Quick starter replacement question...
#43
Okay, took it to a shop... didn't ask them how they got it in, but they did. Now, for one more thing-- how do I tell if the starter needs to be shimmed? I swear, maybe it's my imagination, but the starter seems to have a higher pitch than usual... it isn't binding, but just a higher whine when I crank her... is that normal?
#44
I have a 93 s10 blazer, ive been trying to remove the starter for a couple hours getting very frustrated. I have the wires disconnected but there isnt enough length to move the starter either toward the front of the vehicle or to lift up and rotate as all the other threads suggest. I cant get the nipple shaped end of the starter out of the housing. Any suggestions? do i need to loosen the motor mounts, or unbolts something to move this booger around? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#46
It's all good info above; the "rotate the ENTIRE STARTER 180 degrees while still inside engine compartment" in order to yank it (idea) is crucial.
One last thing:
Found myself eventually placing my entire torso between (inside) the hub/caliper-and-wheel-well area, and then grasping (maneuvering) the Starter Assembly all-the-while HOLDING IT with my LEFT hand -- from below -- and using right hand for end wrench(s) (except w/r/t two big thru-bolts which is obviously accomplished lying down).
MY HAND/FINGERS ARE TOO BIG! TO GO (completely) INTO WHEEL WELL even with the flap ripped wide open.
So I used DeepCreep/PB Blaster and the 8mm and 13mm from outside --- AND FINALLY -- an EXTENSIBLE MAGNET (to begin to) affix the small nuts/washers.
"rotate the ENTIRE STARTER 180 degrees while still inside engine compartment" before attempting to remove. Yes!
The 1/100th inch R&I tolerance was only achieved after teasing it in every angle imaginable... About 2-3 minutes of intense anxiety -- then -- if PERFECTLY positioned at a strange/odd angle -- slides right out of the truck.
One last thing:
Found myself eventually placing my entire torso between (inside) the hub/caliper-and-wheel-well area, and then grasping (maneuvering) the Starter Assembly all-the-while HOLDING IT with my LEFT hand -- from below -- and using right hand for end wrench(s) (except w/r/t two big thru-bolts which is obviously accomplished lying down).
MY HAND/FINGERS ARE TOO BIG! TO GO (completely) INTO WHEEL WELL even with the flap ripped wide open.
So I used DeepCreep/PB Blaster and the 8mm and 13mm from outside --- AND FINALLY -- an EXTENSIBLE MAGNET (to begin to) affix the small nuts/washers.
"rotate the ENTIRE STARTER 180 degrees while still inside engine compartment" before attempting to remove. Yes!
The 1/100th inch R&I tolerance was only achieved after teasing it in every angle imaginable... About 2-3 minutes of intense anxiety -- then -- if PERFECTLY positioned at a strange/odd angle -- slides right out of the truck.
Last edited by mojarraman; 01-25-2019 at 05:01 PM. Reason: typo
#48
I replaced the starter on my 03 a few weeks ago, it was my first time doing a starter replacement. In all honesty it wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be, since there are a lot of threads here with people having trouble getting it out. It took about five minutes of rotating and finding the correct angle in order to remove it. Don't get frustrated and give up too soon! The hardest part of the job was disconnecting the solenoid/battery connections. And then getting in there to clean them before connecting them to the new starter. From start to finish (including jacking up truck and removing/replacing wheel) it took me about two hours. I'm sure people here have done it way quicker than that but like I said it was my first time and I was happy with how the job turned out.
#49
When I did mine, it was NOT coming out. Argued and cussed that thing for an hour, finally went inside for the day. Went out the next day, and the damn thing nearly hit me in the face as it fell out. It's gotta be at the exact perfect angle
#50
"The hardest part of the job was disconnecting the [Two total] solenoid/battery connections"
Yes.
I think the blue-book is 0.9 hours. I think the guy-at-shop did it :45 minutes. I'm QUITE slow/methodical and a pure shade-tree -- so took me maybe near 2 hours w/ smoke break or two lol
I sprayed clean in there w/ some brake clean day-before like suggested.
If anybody (kindly) sees this again, Quick Q:
it was oily down there, and shop last year looked quick and (incidentally) quipped: "LIKELY oil-line(s) to radiator leak". And is likely one, or both, or (any liklihood) which of two?
So, CAN those ever be fixed by just tightening (aprox. 150k miles)? Any odds, Lol? Could post "elsewhere," but thought I'd give quick inquiry here to start. Thanks kindly.