What is worng with my brakes?
#21
05-16-2010, 04:18 PM
hello just a small question have you tested the MC? Well this is how we have always done it start the vehicle and shut it off. Push on the brake pedal you should have 2-3 soft pedals then a very hard pedal thats it it this goes like it should the the MC is good. if you have more three the master is not working like it should. Hope this helps. I have never heard of a rubber hyd line collapseing
#22
05-18-2010, 08:56 PM
just bite the bullit your mc is shot i know its a one in a hundred but your (and mine) method is not fool proof s it happens
#23
03-27-2011, 10:46 PM
i spent 2 days ******** with my brakes.. until i read through a bunch of topics here and found this one.. i had the exact same problem except i only changed 1 caliper.. it turned out the store gave me the wrong side.. me being foolish thought it was a new design having the bleeder on the bottom of the caliper lol... returned it for the proper one and now all is good..
and i just wanted to say THX to all of you guys here again for such an awesome site and the help... because i had a few people look at my brakes and they thought the same as some of the other posters here.. MC, flex hoses ect...
but as soon as i finished reading this thread i knew what the probem was.. so THX again guys.. cheers
i spent 2 days ******** with my brakes.. until i read through a bunch of topics
and sorry to revive an old thread.. but you guys saved me alot of headaches, money, and time
and i just wanted to say THX to all of you guys here again for such an awesome site and the help... because i had a few people look at my brakes and they thought the same as some of the other posters here.. MC, flex hoses ect...
but as soon as i finished reading this thread i knew what the probem was.. so THX again guys.. cheers
i spent 2 days ******** with my brakes.. until i read through a bunch of topics
and sorry to revive an old thread.. but you guys saved me alot of headaches, money, and time
#24
03-28-2011, 09:12 AM
Holy crap. Then the parts book must have them listed wrong. I made sure the girl wrote the sides down on each box for me. I watched her specifically do that. And she is not the typical idiot behind the counter. I trust her. and still do.
Sorry for both of us that we didn't catch it on install though. Bummer all the time spent. LOL
Cool....
Sorry for both of us that we didn't catch it on install though. Bummer all the time spent. LOL
Cool....
#25
03-28-2011, 08:51 PM
I had a similar problem. when you bleed the rear calipers, does the fluid shoot out or does it just sort of flow out lightly ?
#26
05-03-2011, 09:05 PM
WOW, What a waste on my time as well as yours, KIMCHOC. I worked on this issue all freakin day long and as I got to the end of your topic I noticed you mentioned in a previous post that the bleeder valves were upside down, a light lit up in my head and I realized the auto parts store pulled two passenger side rear calipers for me and happy me decided to install and bleed them hopping for outstanding results, tomorrow I will exchange it out.
Also I'de like to add... I broke the bleeder valves off the old calipers and I did try to tap them out but I only ended up breaking my easy out in the dam bleeder valves so that's why I needed to buy new rear calipers. I just recently aquired this truck a month ago but its been in the family since it was drove off the lot, My brother owned it and so far I've replaced all the rotors/pads/rear caliper-supports (the front passenger rotor was worn all the way to the inner core of the disk) the neutral safety switch hasn't worked properly ( If I put it in OD the starter engages and all the dash lights and dash readings dissapear, it would sound like "EEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRREEEEEEEERERERERERER") ever since he slid into a guard rail and had to get it towed, thier was no oil in it, the tires are bald from excessive peeling out and god only know what else... lol their was also a post on the first page of this topic where Someone noticed the bleeder valves were upside down, Maybe its the way he worded it and I didn't register the concept or something. But this is a very good topic to explore the braking system down to its core to say the least.
(98 blazer LT 4x2 v6).... I think I finally realize why this truck was "free"
this truck has been totaled twice and the frame is also spent from driving over a large tree stump.
So far this is what I"ve learned today:
I can remove stuck rotors on the rear with a 8 lb sledge hammer.
Upside down bleeder valves will not work when bleeding the system.
My master cylinder is still good.
It is extremely hard to remove broke off bleeder valves in calipers.
Always check your parts at the store.
Never assume anything is free.
Also I'de like to add... I broke the bleeder valves off the old calipers and I did try to tap them out but I only ended up breaking my easy out in the dam bleeder valves so that's why I needed to buy new rear calipers. I just recently aquired this truck a month ago but its been in the family since it was drove off the lot, My brother owned it and so far I've replaced all the rotors/pads/rear caliper-supports (the front passenger rotor was worn all the way to the inner core of the disk) the neutral safety switch hasn't worked properly ( If I put it in OD the starter engages and all the dash lights and dash readings dissapear, it would sound like "EEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRREEEEEEEERERERERERER") ever since he slid into a guard rail and had to get it towed, thier was no oil in it, the tires are bald from excessive peeling out and god only know what else... lol their was also a post on the first page of this topic where Someone noticed the bleeder valves were upside down, Maybe its the way he worded it and I didn't register the concept or something. But this is a very good topic to explore the braking system down to its core to say the least.
(98 blazer LT 4x2 v6).... I think I finally realize why this truck was "free"
this truck has been totaled twice and the frame is also spent from driving over a large tree stump.
So far this is what I"ve learned today:
I can remove stuck rotors on the rear with a 8 lb sledge hammer.
Upside down bleeder valves will not work when bleeding the system.
My master cylinder is still good.
It is extremely hard to remove broke off bleeder valves in calipers.
Always check your parts at the store.
Never assume anything is free.
Last edited by bldrofreal; 05-03-2011 at 09:40 PM.
#27
05-03-2011, 09:56 PM
WOW, What a waste on my time as well as yours, KIMCHOC. I worked on this issue all freakin day long and as I got to the end of your topic I noticed you mentioned in a previous post that the bleeder valves were upside down, a light lit up in my head and I realized the auto parts store pulled two passenger side rear calipers for me and happy me decided to install and bleed them hopping for outstanding results, tomorrow I will exchange it out.
Also I'de like to add... I broke the bleeder valves off the old calipers and I did try to tap them out but I only ended up breaking my easy out in the dam bleeder valves so that's why I needed to buy new rear calipers. I just recently aquired this truck a month ago but its been in the family since it was drove off the lot, My brother owned it and so far I've replaced all the rotors/pads/rear caliper-supports (the front passenger rotor was worn all the way to the inner core of the disk) the neutral safety switch hasn't worked properly ( If I put it in OD the starter engages and all the dash lights and dash readings dissapear, it would sound like "EEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRREEEEEEEERERERERERER") ever since he slid into a guard rail and had to get it towed, thier was no oil in it, the tires are bald from excessive peeling out and god only know what else... lol their was also a post on the first page of this topic where Someone noticed the bleeder valves were upside down, Maybe its the way he worded it and I didn't register the concept or something. But this is a very good topic to explore the braking system down to its core to say the least.
(98 blazer LT 4x2 v6).... I think I finally realize why this truck was "free"
this truck has been totaled twice and the frame is also spent from driving over a large tree stump.
So far this is what I"ve learned today:
I can remove stuck rotors on the rear with a 8 lb sledge hammer.
Upside down bleeder valves will not work when bleeding the system.
My master cylinder is still good.
It is extremely hard to remove broke off bleeder valves in calipers.
Always check your parts at the store.
Never assume anything is free.
Also I'de like to add... I broke the bleeder valves off the old calipers and I did try to tap them out but I only ended up breaking my easy out in the dam bleeder valves so that's why I needed to buy new rear calipers. I just recently aquired this truck a month ago but its been in the family since it was drove off the lot, My brother owned it and so far I've replaced all the rotors/pads/rear caliper-supports (the front passenger rotor was worn all the way to the inner core of the disk) the neutral safety switch hasn't worked properly ( If I put it in OD the starter engages and all the dash lights and dash readings dissapear, it would sound like "EEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRREEEEEEEERERERERERER") ever since he slid into a guard rail and had to get it towed, thier was no oil in it, the tires are bald from excessive peeling out and god only know what else... lol their was also a post on the first page of this topic where Someone noticed the bleeder valves were upside down, Maybe its the way he worded it and I didn't register the concept or something. But this is a very good topic to explore the braking system down to its core to say the least.
(98 blazer LT 4x2 v6).... I think I finally realize why this truck was "free"
this truck has been totaled twice and the frame is also spent from driving over a large tree stump.
So far this is what I"ve learned today:
I can remove stuck rotors on the rear with a 8 lb sledge hammer.
Upside down bleeder valves will not work when bleeding the system.
My master cylinder is still good.
It is extremely hard to remove broke off bleeder valves in calipers.
Always check your parts at the store.
Never assume anything is free.
his 1st posting & he feels blessed (kicking himself in the a$$ but blessed)
I'm sure he'll talk to friends etc & read more in here.
#28
05-03-2011, 09:59 PM
i spent 2 days ******** with my brakes.. until i read through a bunch of topics here and found this one.. i had the exact same problem except i only changed 1 caliper.. it turned out the store gave me the wrong side.. me being foolish thought it was a new design having the bleeder on the bottom of the caliper lol... returned it for the proper one and now all is good..
and i just wanted to say THX to all of you guys here again for such an awesome site and the help... because i had a few people look at my brakes and they thought the same as some of the other posters here.. MC, flex hoses ect...
but as soon as i finished reading this thread i knew what the probem was.. so THX again guys.. cheers
i spent 2 days ******** with my brakes.. until i read through a bunch of topics
and sorry to revive an old thread.. but you guys saved me alot of headaches, money, and time
and i just wanted to say THX to all of you guys here again for such an awesome site and the help... because i had a few people look at my brakes and they thought the same as some of the other posters here.. MC, flex hoses ect...
but as soon as i finished reading this thread i knew what the probem was.. so THX again guys.. cheers
i spent 2 days ******** with my brakes.. until i read through a bunch of topics
and sorry to revive an old thread.. but you guys saved me alot of headaches, money, and time
I'm glad to be part of this forum!
#29
05-03-2011, 10:08 PM
Thanks for the welcome 
my endeavors are still not over with the brakes, but if I start working on my truck now I'm sure the police man might show up at this time of night 
"housing associations are counter productive most of the time" but at any rate in a way I feel not-so but kinda blessed at this point in time sorry metalhead i think you were on page 2 so I couldn't remember what the user name was, you get the kudos
my endeavors are still not over with the brakes, but if I start working on my truck now I'm sure the police man might show up at this time of night "housing associations are counter productive most of the time" but at any rate in a way I feel not-so but kinda blessed at this point in time sorry metalhead i think you were on page 2 so I couldn't remember what the user name was, you get the kudos
Last edited by bldrofreal; 05-03-2011 at 10:11 PM.
#30
05-04-2011, 05:49 AM
I use this forum to fix everything on my 2000 and 1996 Blazers.
Just did the door pins/bushings the other day. Piece of cake. Just followed the pics from one of the posts. It took me 20 minutes each side.
Friend of mine was quoted $70.00 per side. LOL Hinted at wanting me to do it for him. NO! You can either pay or learn to DO IT YOURSELF!
So far I haven't run into anything I haven't been able to fix with the use of this forum.
GLB
Just did the door pins/bushings the other day. Piece of cake. Just followed the pics from one of the posts. It took me 20 minutes each side.
Friend of mine was quoted $70.00 per side. LOL Hinted at wanting me to do it for him. NO! You can either pay or learn to DO IT YOURSELF!
So far I haven't run into anything I haven't been able to fix with the use of this forum.
GLB