Howdy,
I am getting P1345 cam shaft /crank shaft retard error code. I've checked the cam retard value with Car Gauge and it shows -18.2degree.
I've been bringing TDC#1 with a camera into the cylinder to match the timing marks on the distributor, so that what is happening is somewhat confusing for me.

Should I advance (or retard) the distributor rotor by one tooth? Or find someone that would perform the re-learn procedure? I've been browsing the net, but what I found are a bunch of confusing information. Any feedback appreciated.

Brgds, Mike

 

relearn first, then camshaft. cheaper

 

Hi Mike,

I missed seeing your post. Looks like your new engine is running!!!

Distributor is in a tooth off - this is the cause of a P1345. Crankshaft sensor relearn is not possible with SES light on, so you must fix this first. Don't think the cam retard value is valid when distributor is in a tooth off so don't pay attention to it right now. I would not do the crank sensor relearn until the very last thing.

Put engine on TDC #1 by lining up the marks on the balancer with those on the timing cover (not with endoscope). Rotor should point close to the "6" cast in the surface of the distributor body where it meets the distributor cap (as viewed from the top). If not, remove distributor and reinstall on tooth that gets rotor the closest to the "6".

Good luck!

 

Thanks for Your post Yes, the engine is running well Although I've not been driving my ride outside house yet.
The only thing that concerns me now about the engine is the oil viscosity. Like I've said, people in Europe used to use 10W40 for petrol engines and it had been in the engine I bought (found a tag). I've filled in 5W30 - as per advised by GM, not sure if that was a good idea - and I am anxiously looking the signs of oil pressure drop. Although, if that happens it's going to be too late already.

As for now, I am getting two issues:
- P1345 cam/crank retard - I have everything assembled in front without an easy access to timing cover and a balancer, so I will release the distributor mount and advance it one tooth forward (Car Gauge reading was negative 18.2 degree)
- occasionally blinking brake/abs indicators. Brake pedal seems to be working as usual, I had the brake fluid level around 2-3mm below minimum. Topped up the fluid, hoping they will go off. No error code.

And last but not least - a rear bumper. I have to trim the sides that went 2" up with a body, to put back the mid section, that goes with a frame.
For the moment Blazer is nearly done (except the rear bumper)

Cheers, Mike

 

Sounds like a plan. Remember that cam sensor retard to use with Blazer is marked with the single asterick (*), NOT double asterick (**). Both cam sensor retard PIDs in Car Gauge Pro read the same at zero, but diverge more and more the further away from zero they get. I have matched the single asterick PID in Car Gauge Pro with the PID in HP Tuners and other softwares that have it.

5W30 Is for bearing clearances and oil pump as designed by the factory engineers. If too thick of oil, oil pump pressure is maxed out a lot of the time (only the oil pump bypass spring controlling to max pressure) especially when cold. This puts extra wear on the distributor gear (which drives the oil pump, and this is known to be a common problem on Blazers with the cam sensor retard going wonky when the gear wears). Also with thicker oil I think you might also have oil filtration problems from the various oil filter bypass valves staying open a lot more of the time (Can't force thick oil through the filter as easily and you don't want to starve engine oiling - so filter is bypassed when pressure differential before/after filter exceeds the pre-determined amount). Oil pressure at idle is VERY dependent on RPM. Increase 100rpm and pressure can go up 10 psi. Mine (with new engine 30K miles ago and 5W30 Quaker State non-synthetic oil) gives 20 psi at 550 rpm in Drive with hot engine in Summer after driving highway with A/C on for 20 miles. I would expect something less with a used engine - probably 10 psi min at same conditions. Less pressure than that, and I would switch to 10W30 (not 10W40) - as bearing or oil pump clearances have increased, presumably due to wear and as a result too high pressure would not be an issue. My 2001 Blazer manual says 5W30 is preferred but 10W30 may be used at temps above 0°(-18°C). So I wouldn't worry at all if you need to go to it. See p 6-13 here https://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/...owners-manual/

 

I am so glad to have Your support here
First things first.
As for SES and P1345 cam/crank retard code I took the routine as we discussed. A negative reading of 18.2 degree in Car Gauge Pro was compensated by advancing a distributor (clockwise) by one tooth. Cleared codes within app, P1345 is gone.
As for the oil, I can be more accurate here. Actually, I haven't find the LOP amongst the data retrieved by dongle, so I am referring to the analogue gauge in kPa. A real PITA to calculate the 34kPa per single bar and convert the result to PSI.
I have 5W30 already:
- cold engine 49.7 PSI idle 625rpm
- engine in a cloosed loop (warmed coolant) around 70 centigrades, 550 rpm - 38..39 PSI
I've been referring these values to the service manual of a GM Vortec and seem to be well above the limits. The engine seem to truly have that 78k miles only.

By the way, I have a question regarding CSFI/MPFI conversion. I still do have the old one. On idle RPMs I have the engine fluctuating around 620-625 rpms. It sounds like a slightly uneven operation (had that symptom on both engines, but both shared the same CSFI unit). I wonder if that symptom may be a result of the mechanical assembly of the CSFI that is known highly dependent to the input fuel pressure?
My fuel trims are pretty good, +/- 2% on idle, on rapid increasing they do not exceed 10%. Is it worth converting the spider assembly to MPFI?
Cheers, Mike

 

Looks like you have a good one! What is your cam sensor retard now?

If your SES light is off at this point, maybe you can avoid the cost and trouble of doing the crank sensor relearn. Display all misfire counters in scanner and pull off each plug wire one at a time. If counts increase rapidly on the cylinder that you have disconnected, and not when plug wire is hooked up, then I would say that crank sensor relearn is not necessary. Please know that Car Gauge Pro has two cylinders switched in misfire counters (at least it is on my 2001) - #1cyl and #2cyl. But if you ever start getting a P030x code, keep it in mind that no crank sensor relearn was ever done.

Probably you won't see much change when converting to MPFI, but one never knows. Pretty expensive to find out though!

Best wishes! I like a happy ending!!

 

I got a "zero" reading, no SES light. That is a happy ending of the day