Dead head pressure needs to be 73psi to 108psi and it must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. Your maximum pump output pressure is low and the check valve in the pump is leaking. You need a new fuel pump.

The 60psi reading you had at the service port, is regulated pressure which is borderline low. Regulated presure needs to be 60psi to 66psi. The erratic leakdown results are due to the check valve not sealing properly each time. Both problems can cause low regulated pressure. Don't waste your time or money on an aftermarket fuel pump, get an AC Delco or Delphi pump only. After replacement, check regulated pressure and leakdown again, at the service port, and post your results.

 

thanks for your help, i really appriciate it, im gonna try the fuel pump

 

If your test results are accurate, there ain't no "try" about it. The pump is bad and needs to be replaced

 

but would the pump being bad cause all the problems that are intermitten, and all the bogging down when the truck warms up, i dont understand why it doesnt do it all the time versus part of the time if its the fuel pump going bad, if its bad its bad right ??

 

Pumps can be very erratic while they're in the process of failing, or they can crap all at once, it just depends what the problem is. Could be a bad spot in the armature of the motor, could be a poor connection at or in the motor, could be a problem with the check valve not sealing every time, etc etc. Some things may be intermittent when cold, some after it heats up.

 

****Its the CM that is mounted on the heat sink right at the top passenger side of the engine.( Aluminum heat sink...cant miss it..right at the top. the icm is attached to it)

Buy a new one($74), and buy the silver heat paste at radio shack ($14).
take the whole assamble ( heat sink and CM mod) off the braket its mounted to because this is the cause of the problem. The bracket is mount to the engin and IT conducting heat back up from the engine causes all the problems.

After replacing the CM and applying the new heat paste, tye wrap the entire thing on the cables coming from the gas peddle to the top of the engine that are right in front of it , in such a manner that the air flow from the radiator will run down the length of the heat sink fins.

Simply tye wrapping will work fine and there is just enough length on the wires to the CM to allow it to reach.

This WILL finally solve this vexing problem. Simply put it is a design fault.
The CM is heat sensitive and is mounted to a heat sink. the problem is the bracket that ITS mounted to is hotter than hades and conducts the heat back into the CM via the heat sink.....crazy but do what I suggest and THAT problem is fixed...