I was on my way to get an inspection done when the brakes got mushy. The left rear brake line is leaking. Not surprising since it’s very rusty under there. I removed the defective line and will replace it with one from another blazer. My question is do I need to bleed all four wheels, rear only, or just the one I replaced?

The master still has fluid in it. If I have to bleed one or all, do I just follow the procedures I read here? That is, do a gravity bleed keeping the master full until clear fluid comes out the bleeder screw.

Is the bleeder screw above the brake line with a nipple on it? It looks like I could put tubing on that and check for bubbles.

Can you tell I’ve never done this before?

 

I would definetly bleed them all. You want to start on the wheel furthest away from the master. Rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. It sounds like a lot but once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quick. You can reach the bleaders without removing the wheels.

The bleader is the nut with a nipple that doesn't have any lines going to it. I haven't read the procedures here but knowing the knowledgable guys here I'm sure its right.

 

OK, cat. Thanks for the quick response. I have the replacement line off and will proceed to put it on and follow your "bleedin" advice.

 

I forgot what size the bleed screw is, hit em with some pb blaster, sometimes they can get kinda locked up.and keep an eye on the master!

 

Yea I don't know what the socket size was originally, but after scraping off the rust an 8mm 6 point worked perfectly. I sprayed PB Blaster earlier and they loosened right up. Unfortunately I got interrupted and haven't had time to bleed them yet. Hopefully this afternoon.

 

Glad to hear, the hard part is over then lol. All down hill from there.

 

Well, 50lb_cat, maybe not. I thought I bled enough fluid out the rear wheels, but the flow was very slow. At least compared to the front wheels. Never having done this before, I don't know what I'm looking for. It doesn't look like the fluid in the master cylinder went down enough to match how much came out at the wheels. I did a test drive and the brakes worked, but they don't feel right. And I think the pedal goes down too far.

Also the cover on the master cylinder is distorted. I've attached a picture of it. Is this a symptom of something I need to correct?

 

Ok, are the brakes better than previously? Did you bleed each wheel until clean fluid came out? Have you checked the lines for any kinks in them?

I'm not sure what would cause the master to warp like that. It may be part of the problem. Brakes are a closed system, is it sealing ok? If its letting air in then need to change it.

 

There was a big improvement after I replaced the leaky left rear brake line. I just bled them until there was no air coming out. That is what I interpreted "clear" to be. Should I basically bleed until all old fluid is flushed out?

The brake lines look good, no kinks that I am aware of. However, I am going to bleed again and this time remove the rear screws and clean them. The rear ones seemed to bleed real slow.

I have another seal and cover to try on the master cylinder.

 

Its not warped or anything, it just came off the cap. just put it back on the cap and then put it back on. It comes off easily. you may have to bleed them again cause it didnt seal right. And to tell if you did it right, turn off your car and pump them until the assist goes away. if you can still press it some what easily you didnt get all of the air out. It should be fairly firm. If you still cant get it have some one you know check it out or take it somewhere.