Water leak in rear of engine
#1
Water leak in rear of engine
Hello everybody,
I have problem with my gmc jimmy 2000, before two days I changed the lower intake gasket because there is a little leak in front of it, then when I finished today I poured water inside the radiator but I saw that the water leak from the rear of engine and its drooping continually .
I have problem with my gmc jimmy 2000, before two days I changed the lower intake gasket because there is a little leak in front of it, then when I finished today I poured water inside the radiator but I saw that the water leak from the rear of engine and its drooping continually .
#4
thanks for everybody
#6
2nd pass 106 lb in
3rd pass (final) 11 lb ft
In Your case I would release them to the 1st pass torque and then tighten evenly with 2nd and 3rd pass.
External leak is easy to find, while internal isn't. You don't want to have oil mixed with coolant
#7
#9
Intake bolt torque is critical if you want lower intake gaskets to seal. Be careful, if your new gaskets leak and you get coolant in your oil the engine can be ruined very easily. I would worry a lot about your repair as it is right now (worried enough to start the repair again with new gaskets). You may want to drain the oil to check if coolant has passed into your engine since your repairs.
Bolt holes for the bolts should be chased with a tap and cleaned out as junk gets packed into the holes and interferes with tightening. Bolt threads should be wire-brushed to clean and apply Teflon sealer (like for head bolts). Use the FelPro Metal/rubber gaskets only - NOT the plastic ones. Torque with a 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench in the three torque steps using the recommended tightening sequence. It is not good to overtighten either. Buy a torque wrench if you don't have one. 1/4" clicker torque wrenches can be bought for $30 - MUCH cheaper than a new engine. I like to let my repair sit overnight and then go over one more time with the torque wrench.
Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.
Bolt holes for the bolts should be chased with a tap and cleaned out as junk gets packed into the holes and interferes with tightening. Bolt threads should be wire-brushed to clean and apply Teflon sealer (like for head bolts). Use the FelPro Metal/rubber gaskets only - NOT the plastic ones. Torque with a 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench in the three torque steps using the recommended tightening sequence. It is not good to overtighten either. Buy a torque wrench if you don't have one. 1/4" clicker torque wrenches can be bought for $30 - MUCH cheaper than a new engine. I like to let my repair sit overnight and then go over one more time with the torque wrench.
Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.
Last edited by LesMyer; 08-24-2018 at 08:02 AM.
#10
What Les said. Keep in mind that your intake manifold took a set with the RTV goop on the ends that has hardened and you are now fighting when further tightening the bolts. This may prevent proper uniform torque or even crack the intake manifold.
George
George