I'm picking up a 95 Blazer soon with a bad fuel pump and I was wondering if any particular brand fuel pump is recommended. I would like to only replace the pump once and I will be replacing the strainer and fuel filter as well. Would I have to depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting the lines? Anyone have any tips to make removing the tank easier?

 

In my opinion, I would DEFINATELY go with an O.E ACDELCO pump. These Vortec engines are very picky when it comes to correct fuel pressure so be careful in your choice.

 

Would you happen to know the model number for the AC Delco fuel pump? I looked through the catalog at www.gmpartsdirect.com and it shows part# 25168719 as the fuel pump for a 95 Blazer. I don't see the fuel pump strainer in the catalog though so I guess I could just get that at AutoZone. What should the stock fuel pressure be? Do the Blazers have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rails? Would it matter which fuel filter I use? Thanks for the help.

 

Did someone say AutoZone?

First off, make sure the pump's really bad. Could just be the relay *shrug*

Yeah, the AC Delco pump is an OE replacement, but it really doesn't mean it's the best pump. All of our fuel pumps are built to OE specs. AutoZone carries AC Delco but they only offer a 1 year warranty. We also carry Bosch and Master brand pumps. The Bosch are slightly higher in price but are good quality. Both the Bosch and the Master carry a Limited Lifetime warranty. Basically, if it breaks, we replace it for as long as you own your truck.

I looked up some part numbers for you, forgot to get the Bosch number, but...

Master fuel pump--E3270-$79.99 w/ LLT
AC Delco fuel pump-EP381-$79.99/ 1 yr warranty

Master fuel pump strainer-FS22 ($6.99) or FS7 ($4.99)-3 mo warranty

As far as a fuel filter goes, the Deustch FF504 ($5.99) is as good as any other

You also may consider inspecting/replacing the fuel pump pulsator which will help eliminate fuel pressure loss and noise caused by vibration.

AutoZone has an AC Delco pulsator for $20.99 (FP27, 1 yr warranty)


Hopefully that'll point you in the right direction. Drop a line if you have any more questions, hopefully we can help you out.

 

I hope its just the relay . I'm picking the truck up tonight and I'm gonna try a relay from another Blazer tomorrow. On the GM parts website I found part# 25168719 which is AC Delco #EP386 and AC Delco #EP381 is GM part# 25163473. Any idea what the difference is? I'll stop by AutoZone tomorrow after I test the relay. I may just go with the Master fuel pump. Where is the pulsator located? Is there a way to test it? Thanks for the help.

 

The EP386 is most likely just an alternate to the EP381. Sometimes 2 pumps will meet the vehicle's specifications.

The pulsator is somewhere in the fuel pump assembly, I can't tell you exactly. To my knowledge there's no way to test it. Ok, so I was no help on that one, lol.

The Master is a good pump, and it's warrantied against failure for as long as you have the truck, can't beat that!

 

lol

Do you know if the fuel pumps are 2 speed fuel pumps? Just picked the Blazer up and it started for a second then immediately cut off. I had a similiar problem with my 98 GTP and it was the fuel pump resistor (switches the fuel pump to low speed after the engine is started) and I just bypassed it with the relay. I'm gonna swap out the relay tomorrow.

 

That I'm not sure about...I'll do some investigating when I go to work tomorrow

 

Howdy,
Interesting topic.
I have a 2000 S10-Blazer with problems. First I wasn't getting any spark. Turned out to be a bad ignition control module. Now I am not getting any fuel.
Your lucky, my fuel pump runs $280-$450 depending on where I go. Its all one part now. You have to replace everything in the gas tank at once.

Thanks for the info on the Bosch and Master brands. I like the warrenty.

As for removing the gas tank. I have removed the gas tank from a '87, '91, and now the 2000. The OBS tanks were under the rear storage are, where the spare tire is on the NBS. Your tank should be mounted next to the drivers side rear passneger frame rail.
My 2000 is set up as follows, your mgiht be slightly different. There are 2 bolts holding it in place. 15mm deepwell socket and a couple of 6" extensions make short work of the bolts. Spray them with PB-Blaster before you start to unscrew them. It'll help with the rust. The other end of the strap is hooked into place on the frame rail. Lift and pull out. Put something under hte tank, lift so you don't over extend the hoses and wires.
There are 2 hoses running from the gas filler neck, mine where held in place by clamps, 5/16" socket fits the clamp nut.
3 hoses on top of the tank connected to the fuel pump unit. Mine are push clamps, squeze them and pull. Easier said then done. Do the fuel filter first. The output fitting is the same way, squeze and pull. But at least you can see it to understand how it works.
1 hose in the front of the tank with a clamp. Use a pair of pliers.
2 wiring harnesses.
That's it. Took me a little more then 1 hour last night to remove mine.

When you go to unscrew the fuel pump unit retaining ring. Mine had a plastic clip that holds it from turning. Pound on the metal ring with a hammer ans screwdriver, move the clip out of the way as you go. Best to clean up as much dirt as possible before you start though. Keep a shop vac clsoe at hand and suck up all the dirt. You don't want any in the tank. I will be using the gas in the tank for my lawnmowers. They can handle the dirt better then fuel injectors. Make sure you clean everything up real nice before you assemble it.

Got any more questions?

Good to know we have a AZ employee on the site. I find the local AZ employees more knowledgeable then the other stores.

One more thing. You mentioned that your truck starts and dies. There is a safety feature on the ignition circuit. IF the oil pressure sending unit doesn't tell the ECM that it has oil pressure it will kill the engine. The engine will not have any oil pressure at start up, there is a delay. I just don't know how long. 2 seconds-30 seconds????

Another possibility is a plugged cat. Extremely hard to diagnose. The O2 sensor will not tell you if the cat is plugged. What happens is the engine doesn't want to stay running. It'll start, run like crap, choke, and puke, then die. Kind of like suffocating. It cannot breath.

Sorry for being long winded, got on a role and couldn't stop.

 

Yeah the newer styles come with the whole assembly. Makes things a lil easier but doesn't help the wallet any.

I try to help whenever possible with diagnosis and parts. I haven't done too much wrenching on the Blazer as I haven't had any major problems yet *knocks on wood*.

2FAST4U, any updates on the progress? I'm interested in how everything went.