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Project RED: 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

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Old 12-03-2018, 08:16 PM
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Default Project RED: 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

Hey there. I recently acquired a 1997 Blazer which will require some work to be road worthy. As such, I am making this thread as a comprehensive thread for what I'm calling: Project RED (So called because it's Red in color. And because I've already bled on it. But I digress.

So here's what I'm looking at as far as known issues:

-Power steering is non-functional. Was pissing Power Steering fluid anytime it ran, and will need replacement.
-E-brake gets stuck, specifically stuck activated, and doesn't always release.
-Rear hatch, according to owner I bought it from, opens with the key fob, but does not open otherwise.

Any help looking into those would be appreciated.

Now, a question. It appears the previous owner put in an aftermarket transmission oil cooler, and hooked the transmission lines into just this aftermarket cooler. However, the engine oil is hooked up too the radiator on the driver's side. I'm not used to this or seeing this in previous cars I've seen. Would the radiator, from factory, pulled triple duty of acting as an Engine Oil, Transmission Oil, and Engine coolant radiator? I ask, because there is a hookup on the passenger side which looks like an oil line connector for say, the transmission lines. But it is not currently hooked up to anything. On the Driver side though, lines extend from above where the oil filter sits, into the radiator.

Thanks a bunch! Will post a secondary message with some pictures of the vehicle!

-Border
 
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:27 PM
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As promised, some photos:



Photos after the tow truck brought it home and I limped it up the driveway.


The engine Bay. Standard 4.3L V6. Mated to an Automatic



Some images of the interior. Other than being dirty, mostly in good shape!


Bonus: Has a Trailer brake controller!


The Aftermarket Intercooler I mentioned which the Transmission lines go to. I recognize it as the cheap on you can get from O'reillys.


I'm told by a friend this is a "Vacuum Tank"? I've not owned a car with one of these before. Has just a single small hose coming out of it, though it's damaged and will need replacement.
 
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Old 12-03-2018, 09:42 PM
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yup radiator is triple duty from factory - remote trans cooler would be fine as long as it can get air flow - and yup round ball is a vacuum reserve can
 

Last edited by odat; 12-03-2018 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:23 PM
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Good to know! Thanks odat! Not seen that before on a car, learn something new eveyday~!

Next and (possibly stupidest) question: the keys came with factory fobs, but the buttons are worn out so I don't know which do which. Anyone able to tell me?

Also: a friend of mine told me that EGRs on these engines tend to Need regular maintenance and replacement, but they make aftermarket ones with filters to help prevent clogging? Any recommendations?
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:18 AM
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Buttons on mine:
Top Left- Lock
Top Right- Unlock
Bottom Left- Horn
Bottom Right- Rear X 2
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:55 AM
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When the Meth Head transmission rebuild shot craps on my truck I decided to put on an external trans cooler. The mechanic who did the trans thinks all trucks should have them especially those that are used for towing.

Long story short we didn't reconnect the trans lines to the radiator and it runs find even in the cold weather we been having since early November.
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 12:04 PM
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Much obliged guys!

Timmins: I don't think I have a horn button, but the rest sound like they match up!

2001ZR2: I do agree towing trucks should have an Aux cooler. This one actually has a Trailer brake setup, so I'll be keeping a Aux cooler, just getting a much better one and having it be Aux, not the solo cooler.


Next Question! The previous owner installed some janky aftermarket mirrors that are WAY too small for this thing. I plan to reinstall original factory mirrors. Thing is, I keep finding options of "Powered w/o heat" and "Powered w/ Heat". How can I tell which I have? I know they're powered because I have buttons on the driver door for it. But when I cracked into the panel to find the wires, all I found was what I will post below:


I'm assuming these are the mirror wires, as they were near the area and the only ones disconnected. Can anyone inform me which mirrors I had by these wires, maybe?

Thanks a bunch!
 
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Old 12-08-2018, 05:54 PM
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I looked at the relative size and cooling capacity of the cooler with and without the one in the radiator. Knew I was getting better cooling than stock so I decided to just go with the cooler in front of the condenser and radiator.

Either way is fine so if connecting to the radiator is a pain I wouldn't worry. The clips they use for the lines into the radiator can pop loose so make sure to go to the dealer if you decide to use them. Had a crappy one pop off on the highway.
 
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Old 03-14-2020, 09:45 AM
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Realized I made this thread and never updated it. So here's the long form update:

As of this message, she has been repaired and made road legal. There were many, MANY headaches, not the least of which being a misfire during the colder days only, regardless of engine temp. Still yet to figure this out, but with everything else I have done, my next repair with that will be replacing the Spider Injectors.

What has since been replaced is:
  • The ENTIRE Brake system. Lines, calipers, Master Cylinder, ABS module, Drum brake hardware, you name it. Everything from tip to stern has been replaced. Took a few months to I think "Purge" air out of the ABS module, but she is now solid as a rock when breaking, with no sponginess.
  • The Fuel tank, Fuel Pump, and that annoying valve at the front of the tank. This was the repair that nearly broke me. Having to replace that valve SIX TIMES because of the plastic breaking constantly, and then damaging the tank in such a way that fuel would pour out from it if filled too much. She now has a brand new tank and everything to be safe. Fuel filter also replaced.
  • Rear Wiper and liftgate now work perfectly. Took a bit of zip tie magic to make the liftgate work, but it's all good.
  • Major rust hole bigger than my hand has been replaced. It was on the passenger side rear wheel well, inside the door. Bondo and some "Color Match" paint did wonders... sorta. First time painting so clear coat blend is soooorta peeling. *Shrug*
  • Alternator replaced after it started making a HORRIBLE grinding noise at 1.5-2K RPMs in low speeds.
  • Cat Converter replaced after the interior grenaded itself. Muffler and tailpipe also replaced.
  • Steering column replaced after breaking the plastic **** that the ignition cylinder slips into >___>
  • Window lock switch replaced to fix all the windows and get them to roll down from not just driver side
  • Ball joints replaced alongside Idler arm after a shop told me they couldn't do an alignment due to them being bad. (Somehow I didn't notice...?)
  • Lower Manifold gasket, T-stat, Waterpump, EGR, Radiator, Power Steering Pump, Power Steering lines -- All replaced.
  • Keyfob replaced and programmed successfully to have functional fob.

    She's been on the road since November and honestly? She's a solid, rugged truck. I'm impressed. Photos to follow in another post.
 
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Old 03-14-2020, 09:49 AM
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A More modern photo of her. She cleans up kinda nice after a few washes. And I really like the 'Candy Apple'(?) color.

Old fuel tank.

New Fuel Tank.





Gotta love Bondo.

Overall, I'm impressed. She's got her fair share of headaches, and I question some of GM's design choices from this era... but I'm impressed.

Gonna be tackling the Valve cover gaskets today. She's developed a substantial oil leak and a pool of oil on the intake near the Distributor.
 


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