Coincidentally, I just completed this job with this list of parts as well! Thanks to your post, I found out about the serpentine belt issue ahead of time (I plan to email GPD/RockAuto suggesting that they put this info on their product listing for the Sanden compressors, so that people can order the belt with their other parts). I'd like to add my own tips for anyone installing this on their own:

1) If you have the engine oil cooler or transmission cooler...be prepared to fight with replacement retaining clips. In my case, the clips were shaped such that pushing in the quick connectors was impossible, I had to push in each line and then pop the clip over it. This isn't proper procedure, but those lines just were not going in with the clip in place first. (This is compared to the last time I replaced the entire quick connect fittings, with pre-installed clips - in that case, the lines popped right in)

2) Be prepared for the aluminum compressor lines to be grossly misshapen. In my case, the metal tubes that attach to the compressor were bent far too low, and would not fit over the compressor. Of course, it was the larger diameter tube which was running into the compressor, so bending it out of the way became very difficult, there's very little to get leverage on without bending the smaller pipe.

3) Be prepared to purchase a high pressure switch removal tool (GPD sells this), or a new switch. Again, had they included that note on the RockAuto listing, I would have purchased the tool in the same order.

My first two suggestions added WAY more time to this project than I would have liked...that said, for $320 in parts (shipped), a few rental items from the auto parts store, and $50 for a shop to vacuum and refill (didn't want to even mess around with that part), I guess I can't complain too much! Thanks for this write up!

 

Thanks for adding the additional information and you are very welcome.

I think your suggestions regarding also listing the extra parts needed is a very good one that I hope GPD and Rock Auto follow.

It is interesting that you seem to have had the opposite problem with the AC hoses in that one of my rigid ones (the tubing part) was up too high and started rubbing against the underside of the hood. Yesterday I gently, with a hammer and block of wood with a notch that fit over the tubing, bent it so that it seems to no longer touch the underside of the hood. Fingers-Crossed!

I also had a hard time with the "quick connects" for the tubes. I managed to loose the wire clips and had to buy new screw-in fittings that had the clips on them. I then did what you did and insert the hose and then added the clips.

 

I unscrewed the fitting from the radiator with a backup wrench on the radiator flange and let the clip rotate. I also didn't want to change the belt length because I have a gatorback with a life warranty and a gates that chirps when cold with a life warranty for a back up. Without altering the stock compressor mounting pads I ground clearance for the sanden style compressor out of the mounting bracket so it would fit without the spacers. The stock length belt went back on a hair tighter than the mark I'd made with the factory HT-6 compressor, but well within the range on the tensor pulley. Mask the engine off because the aluminum goes everywhere.

Before you think I'm that cool it thunderstormed on me before I could get the refrigerant charge correct. Good thing the weatherman said it would be dry all day.

 

Thanks for sharing the other option for dealing with the fitment of the compressor to the mount. I totally can see that being a viable option. If I recall, it did not look like there was much metal to remove.