Hi
Just blew one on my 95 4x4 vin w daily driver. Any tips on replacment and bleeding would be great!
Fourtunatly just landed a job after two years, need to get er fixed by Mon. Any input would be great. I don't have the time to read every post that has ''Rear brake cylinder" and ''Brake bleeding" in it as I did in the past.
Most helpfull would be bolts that will be seized or a bear. How to stop brakelines from spinning. Should I do both sides. Should I buy brake lines at parts when I'm there. Best stuff to clean shoes on the one that blew, they are new. Last but not least, best way to one man bleed. All "friends" have plans for the weekend.
Thanks Everyone, Jeff aka Spittybays!

 

Spray bolts down NOW with penetrant & again in the morning before you go to get the cylinder. Have a pipe you can use as an extension/breaker bar for the wrench for the bolts IF they are that bad. 2 wrenches should hold the brake lines & if you're replacing shoes & boots (not sure if a '95 has rear discs) replace both sides.
You can hit up Harbor Freight or any local Ma & Pa auto parts place & get a 1 man bleeder kit for around $10.
While you're there grab a can of brake cleaner for $4
I'm still not sure what you mean by brake lines spinning. The nut/connector where the brake line hooks up to the cylinder should turn around the line & not with it.
If you have the E brake with discs at the rear there's also the clip that holds the parking/e brake shoe in place. Get a pair of those because they're probably going to break because of corrosion when you pull the brakes off. They're cheap but you may have to get them in a kit for around $12 or so.

 

Yea Rotti these are drums, think it was the last year. The spinning I refered to is that connection point at the nut connector. I have had them stick and the entire line twists and becomes a little twisted garden hose, think I will pick up two just in-case. Return if the ones that are there look and come off ok. I have been told that the only way to make the fluid saturated shoes usable again was to soak them overnight in lacquer thinner. Not so sure that's true, the guy brews his own beer, drinks it then has quiet a bit to say on just about any topic. Do you think two containers of fluid will due for the bleed job. It's going to be one trip to the parts store with the wifes car then I'll be begging rides. As always souds like PB Blast will be my best friend. Thanks for getting back.......

 

A quart of brake fluid should do it but buy a smaller container as well just in case & return it later.
Remember that when bleeding brakes you start at the wheel furthest away from the reservoir. So you'll bleed the rear PS 1st, then the rear DS, front PS & finally front DS.
I've never heard of soaking them in lacquer thinner/gun wash. It would have to be in a sealed container because the liquid would evaporate over night. Doesn't sound like such a good idea.
MP & good luck!

 

make sure you pinch off the rubber line coming down to the axle to prevent access brake fluid from coming out. you dont want to get any air in the lines use hose clamp pliers or vice grips. what ive been doing alot lately is use ratchet straps on both brake shoes on top to just barely pull them away from the wheel cylinders. that way you dont have to remove the shoes

 

Happy Fathers! Turns out cracked brake line right near backing plate. Right now installing new lines. I know the proportioning valve popped, felt it when the line broke. I have read this blazerforum.com/forum/general-chat-34/no-fluid-47695/ If anyone has anything to add or summarize that would be great!
Thanks again. PShttps://blazerforum.com/forum/general-chat-34/no-fluid-47695/

 

If you're planning on keeping the vehicle for any length of time, it would be a good idea to repair the root cause rather than just replace the wheel cylinder. There are two things that cause a wheel cylinder to blow: 1) the backing plates wear on the shoe lands and it allows the shoes to fall inboard.




2) the backing plate rusts out and the wheel cylinder either moves or falls off. In either case, once the web of the shoe loses contact with the wheel cylinder piston, when you step on the brakes, the piston blows out. GM has used this exact style drum brake system on several models since the mid 70's. It's a very common issue if the backing plates are not lubricated at each brake job. When the new shoes are installed, the web of the shoe must be centered on the wheel cylinder piston. If not, the backing plates need replacement. Dorman 13867 - Dorman Drum Brake Backing Plates - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

never heard of soaking shoes either. either by a new set or spray down with brake cleaner. its the rear so its not the brute force of the system. if it were the front pads id by new no matter what. wheel cylinders are cheap so just replace it. if the bolts snap no biggy just replace. the lines for the age you will get stuck replacing. you may get stuck doing both rears if they are corroded enough.

do not let the master cylinder go dry!!

hook is right, they seldem just blow. do your shoes even have enough material on them? do your old cylinders rubber boots look cracked or rotted? is the drum itself still with in spec?

once you get it all together just leave the bleeder open and keep master full. once you see fluid start to drip.(maybee an hour? helps to get the front higher than the rear) start the normal bleeding process. only problem is if you got air elswere.

dont let the master go dry! if it does definatly do not hit that brake pedal!!!!!!!!

 

If the shoes have fluid on them, they're junk, replace them. If you don't, they'll lock up and/or be real "touchy" when you apply the brakes. $20 for a set of shoes, it ain't worth messing with them.

 

Thanks, all. Brake line had a pinhole right next to the backing plate. Replaced both lines and inspected all interior parts. Everything A-OK. No fluid on shoes, cleaned and adjusted. With "flim" being so cheap photoed every step of dis-assembly. Came in very handy with the springs for a drum brake novice. Proportioning valve reset was a bit of a trick. Seems like everyone has an idea but no-one ever get's back with what worked for them.
Here is what worked for me. Motor off. Gravity bled rears, locked them down, cracked one front, slowly pressed pedal. On second pump felt it snap over and brake light went off. Three or four pumps later no bubbles in clear line to jar of fluid. Locked front bleeder.
Brakes now seem good but I would like to know what is the test for a "Clean Bleed"? Currently motor off, pedel holds hard halfway down on second pump. Thank's again.