the misfire should not cause moisture in the intake.

 

pools of fuel from original spider... replaced spider w/ original plugs... ran rough... replaced plugs and wires after I tested a burnt out wire new acdelco plugs new bosch wires and still runs rough... and moisture in exhaust not the intake.... the white smoke from the tailpipe.. can that be caused by a misfire??? and are you saying the fouled plugs on 2,4,6 could have been from the fpr??? is there anychance that a poppet from the replacement spider could be clogged and is there a way to clean them????

 

Anything is possible with a used spider... That is why I wouldn't use one. My time in doing a repair of this kind is worth more than using unknown parts.

Condensation in the exhaust... Well, does it smell sweet, like it is coolant? Have you tried to run a compression test to determine if you have a head gasket failure? Have you gotten the engine up to full operating temperature? That will have an impact on clearing the exhaust of condensation.

And if you did not pull the original plugs and clean them after the spider swap, then definitely yes, if the old spider was leaking from the FPR, then it is very likely that it could foul the plugs on the passenger side of the engine. Also, if the FPR was leaking badly, you mostlikely have fuel in your oil as well. What is the oil level like? This could increase vaporization of the now oil/gas mixture in the crankcase which would then be sucked through the PCV valve.

 

k ripped it back apart.. since I couldn't do the pressurize test the first time...(dead battery) .. found the fpr is shot on the junkyard spider... so I'm gunna head to autozone grab one.. couple of quick qeustions... do I have to adjust the new fpr.. or should it be fine out of the box... and is there any particular order the poppets should be in???? I noticed in the post for the fpr replacement iac egr cleaning post.. his lines on the passengerside aren't in order.. and I noticed on my old one they were on thejunkyard one again they're crossed on the passenger side I've also noticed on the replacement spiders(at least in the pictures... ) the lines are straightand can go anywhere I guess.... or is there a particular order???

in any reply please post driver side first front, bottom, back on spider to which cylinder and passenger side front, bottom, back to which cylinder... if it actually matters....thanx:-)



BTW!!!!!! in that same post it talks about a torx bit for the fpr.. the ACTUAL tool is a security torx bit.... its too keep resourceful people like us from tinkering with the simple parts and make us by the $300 part...lol the bit says "S2 T15H" jsut a quick note on that:-)

 

The order doesn't matter on the CPI spider. This injection system is a batch fired system where the one central electronic injector feeds all 6 pressure actuated poppet nozzles at the same time. The only thing you must be concerned with is that they all reach properly. If they are all properly seated in their respective bores, then its good to go.

About the FPR, Lindertech.com has an update kit for the FPR to use the SCFI (96+) FPR which is much more robust. Wouldn't have it today though.