At least some of the oil drips beneath my 96 Blazer 4.3L 2WD seems to be coming from the gasketry around the timing chain cover. So I'm going to replace it.

Here's what I'm wondering:

1) Should I replace the timing chain too while I'm in there? 183,000 miles, never done before. I think the answer's yes, but can anyone weigh in?
2) If I replace the timing chain, should I replace both sprockets as well? Seems that if the chain's worn and worth replacing, so would be the sprockets. Or is it general practice to replace the chain without replacing the sprockets?
3) Is there anything else in there that I should replace while I'm at it? A tensioner or anything?
4) How much do I need to loosen the oil pan in order to get the timing chain cover out and in? The Haynes manual says "the cover is nearly impossible to install unless the oil pan is removed," adding for effect, "it's very difficult and frustrating." They suggest removing the front three oil pan bolts on each side, and prying the pan open/down just enough to get the clearance, but that seems a little dicey. Does it work, though?
5) And just curious, does it really require engine removal in order to remove the oil pan on this truck? Again, Haynes manual says so (for 2WD), but can anyone confirm?

Thanks very much, as ever!

 

id change the timing chain when you buy it comes with your sprockets asnd chain as a set for like $65 bucks.. I took a grinder and grinded some of the lip of the time cover to slip it back in without oil pan dropped just make sure you fill that all up with some kind of gasket maker or you'll leak oil.. yur oil pan is easier to deal with though being 2wd and all

 

That sounds great. But where do you find the kit that includes the chain AND the sprockets?

Also, I understood from the Haynes book that the 2WD required engine removal for pan removal, while the 4WD allowed pan removal with the engine in place. Do you have different experience?

Thanks man.

 

i got my set today at discount auto so im sure any parts store would have the chain and gears set.. i think you may have it backwards 4x4 has to remove motor for oil pan removale due to front axel being in the way.. you should be able to drop a pan out of 2wd pretty easy..

 

OK, that makes a certain sense, I'd expect the 4WD to be the greater challenge. But I've just re-read the Haynes manual, and it says more than once that it's the 2WD where you need to remove the engine to drop the oil pan.

Can anyone else confirm this? Is the Haynes manual just wrong? Has anyone removed the oil pan on a 96 4.3l 2WD without removing the engine?

Oh and thanks, I found the timing chain set too, at RockAuto.

 

Just finished on my 2000 4x4 blazer. Had to remove axles and differential to remove oil pan. Had to jack motor up as far as possible w/o breaking mounts to get clearance to remove differential. I bought the chain and sprocket set from the dealer $72. Timing chain cover from Autozone (made in China) which was a big mistake. The timing chain cover crank position sensor hole was to deep causing the sensor to be too far from the reluctor. Wouldn't run after wards. I modified the crank sensor to avoid pulling everything apart again. If the oil leak isn't too bad, I'd just drive it. See my post "no coil driver signal". Good Luck!

 

Thanks. I tried to get comfortable with leaving the small drips, just couldn't do it. I already swapped out the leaking oil cooler lines, but there's more to it. The timing chain cover is definitely weaping oil, so it's gotta get done.

I managed to get the cover off. At a huge cost, however, because as I pulled it off, the end of the oil pan gasket that mates to it tore right off with it. Now I NEED to know whether the motor's got to come out to replace the oil pan gasket. In parts supplier images, I see that end piece of gasket, which loops below the crank, is an integral part of the oil pan gasket. So I need to drop the pan and replace it, along with the original job of doing the timing chain cover, and now timing chain, and sprockets.

Again, can anyone weigh in definitively about whether the engine must come out to remove the oil pan in a 96 2WD, as the Haynes manual says? I guess I shouldn't have embedded so many questions in a single post, though they're all intimately related (what's not in a car, right?).

Who has dropped the oil pan on a 96 2WD? Engine out or engine in?

Thanks.

 

The pan has to drop down quit a bit to clear the pick up. I'm Guessing the cross member is different on a 2wd causing a clearance problem. I'd get under it and look. The oil pan gasket is a rubber gasket and should come out of the groove clean as mine did. Only the RTV sealant in front and by the rear main seal may leave a little residue. The Haynes is talking about "removing" the oil pan. The gasket again is rubber and stretches. It may be possible to drop the pan enough to change the gasket without removing it, working the gasket around the pan from the bottom. The motor can also be raised about 2 inches without undoing the motor mounts. Sorry, no definite on the engine removal question.

 

hahaha,you know u hit it rite on the nail.i have same problem brother.my timing chain cover is leaking too as we speak,and my oil cooler lines but got it coverd with an old sock as tight as i could get it for now.my oil pan gasket was leaking too my mechanic also put upper and lower ball joints as well as upper and lower control arm bushings.needless to say i bought ball joints from autozone and aint worth a s---.but he told me that he had problems with taking off oil pan gaskett bcause of the crossmember thats in the way too 2wd 4dr.99.he had to kinda left the engine up as high as he could to replace gaskett.i hope this was helpful.

 

if its anything like changing the timing set on a Ford then the gasket set includes a gasket for the front lip of the oil pan. if it doesn't then get some black RTV and let it sit for 2 hours before installing the timing cover........... or put on the black RTV install timing cover and let it sit for 24 hours before starting.

if its like the GM engines I am familiar with then why would you need to remove the pan? somebody take me to 4.3L school.



there is absolutely no need to drop the oil pan unless the pan gasket is leaking........