Fits like a glove. Remove the grille. Fabricate a bracket at each corner of the cooler to secure it. Mount the cooler so the inlet and outlet tubes are horizontal, headed toward the driver side. Remove the shield covering the oil filter. Just before the OEM steel lines start to turn upward to go to the radiator cooler, cut them with a tubing cutter. There is another plastic shield, close to the under side of the bumper. Drill 2 holes in it and route the rubber lines up to the cooler. No tight bends! The rubber hose MUST be transmission fluid rated. Use full circle clamps, NOT the worm gear style. Reinstall the oil filter shield, and top off the fluid level.

The two steel lines that attach to the radiator, you can discard, or, I was planning on using the OEM cooler for power steering, but haven't got around to it yet.

 

Thanks for the reply, I'am trying to comprehend the install procedure, you described 1. if I cut the two lines,that is,delivery line & return line, " discard " both,where will that leave me ,contending with the remaining empty line recepticles,upper = return and lower= delivery line. do I not still need the rad functioning re. tranny cooling ,in addition to the auxililry cooler rad ? I get the cooler install discription & mounting part but are'nt you supposed to splice or plumb into one of those lines ? I'am sure I missed something here,but appreciate the help ,I'll have to get me a diaigram of it somewhere.

 

You can use both the OEM cooler, and the Imperial cooler if you want. If that's how you want to connect it, then yes, the Imperial cooler is installed in series, in the return line. The OEM cooler is not nearly as efficient as the Imperial cooler, that's why it's installed in the return line.

Something to consider, or as the late Paul Harvey would say, "here's the rest of the story": The OEM transmission cooler is submerged in engine coolant, (in the plastic side tank of the radiator). The transmission cooler does not run through the core of the radiator. It's a coil of tubing going from the upper to the lower line connections, that's it. Cooling is achieved by active heat transfer between engine coolant & trans fluid. The heat is then passively released from the coolant via the radiator cooling fins, fan clutch, and air passing through. As a result, transmission fluid temperature is equalized/stabilized at a higher temperature than if it had it's own dedicated cooler.

If you bypass the OEM cooler, you can discard the two OEM lines that connect to the radiator after you cut them.

 

Thanks for that further explaination, I see now what is happening here, as you explain it ,that exsisting oem cooling system provides a passive cooling effect and restricted to its design,therefor the newly added auxiliary cooler is a vast improvement in air/heat dissipation via its mounted rad. that means if I so choose I could splice into and run both oem and aux. systems or I can eliminate those port entries for the two lines on the rad and just leave em open ,then dependably operate on the auxiliary added cooler. It is good that you explained this about just how that passive cooling effect exsists in the standard OEM system and this should encourage the use of auxiliary cooler to maximize operating /cooling of transmission fluid,especially for towing.really appriceate this knowledge again thank a lot Captain Hook.

 

Somewhere I read that the OEM in-radiator tranny cooler should still be used inline with the added external tranny cooler. Especially if you live in an area where Winter temps get very cold. Keeps the tranny fluid warm enough in cold weather.

 

I thought about it ," using both auxiliary and O E M systems " decided to keep them both because I live in Canada ,temps get very cold and as mentioned , keeps tranny warm enough in winter , Thanks for the heads up ,Walkgood . It makes good sense .

 

I read the comments on Capt Hook's recommendation about bypassing the radiator trans cooler and remembered this. The reason you often see 'parked' trucks and cars towing trailers and overheated on a steep hill is the stressed transmission is overheating and that in turn overheats the coolant radiator to the 'boiling over' point. By separating the engine cooling from the transmission cooling function, you prevent the 'hood up on the side of the highway' on that long, steep hill. I used to think when I saw that happen. Oh, well, his engine was overheating! NO, it wasn't . The transmission was overheating and that caused the radiator to boil over, i.e. the internal trans cooler was over taxed and that caused the chain reaction.
As Paul Havey used to say: No know connection. The Maxi-Kool aux. trans cooler is $64.69 at Advance Auto Parts.