When I pulled the axles out, both had wear from the bearings. I did not measure the difference, just put new bearings and seals in, poured some lube on the bearings and re-installed the axles. Have only driven about 200 miles now, but no leaks, no noise, all seems good. My Blazer only has 147k on it it, 55k miles less than yours.

I would just re-use the axles.

 

Howdy,
I have a set of new a dust shields for the rear axles. I've been reading this topic and I'm wondering if getting the axles with bearings out is a good idea... They have a snug fit and I have doubts, that re-assembling the axles may affect them. Maybe it would be wiser to cut these and weld (like the Doorman split set)? What would u advice?

Cheers, Mike

 

What I learned is that the induction hardening process on the axle bearing surface is only at the surface. That's why in the early part of the wear process you see thin missing chunks around the surface and underneath you see pitting and porous metal. I don't know how long it takes for the balance of this hardened surface to deteriorate and get the accelerated wear like I saw on the first shaft but once that happens then the seal will leak and that side will be a mess like the first side, losing gear oil, staing everybodies driveway and trashing the brakes. I ultimately decided to replace the other axle because I don't want to redo all this work for another 200,000 miles. ;=) BTW, the current AC Delco bearing is the exact same USA Koyo made original as opposed to say a National bearing which is made in China.

George

 

Bearings will stay in the ends of the rear housing. Axles slide out easily once you take the c-clips off the inside end, after pulling the rear differential cover and removing the cross-shaft. Axles and bearings will be unaffected.

A tip - If your shields are rusted off, you may want to make sure you can actually get the drain plug out of the differential housing before removing the rear cover. It can get rusted in pretty badly and you will need to add rear end lube when finished.

 

Many thanks Les for sharing Your experience! I'll start with the plug then

 

You are most welcome, and please note that I should have called it a fill plug (not drain plug). I had to fill mine up by putting a specific amount of rear end lube through the tiny vent tube in the top of the axle, after replacing the rear differential cover gasket and doing the job you are speaking about. Mine was rusted in horribly and I could not get it to break loose laying on my back in my garage. With a hoist and a torch it would have been different!

 

Many of the crosses for axles, bearings and seals are wrong for a 2002 G80 locker, RWD, disk brake truck. Pull the parts first for measurements and visual before ordering. This saved me many headaches. BTW, my set up is a 7.625 differential.

I used Yukon axles (made in USA, upgraded hardness), AC Delco bearing (USA made Koyo same as original) and an AC Delco seal matched through pictures, measurements and old part numbers on the originals.

George

 

About ready to push this Blazer into the swamp.
97' 4x4, drum brakes.
Pulled the axle to fix seal leak, decided to go with a new axle, which came with a new bearing and seal.
Old axle had a "repair bearing" installed, and I can't get it out. It seems the repair bearing goes all the way in to the shoulder in the axle tube, and it's impossible to get a puller behind it. I'm at the point where I'm thinking of sawing a slot in the bearing race to collapse it and get it out that way. I risk putting a cut in the axle tube though, making a built-in leak. 97' Blazer 4x4 axle tube with repair bearing race stuck inside.

 

I would use a torch if I had one. So I use a hot air gun. It saved me in a similar situations.

 

I used a slide hammer with these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Rear-Ax...ller.TRS0.TSS0

George