I have a problem with the rear glass release button on the tailgate (2-piece) of my 2003 Blazer. Several months ago, the button began working intermittently, but the button on the dash was not affected and always works. Being a cheapskate, also with a lifetime of auto repair experience, I got into the tailgate and determined that the fault was poor contacts in the switch, which serves to complete the ground side of the circuit, thus activating the solenoid. With the switch disconnected, I determined with a continuity tester that the switch was only working sporadically. I disassembled the switch and cleaned it up, which worked out only for a couple of months. A while back I put in a new GM switch, and now, it too has begun acting up. My guess is that the contacts on the new switch are now dirty. I've had this truck for about 6 years, and this issue is relatively recent. It seems to me that there is little if any weather protection on this switch. As previously stated, the dashboard switch is 100% and I can actuate the latch solenoid in the gate by grounding the harness even when the switch won't work. I have never seen a cover, or "boot" of any kind on these switches. Can anyone offer any wisdom on this?

 

I think you got a bad switch. I replaced mine last year on a 2002. I got the switch at the Dealer and it did have a rubber flexable boot surrounding the back part where the wires exit the switch. The boot on my original switch was gone and I had the same symptoms you experienced. I don't have the part # handy but it was around $35.00 IIRC.

 

Have you checked the fuse. Mine acted up and it was the fuse.

 

Since this glass is part of the body integrety,look at the adjustment of the latch itself! Kind of wierd to adjust,but one can do it!

 

Thanks for the responses.

To Pewter2002- I have not been into the tailgate since I installed the new switch, so I don't remember whether there is a boot on it. You could be right, as the new switch worked well for several months, and gradually degraded to the current sporadic 3-out-of-4 operation. I did disassemble the original and the contacts inside were corroded. In any case, it seems a boot on the inside would not protect the contacts, which don't really have any weather protection.

To JCShelby- I think if the fuse or circuit were the problem, both the inside and outside switches would act up, and the interior switch has never failed. It is likely that our issues are not the same.

To step66- Interesting thought, but when the second switch was installed, after the old one had been failing to work more than half the time, the new one worked 100% for several months before starting to act up, first once in a while, and now, as mentioned, on a regular basis. I have isolated the fault to the switch itself, because the relay fires every time if the terminals on the switch connector are jumped, even with the gate open.

 

It is your switch, 99% sure. My previous description of the rubber boot at the back of it could have been better. It had a rubber flexible "membrane" surrounding the contact area and rear of the switch. The rubber on the old switch was gone and the contacts were open to the air. The new switch I installed is still working, but I know the design could be better. That "membrane" won't last long because it is very thin. Hope that helps.

 

Yes, I also am certain the switch is failing. The reason for my original post was to ask whether others have had this experience as well of a premature switch failure. I am a lifelong bowtie jockey, from Corvettes to 7500 trucks, and I do acknowledge, ahem, (occasional) lapses in design and/or execution from GM. But, I'm perverse enough to keep driving 'em.

 

I have a switch problem as well. My rear glass will pop open from the dash button and the key FOB but not from using the button on the tailgate. Looks like I will be replaceing the button/switch on the tailgate. This is on my 2000 GMC Jimmy Diamond Edition.

 

same here..im going to have to replace my button as well. dash switch has always worked perfect, tailgate switch has never worked since i got it, and its a bit frustating. is it a royal pita getting in there to change it out?

 

On my 2002, it wasn't bad, took ~ 20 minutes. Lower the tailgate, remove the screws, including the ones at both edges of the gate, holding the plastic panel in place. Remove the inside lift handle screws, pop the panel off. Then remove the screws holding the rectangular metal panel in place and remove the panel. You can now see the innards. A clip holds the switch in place, remove it, disconnect the harness and reassemble. Fairly easy job.