Rear Driver Wheel Noise!
#1
Rear Driver Wheel Noise!
Hey everyone, I've got yet another issue with the Blazer.
Rear brake pads were replaced three (3) weeks ago and when at higher speeds (55-65MPH+) there is an evident clunk/clack coming from rear driver tire area. It is harder to hear around when going 0-45mph unless next to another building or vehicle to amplify it. Kind of sounds like loose hub cap.
Lug nuts have been as well as the torque rating on brake components. It has newer calipers and redone rotors.
It had a very similar sound about a year ago after my mechanic changed calipers, but it was not this constant wheel revolted sounds, it was once every ten minutes or so of highway driving.
I have jacked it up and check for bearing play, but there is not. It is specifically coming from rear driver tire to help with possible solutions.
Thank you all very much as I want it to be safe and reliable.
Rear brake pads were replaced three (3) weeks ago and when at higher speeds (55-65MPH+) there is an evident clunk/clack coming from rear driver tire area. It is harder to hear around when going 0-45mph unless next to another building or vehicle to amplify it. Kind of sounds like loose hub cap.
Lug nuts have been as well as the torque rating on brake components. It has newer calipers and redone rotors.
It had a very similar sound about a year ago after my mechanic changed calipers, but it was not this constant wheel revolted sounds, it was once every ten minutes or so of highway driving.
I have jacked it up and check for bearing play, but there is not. It is specifically coming from rear driver tire to help with possible solutions.
Thank you all very much as I want it to be safe and reliable.
#2
It's possible that you have a brake line issue and the caliper does not have the full pressure it should pushing the pads against the rotor. A lot of times the rubber brake lines get "spongy" and when you applies brakes the other brakes are stopping the vehicle but on the driver side they are not making contact with the same force. The line bulges ever so slightly before you apply enough pressure (because you have come to a stop) for the one caliper to seat the pads as firmly as the rest are seated. You might try moving the truck at a snail speed and then really slamming on the brakes. That might help. Another thing, is if there is any air in the lines, it can cause the same results described above. Try gravity bleeding your brakes. Just open the bleeder valve (with a clear tube attached) and let the brake fluid flow on it's own without any mechanical assistance. Insure you are keeping the master cylinder full while it's bleeding.
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