1995 Blazer won't crank
Hey everyone,
I search and read a lot before I even think about posting and I am at a loss. Yesterday I went to Harbor Freight to buy a new rolling tool cabinet, and when I came out to drive around to the loading area my truck wouldn't start. The radio and dash lights would come on, but it would not crank, or even click.
I tried a jump and that didn't change anything. The cables were pretty corroded, so I took off everything and cleaned them up really well with a wire brush and coke. Nothing. New battery since there was a Kmart in the same parking lot. Nothing. Banged on the starter with a hammer and that didn't change anything either.
Had the wife pick me up and left the truck there overnight while I researched the forum all night. Figured that the ignition switch was a real good place to start since it matched the symptoms pretty well. I picked one up from Autozone and put it in today. Nothing changed, it wouldn't crank, it didn't click, and I could hear the fuel pump.
I don't know what to try next, I am thinking about the neutral safety switch, but I don't really want to throw a bunch of parts at it.
The truck has been hesitating before it turns over for the past month or so, and there is a Service Engine Soon light that has been coming on every so often for the last year. The code is a cam sensor. I read that the ignition switch has been known to throw that code too, and that is why I really thought it was that the ignition switch.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I search and read a lot before I even think about posting and I am at a loss. Yesterday I went to Harbor Freight to buy a new rolling tool cabinet, and when I came out to drive around to the loading area my truck wouldn't start. The radio and dash lights would come on, but it would not crank, or even click.
I tried a jump and that didn't change anything. The cables were pretty corroded, so I took off everything and cleaned them up really well with a wire brush and coke. Nothing. New battery since there was a Kmart in the same parking lot. Nothing. Banged on the starter with a hammer and that didn't change anything either.
Had the wife pick me up and left the truck there overnight while I researched the forum all night. Figured that the ignition switch was a real good place to start since it matched the symptoms pretty well. I picked one up from Autozone and put it in today. Nothing changed, it wouldn't crank, it didn't click, and I could hear the fuel pump.
I don't know what to try next, I am thinking about the neutral safety switch, but I don't really want to throw a bunch of parts at it.
The truck has been hesitating before it turns over for the past month or so, and there is a Service Engine Soon light that has been coming on every so often for the last year. The code is a cam sensor. I read that the ignition switch has been known to throw that code too, and that is why I really thought it was that the ignition switch.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Here is why you will pay the Man. You pay the man to make your problems his.
From the little you gave us I would strain to guess the problem is in the area of the starter. Perhaps a loose connection (bad ground) or a bad starter solenoid.
From the little you gave us I would strain to guess the problem is in the area of the starter. Perhaps a loose connection (bad ground) or a bad starter solenoid.
Amen, the mechanic's problem now. I am not afraid of doing hard work, but diagnosing gremlins are beyond me. I do need to buy a new multimeter and really learn how to use it.
Starter was my first thought, but the truck was stalled in a parking lot. I left it overnight two nights in a row and didn't want to push it any further. Didn't want to pay for two tows, one to my house, and then one to the shop if I couldn't figure it out.
Once the mechanic figures it out, I will post the results. I hope it is the relay, probably the cheapest fix.
Starter was my first thought, but the truck was stalled in a parking lot. I left it overnight two nights in a row and didn't want to push it any further. Didn't want to pay for two tows, one to my house, and then one to the shop if I couldn't figure it out.
Once the mechanic figures it out, I will post the results. I hope it is the relay, probably the cheapest fix.
It was the starter. $234 to have it replaced. Kicking myself a little because I would have been able to do that if I knew how to use that multimeter. I am definitely going to learn that now.
Thanks
Thanks
Not all States require the shop to get authorization prior to performing the work. Michigan law requiring it went into effect in 1974.
This is the prime example of a practice I like to follow. K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid!) Your thought process was right, but you jumped right over a simple starter and jumped straight to switches and wiring mess. Lol, I've done it too so dont feel bad, I bet you'll never do it again!
On another note, Captain Hook, your signature is so true
On another note, Captain Hook, your signature is so true




