1999 Blazer rear axle removal
 

Hello all....

I have encountered my driver's side rear wheel bearing failing. It started with an ever so slight vibration in the seat of my pants, so I replaced both U-Joints (bought the Blazer used - at 155,000 still had the originals).

That didn't cure it, although the U-joints were just about ready to go. Well...a week or so of vibration and steadily increasing growling, I looked under the vehicle and noticed a pretty good leakage of differential oil on the rear driver's side wheel assembly (disc brake). Been mechanic long enough to know I had located the problem - rear wheel bearing gone bad.

Here is my question....I have changed MANY Chevy axles, rear axle bearings, differentials, but in all that time I have never had the luxury to repair one with the G80 option (limited-slip). Normal rear ends I know all about the 5/16" bolt, pin, C clips, etc. for axle removal.

With mine being an 8.5 differential with limited slip, what are the differences I am going to encounter in order to remove the axle? I am almost sure that the axle has probably scored a little, so I am going to replace the bearing with one that is of the "fix-it" axle type that puts the bearing on a little different portion of the axle. As a matter of fact - since I am going to be that deep in it and at 155,000 miles - I am going to replace both.

Long-winded I know.

Basically...does the limited slip differential use C clips to hold the axle like the normal differential? Or am I going to encounter extra steps and precautions, or even different ways that the axles are held in place?

I ended up with a somewhat rare S-10 Blazer as far as I can tell, and as far as the comments I get from various mechanics and GM dealership personnel. Mine is the base-line 2-door utility - no option PACKAGE, but has a 5-speed manual (not many seen), 8.5" rear ring gear (again - not near as popular as the 7.5" on a base-line S-10) and get this....factory cruise control.

Geez...I need to shut up.

Just how different is the removal of the axle from a limited slip versus a spider-gear type?

Thanks for any and all help...



Henry



Had to be special ordered.

There is either a write up on this, or youtube vid. Basically the same as any old c-clip style, but you dont not remove the pin. Only pull it out far enough to push the axles in. rotate the diff so the housing holds the pin from falling out.

Not much help as far as removing the axle shaft, I just replaced the entire rear end ;)

But as far as your blazer's specs...all 5-speed blazers came with the 8.5" rear end, but while the 5-speeds were uncommon, even more so uncommon were the 5-speed 4WD blazers...and that would mean that you have the iron front differential as well (assuming you have push button 4wd, not the old lever shift).

ZR2s also came with the 8.5" rear end...but obviously thats an uprated option package.

FYI, in late model year 1999 and early 2000, GM switched from 8.5" to 8.6" rear ends. No difference the axles and all, but the carrier bearings are differnt...so if you blow a bearing replacing the axle or something...just know what ya got!

[QUOTE=WolfPack;358581
But as far as your blazer's specs...all 5-speed blazers came with the 8.5" rear end, but while the 5-speeds were uncommon, even more so uncommon were the 5-speed 4WD blazers...and that would mean that you have the iron front differential as well (assuming you have push button 4wd, not the old lever shift).


That is what I have. 1999 2-door utility - 4WD w/pushbutton 4WD - limited slip rear - 5 speed manual. I guess thats why my friend at the GM dealer here told me I had an unusual Blazer. He VIN'ed it for me, and gave me all the specs on the vehicle. I wanted the correct parts on hand before I tore it down.

Thanks,

To the first poster....I searched for a tech article on replacing the rear axle bearing on the 2nd Gen Blazers, but it came up with 0 results on the limited slip.

Here ya go ;)

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/4562/16599237.jpg
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2145/98120640.jpg
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/7436/34516698.jpg

Hello,

I know this is a slightly old post, but I'm looking to replace the rusted out backing plates / splash guards the rear end of my 2001 S-10 Trailblazer. How do I tell if I have a locking or non-locking differential (I'm assuming I don't)? I'm trying to get as prepared as possible before I tear everything apart. Also, I'm assuming I'll need to replace the differential gasket?

Also, do I need to disconnect the parking brake cables to remove the hub?

Look for code G80 in your glovebox. If it's not there, you don't have a limited slip differential. Parking brake can stay attached unless you're replacing the entire rear axle.

If you're taking the differential cover off replacing the gasket is necessary.

Great, thanks! I did find the G80 code so I've got limited slip. This also helps me determine the axle seal I need, since O'Reilly has three options (code C, K, or limited slip). Out of curiosity, if I needed to find the code stamped on the axle, where would I look?

One final note...the guy on the phone at O'Reilly said I shouldn't have to open the differential to remove my axles, that they should just pull out. I'm not so sure, judging from everything I've read. Can anyone confirm/deny this?

Thanks again for the help!

You must pull the diff cover, pinion shaft, & c-clips to then be able to remove the axle shafts. Sounds like the guy at O'Reilly's doesn't know what he's talking about.

I spun the differential to check the gears, and on the top spider gear I noticed a few teeth that look like this. Is this something I should worry about @ 120k? How hard would this gear be to replace if I'm already pulling the axles out?[IMG]http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0234.jpg[/IMG]

Those pieces went somewhere and it will only get worse. It could end up taking out the ring & pinion if left too long. The G80 makes it more complicated in order to replace these parts though.

Another question, after I pushed the axles in, but before I removed the c clips, I accidentally turned one axle a little. Will this affect the timing? I thought I got it back, but I'm pretty sure it's not perfect.

Thanks again. There were some decent size pieces stuck to the magnet, not sure if those would be the ones or not of course.

Rotation of the axles will not make a difference as far as putting them back together properly.

Any tricks to pulling the old axle seals out? They seem pretty stuck, and I'm afraid of damaging the bearings. Will just a hammer claw work, or should I be using something special? O'Reilly's tool was nothing more than a double sided claw...

NM...a few taps and getting on it a bit more did the trick!

So the G80 isn't so much locking as it is limited slip, correct? The axle seals I bought for the locking differential are too large for the axle shaft. That being said, where would I find the C or K country code?

One more stupid question, should I put threadlocker on any of the differential bolts (cover, pinion lock bolt)?

Thanks!

The pinion nut should be a self locking nut. I wouldn't use any loctite on the cover bolts. About the only place that I have used it in the past is on the differential caps.

Thanks again for the help. Finally got everything back together and the rear end didn't crunch up, so that's good :icon_wink: I'll have to make sure it doesn't leak after I drive it on the Interstate for a few hours tomorrow.

2002 Blazer Rear Bearing Removal HELP!
 

So I pulled apart the rear axles/differential today planning on replacing the axle seals and bearings if necessary. This is the first time I have done this and wasnt sure what to expect. Following the awesome advice already on this forum, everything went well until it came time to actually pull the bearing. It looks like when the bearings were replaced some time ago, they put in the units that have two built in seals on each side of the bearing and the whole bearing unit is moved outboard of normal.

The guy at AUTOZONE seemed to think there were two options for that axle, one with the big unit and the other just the stock normal bearing. Is this true or is the larger part that I seem to have just a replacement to move the place the bearings ride on the axle?

Anyway, I wasnt exactly sure what was up so I proceeded to put the axle puller in and hammered away like everyone said to do. I proceeded in tearing all the innards out of the bearing without removing the metal housing (see pics below). I am now in the situation that whoever made the stupid housing did not leave enough of a lip for the bearing puller to latch on to... I tried using the next larger puller but it is too big to spread inside the axle... not sure what to do now... the only thought I had was to get a long piece of 1/2 inch cast iron pipe and hammer it out from the other side, though not sure if that would work either since the lip isnt very big. At this point I'm not even sure that steel piece is supposed to come out. Am I on the right track? Help appreciated!

You can see here also the silver metal sticking out from the axle I believe is the bearing housing itself and it looks like when they put it in they put green locktite around it. I havent seen this on any other blazer so im a little curious. Is it supposed to be removed? And if so why does it stick out beyond the axle tube?