Hi

When a rear caliper on a 2005 - 4 wheel disc brake chev is seized do you have to replace it? I heard you can work it back and forth and sometimes unseize it?

True?

Lastly, both my rear pads require changing and one of them has the seized caliper. I assume just replace both?

When doing so you would replace one caliper and then bleed the brakes following the right starting and ending point right?

Or would you replace both then bleed? I know the first and last wheels to start at already.

 

The calipers should be replaced every time you service the rear brakes. The calipers are aluminum, the pistons are steel, the fluid is hygroscopic, (attracts water). This combination causes rust and corrosion to form inside the caliper. After you replace the calipers, open the bleeders one at a time and let them gravity bleed for ~5 minutes per side. Do not pump the pedal. After both sides have gravity bled, slowly push the pedal down and slowly release it, repeat until the pedal is firm. Have an assistant hold pressure on the pedal while you quickly open and close the bleeder, don't allow the pedal to go to the floor. Repeat on the other side. Top off the master cylinder.... done. Don't allow the master cylinder to go dry. If it goes dry, you'll need an ABS capable scan tool to perform the automated bleed.

 

Does one ever turn the rotors on the rear?

Is there a measurement?

I assume same method of bleeding for front, nothing out of the usual for those guys versus the rear?

 

With the price of rotors nowadays, it's hardly worth it to machine them. The front calipers are cast iron with two steel pistons. They're not as bad as the rears. Both pistons need to be pushed in simultaneously, if they bind at all, replace the caliper. Same program for bleeding the front.... gravity. When the fluid drips out clear, with no bubbles, close the bleeder.

 

thanks so much for the reply! At over $837 for the rear's to be done this is why I ask. And $700 for the fronts seems excessive. I've done disc's and calipers before on an old power brake system car but thought antilock brakes would introduce something radical. BUT I UNDERSTAND do not let the reservoir go dry or I will have to drive it to a shop to use that auto bleed tool !!!

Up in canada it's:
$32 to turn a rotor and $69 for new ( rear ) $100 a caliper and labour.

What do you use to lubricate a caliper out of curiosity?

I notice the rear brake caliper has the e-brake adjustment area in it. Is there a concern with that? Meaning anything I should know before doing this?

Lastly I've bled brakes before and know how to use the two person method.

So I'm the squeelers on the rear, is there any chance the calipers could lock up and cause me an accident?

I am addressing them in a week's time.

 

Do it yourself, honestly, Its super simple, and you will save yourself so much money.

 

Here is a remanufactured rear caliper with the bracket and hardware: Fenco Brake Caliper with Mounting Bracket-SLC629 - Advance Auto Parts

The guides should already have lube in them. If not, use a synthetic brake grease. Unbolt the old caliper & bracket, bolt on the new one, swap the line & bleed, nothing to it. Maximum half hour a side.

The park brake, if you decide to do it, isn't bad as long as you replace the shoe and the hardware. Lotta times the backing plate rots out and needs replacement, and that is a chore! Park brake adjustment is tricky so let us know when you're ready to do it.

 

Hey I really appreciate your time helping me out.

I'm going to buy:

2 - new rotors
2 - new rebuilt calipers with all hardware
1 - set of brade pads

Going to buy C-Clamp tool

Do I need brake cleaner, antiseize grease or standard grease?

My procedure will be:

(open brake resevoir cap - check level that it is at full - make it full if not)

1- remove tire from RRH side
2 - Remove brake pads, remove Caliper and let hang - label screws, clean and apply anti-seize grease
3 - Remove Caliper bracket - label screws, clean and apply anti-seize grease
4 - Remove rotor

Any thing else I should do at this point?


Re- install procedure

1 - Put new rotor on
2- put back on caliper bracket
3 - unhook rubber line from old caliper
4 - attach new copper oring to rubber line to new caliper
5 - Put new brake pads into new caliper - apply any grease anywhere?
6 - Attach parking brake assembly mechanism to new caliper - will wait till later to see if E-brake holds or not??
7- Put caliper on bracket, attach bolts
8 - loosen bleeder valve and let gravity feed for 5 mins - caliper will fill up and eventually bleed out valve. - wait until it does.

watch brake reservoir- fill as necesary

*** If nothing happens then

1 - Leave Valve closed
2 - pump brake pedal 3 times and hold on 3 at bottom
3 - Loosen brake valve, fluid should shoot out and and after it's done, close valve and tell person in car to release pedal

**repeat procedure 1-3 while checking reservoir and topping up as necessary.

Go to RLH side and repeat procedure minus the park brake.

This should handle the backs for now.

How does my plan sound?
I really appreciate the time and hope this post is used by others.

 

2 - new rotors
2 - new rebuilt calipers with all hardware and brackets
1 - set of good quality brake pads

Going to buy C-Clamp tool Don't need one, pry the piston in just far enough to remove the old caliper.

Do I need brake cleaner, antiseize grease or standard grease? Synthetic caliper grease

My procedure will be:

1- remove tire from RRH side
2 - Never let a caliper hang, it can damage the flex hose. Anti seize to guide pin threads only. Synthetic grease on the ends of the guide pins. Use a screwdriver to pry the piston in. Remove the flex line from the caliper, then unbolt the caliper bracket and remove as an assembly, (with pads still in the caliper). Once the flex line is disconnected, it will start dripping fluid. Install the new caliper ASAP, (have it ready to install when you remove the old one).
3 - Remove rotor


Re- install procedure

1 - Put new rotor on Clean it with brake clean first.

2- Put new brake pads into new caliper. Install the caliper, brackets & pads as an assembly & install bolts.

3 - Install 2 copper washers: one on each side of the banjo bolt. Tighten with a torque wrench to 13 ft lbs to crush the washers so they seal.

4 - Remove master cylinder cover. Loosen bleeder valve and let gravity bleed for 5 mins - caliper will fill up and eventually bleed out valve. Wait until fluid comes out with no bubbles, then close the bleeder.

watch brake reservoir- fill as necesary

*** If nothing happens then leave bleeder open and apply vacuum to bleeder until it starts to drip.

When done gravity bleeding:
1 - Slowly push pedal almost to the floor & slowly release, repeat until pedal is firm. Should take maybe 3 times.
2 - Apply pressure to pedal and open bleeder, watch for bubbles. Don't leave the bleeder open too long, (don't allow pedal to go to the floor). Do not release pedal until bleeder is closed. Repeat until no bubbles come out. Should take 1 maybe 2 times.


**check reservoir and topping up as necessary.

Repeat on the opposite side.

 

Cool, ordering parts now.

The calipers I order will have the connection for the parking brake I assume.