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Please Help! 98 Blazer o2 codes, Bout to drive it off a cliff

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  #11  
Old 03-22-2012, 11:41 PM
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It's open. again. got the fuel regulator off. it has a screen and a little gromet, a big robber grommet, and a hard plastic ring. THe one I just bought does not have the hard plastic ring. the other regulator I had originally from the truck did have this ring. Is it needed? SHould I replace it? Did I get gyped from the store?
 
  #12  
Old 03-23-2012, 01:07 AM
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Default I've just about had it. Must have done something wrong

new fuel pressure regulator in.
Spiders looked a little wet underneath, on the lines, not sure if they were leaking again or if it was the fuel pressure regulator spewing. put the whole thing back together in record time, start the sucker up the fuel pressure is totally jacked.

When I turn key to on and let pump pump, I get 75+ psi, but then it slowly goes down. I am not sure if that is what it is supposed to do. When I turn the car on it stays at 85-90. Much steadier this time around, no 15 psi swings.

Should the car be run for a certain amount of time to get accurate readings after a change like this?

I suppose maybe I just didn't rebuild the injectors properly, or maybe one or more of them are clogged. I didn't have a good way to clean them out and check them. I saw some writeups about building a machine to power them on and test the flow but that seems a little bit overkill. I suppose I can just wait till I can afford the new new spider injector. I am just so pissed off right now I want to throw a brick through the windshield. I already have the safety cert.
 
  #13  
Old 03-23-2012, 01:46 AM
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Default new symptom / problem

rpm gauge went all the way up on fuel pressure test, now it is stuck all the way up...hmmm....certainly time for beer.
 
  #14  
Old 03-23-2012, 03:33 PM
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Default Update. I think I should give up and work on my Xterra.

Which brings us to the update:

Originally Posted by dropwiser
Update: So at this point I have:

Replaced: Cap, Rotor, Wires, Oil, Oil Filter, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, seals, (Rebuilt) Injectors.

I started it up with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up (is that a bad thing to do?) and I was getting high Pressure on key engine off, about 80 psi, then draining down to nothing. Tried it again with same result. Cranked engine and psi went up to 100 then hovered about 85 psi.

Took everything off to expose the spider, assuming I still had a leaky injector and or the FPR I got from autozone was bad. Rehooked up fuel lines, pressurized the system key on engine off, no leaks. nothing. plugged in pressure tester and the pressure was hovering at about 50 psi. Totally opposite of what we want. one thing we realized is fuel lines went into meter body really easy this time. Because of that, we are going to replace those seals again incase that is where we are having a pressure problem. We also pulled all the popits out of holes while system was pressurized and none were leaking from the ends. I am not sure how to tell if they are clogged. If they were clogged would that make pressure go up or down?

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  #15  
Old 03-23-2012, 04:51 PM
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Rehooked up fuel lines, pressurized the system key on engine off, no leaks. nothing. plugged in pressure tester and the pressure was hovering at about 50 psi. Totally opposite of what we want. one thing we realized is fuel lines went into meter body really easy this time
.


I have no clue what your talking about this sounds exactly like what you want.
 

Last edited by spittybays; 03-23-2012 at 04:56 PM.
  #16  
Old 03-23-2012, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by spittybays
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I have no clue what your talking about this sounds exactly like what you want.
It was my understanding that when the key is turned on but the car isn't started the psi should be about 60, then drop a bit when car is started. I read that in book and in other threads. Ours stayed at 50ish psi for a few and then slowly went down. much faster than it should. My understanding was that it should stay pressurized for at least 10 minutes.

My confusion I suppose is that the pressure was too high, but wouldn't hold when everything was put together, but pressure seemed too low but held slightly longer when the plenum was taken off to check for leaks. I suppose opposite was the wrong word to use. just not quite right
 
  #17  
Old 03-25-2012, 05:19 PM
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Default Ticking Clock is counted down I'm F%$#D

well temp tags are up. Check engine light keeps coming on. Now fuel psi is way high when running, like 80. Think it must be the FPR that I just replaced. Am out of other ideas. My only thought though is that it wasn't leaking at all when I turned on ignition with lines hooked up and plenum cover off. Funny enough, trying to start it with no cover just about killed my wife's eardrums, but also fixed the rpm gauge. Never saw any leaks. I syuppose one of the injectors i rebuilt is clogged. Now I have no registered cars...hmmm, i wonder what a case of beer at the IM place would do...not fix my frickin 10 mpg, but make it so I don't get car impounded for not being registered.
 
  #18  
Old 03-25-2012, 06:11 PM
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Okay... so youve had how many regulators run at 80 lbs?

You are the first one I've seen on here with TOO high pressure since June of last year. Now let's stop and think.. the regulator does its job, how? What is the purpose of that other line? To return excess fuel If the regulator hold 60 engine off but runs 80 lbs engine running you have something basic hooked up wrong.
 
  #19  
Old 03-25-2012, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pettyfog
Okay... so youve had how many regulators run at 80 lbs?

You are the first one I've seen on here with TOO high pressure since June of last year. Now let's stop and think.. the regulator does its job, how? What is the purpose of that other line? To return excess fuel If the regulator hold 60 engine off but runs 80 lbs engine running you have something basic hooked up wrong.
THank you for your comments and thoughts.


Right now the 3rd regulator is in the thing. First one came with the car,

#1 FPR:

The dealer said: "Checked misfire data found cyl 5&6 were mising. checked fuel pressure found over 80 psi at test port spec is 50. Fuel pressure Refulator is needed for the high pressure concern. New fuel injectors are needed for the misfire. Also a new fuel level sending unit is needed"

#2 FPR:

so not knowing how the injectors worked, etc, I called local junk yard and asked if they had a working set of these. they said they did. I asked about fpr, they said it comes with one. I got it for $35, rebuilt the injectors with kit from autozone, and hooked the sucker up. Oh, i might have royally messed something up here because i opened the fpr to look at it (the screen was so obviously warped in the one I took out of the car, I was just curious as to what this one looked like.) My wife tells me I probably caused that one to go bad from opening it.


#3 FPR:
So Fuel pressure was still up, I called autozone and asked for a fpr, bought it and installed it. It seemed different from the oem, it was missing a rivited plastic washer about 3mm thick. I was curious about that, but whatever. That one came in the box open a little. When we installed it, it seemed like the clamp left too much space between the spider and the regulator.

So here I am. Is it odd to go through 3? Yes. I know stats. 1st, 100% probability of being bad, based on looking at it, 2nd I might have messed up or might have been bad because it was used, so 50% probability, and 3rd was from autozone. In my thread searches on this problem I came across some in the 1st gen that complained about getting bad FPR's from autozone. I hear about bad thermostats which is why I test them before I put them in. so maybe 75% probability.


Is there a way to test the FPR?

I appreciate your comments and thoughts on this frusterating matter.

Do you have any suggestions about what could have been put together wrong, or could cause this problem?

Maybe the person before me messed something up. Could the wrong fuel pump do this? Generally toast engine? Could a clogged injector cause a rise in fuel pressure? I have been searching this all over this forum and other types of cars and other forums. I've got a forsale sign on the beast now.

Guy said it's been sitting for 2 years, maybe it is the same truck as you mentioned. I just don't know, and am willing to try one more time with #4 because the odds of that one being bad would be not astronomical, but whatever the odds really are of getting a bad one from autozone.

If I take it back to dealer with this story they will want to redo everything I have done with a new aftermarket spider. Maybe that is best, just not for my wallet.

Thanks again for any comments or suggestions.
 

Last edited by dropwiser; 03-25-2012 at 09:23 PM.
  #20  
Old 03-25-2012, 09:30 PM
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I think to start with you should make sure the return line is clear. 80 lbs is about as if it was blocked.
 


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