1. Turn steeringwheel to left

2. Get hay wire ready

3. Remove caliper (bolts) then slide pins (18mm) ( hold upcaliper with haywire don’t hurt hose)

4. Clean slide pins off and re-lube them using proper grease

5. Remove caliper mounting bracket bolts

6. Remove Rotor

7. Clean new rotor with brake cleaner, wipe off , both sidesand clean as best as possible

8. Install rotor and hook backup the clips that are aroundthe studs so it holds in place.

9. Remount caliperbracket and tighten bolts , order doesn’t matter torque to ? 55 lbs or REAL strong tighten

10. Insert new brake pads in after using CLAMP tocompress both pistons

11. Insert caliper back on careful not to ruin rotor

12. Tighten caliper bolts – torque setting? 55 lbs or REALSTRONG tighten

13. Install tire back on

14. Turn steering wheel to the right

15. Repeat procedureon left side

 

all done!!! went well thanks !

 

Don't they make a product specifically for pad squeal that goes on the rear of the pad and basically provides a "pillow" for the pad the set against so that it's not metal on metal vibrations causing the brake squeal that you hear? Called anti squeal or something? It's red, IIRC.

edit: It's called disc brake quiet.

I've also heard of lubing the contact point on the rear of the pad, as well.

 

Joe, step 8 is not necessary, throw the clips away. They are installed on the assembly line to keep the rotors from falling off while the vehicle moves along the line. When the wheels are installed, the rotors are sandwiched between the hub and the wheel.

Midnight, When the vehicle is built, there is nothing on the backs of the pads. All you need to use is good quality parts. Rotors need to cleaned before installing, and they must have a non-directional finish:


Pads need to be a quality name brand, not a parts store "house" brand. The
hardware needs to be replaced, the guide pins must be clean and lubed with disc brake lubricant. When the brake assembly is fully assembled, and the pistons are fully retracted, the caliper must slide inboard and outboard very easily with one hand.

 

Re: #8. - I really found when trying to put the whole caliper on with the bracket as a whole UNIT back on to the rotor without those HOLDERS is a pain in the ***.

I however was working on pavement not on a hoist. It really helped me not dent or scratch the brake pads when inserting however I don't do brakes a lot so i found them useful for me.

i never used grease , they don't squeal at all. compressing the cylinder did push a little fluid out of brake cylinder though so that was one thing - must of been over filled. While I had it jacked up on one side it looked low, my mistake filling it as it wasn't level when checking. so when i did the other side it leaked over.

 

Hi,

I notice after driving forawhile the pedal feel goes a bit soft. I park the car and push down the pedal and notice it does go down quite far, it isn't like scary holy crap no pedal feel but it isn't the same as the first minute of driving. You shouldn't be able to go past that certain level brake feel we all know.

So I parked it, left is running and then pumped the brake several times and it comes back. I never bled the front brakes as I never replaced the caliper. Should I go ahead and bleed them? It is quite warm out in summer now and the brake fluid has 115000km on it.

Any thoughts/ideas? Bleed all 4 until new fluid makes it way down the lines and is - clear to the view? No leaks at brake reservoir and it is topped up to level.

One thing I did notice while doing brakes.

When I was doing the first side of the FRONT and had it jacked up(only one side jacked up). I notice the reservoir looked low, not like bone dry or anything so I topped it up. Remember though before starting the job the brake fluid level was perfect on a level ground so it wasn't low/high prior to the job.

When I let the jack down and did the other side and was compressing the cylinder in fluid came out. I must of overfilled it. So I took some fluid out. Made sure it was level on ground and droppign jack down and fluid was just above max on the line.

I dont THINK AIR GOT IN? It shouldn't of!

 

Hi , Captain hook any idea? It's only after everything heats up that it gets a little more spongy.

Start with a bleed and do all 4's is the next step I assume?

 

Hi,

Just to close the loop on this, I went to a Shop and had them do a full brake fluid flush using the special tool they put on the brake reservoir that pushes all new fluid down.

NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE AND ONLY $120 taxes in.

The truck low longer has brake fade and has been working great now since, all break parts work great.

Make sure to change out the fluid either by bleeding or using the shop method above. Highly recommend it!!

 

Post #2 explains how to do a gravity bleed after replacing a caliper. That procedure works fine as long as the master cylinder doesn't run dry. If it runs dry, air is introduced into the EBCM and the ONLY way to expel it is by performing the automated bleed. The procedure that you described, (that the shop did), is typically called a "power bleed" and it will not remove the air in the EBCM. If/when the air bubble moves, the brakes will be spongy again.

 

I believe it's not metal on metal vibration making the noise. Any squealing comes from a glazed brake pad (one that has been overheated and the surface has become harder than how it was designed). This causes harmonic vibrations that cause squeal. This glazing can happen with excessive brake use and/or from the brake pad sitting up against the spinning rotor during non braking time. The goo holds the brake pads away from the rotor as you left off the brakes and the piston retracts a small amount. I've never researched this, just what I learned in the old days...as in the 90s...not the old old days