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-   -   2000 Blazer ABS light (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/2000-blazer-abs-light-81291/)

sky_blazer 08-25-2013 02:22 PM

2000 Blazer ABS light
 
hello this is my first thread. im having a problem in my Blazer i just got last week. when i got the truck the ABS light was on, i investigated the issue a little further and discovered the fuse was pulled and the wires were cut on the passenger side. i replaced the sensor and fuse and now the light is off until i drive it, once i put it in drive it comes on at 5-10 mph. the light goes off in the next key cycle and will stay off until i drive it again. it will run in park all day long and no lights. i took the driver side apart to try and clean the sensor but i damaged the sensor and am now in the process of replacing that one too. are there any other suggestions?

sky_blazer 08-25-2013 05:17 PM

anybody?...

sky_blazer 08-26-2013 04:01 PM

72 views not a single reply? surely somebody here knows something

Captain Hook 08-26-2013 08:00 PM

ABS does a self test each time you turn the ignition to the RUN position. Everything except the speed sensor circuits is checked. When the vehicle is put in motion, the self test checks the speed sensors and their circuits. If there's a problem, the ABS light comes on. You'll need a scan tool capable of retrieving ABS codes to find out which circuit or sensor has a problem.

sky_blazer 08-27-2013 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by Captain Hook (Post 598425)
ABS does a self test each time you turn the ignition to the RUN position. Everything except the speed sensor circuits is checked. When the vehicle is put in motion, the self test checks the speed sensors and their circuits. If there's a problem, the ABS light comes on. You'll need a scan tool capable of retrieving ABS codes to find out which circuit or sensor has a problem.

ok i called Autozone and places like that, and they only scan the check engine light. the actual scan tool is way out of my range (about 300.00). i know i have OBDII so i dont think i can retrieve codes by jumping pins so i think im kinda screwed there. if i understand you correctly after i put the ignition to run, everything passed the self test at this point cause the light goes off. when i put the vehicle in motion does it do another test to find an issue? or is it just continuing the test and checking the sensors? i am in the process of replacing the front driver side sensor right now, i replaced it cause i damaged it trying to take it out at first to clean it

sky_blazer 08-27-2013 01:45 PM

i just looked and does it matter if the sensors are not located in the same respective position on the hub? on the passenger side its facing the front headlight on the driver side its pointing down. they are still bolted in perfectly just not in the same spot as the other

Captain Hook 08-27-2013 05:21 PM

If your Blazer is 4WD, it is not recommended to replace just the sensor, the entire hub assembly should be replaced. The installed depth of the sensor tip is critical: too far in and it will destroy the sensor, too far out and it will not work. If it's off ~.002" it will be a problem.

The first part of the self test checks the electrical circuits for power, ground, open or short circuits, etc. If everything passes, the light stays off. When the vehicle reaches ~5MPH, the sensors and their circuits are checked and the pump is momentarilly activated, (if you listen very carefully you can hear it). If the second part of the test passes, the light stays off. The system is continuously monitored while driving and if there's a problem, the light comes on immediately and a DTC is set in memory.

sky_blazer 08-27-2013 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by Captain Hook (Post 598524)
If your Blazer is 4WD, it is not recommended to replace just the sensor, the entire hub assembly should be replaced. The installed depth of the sensor tip is critical: too far in and it will destroy the sensor, too far out and it will not work. If it's off ~.002" it will be a problem.

The first part of the self test checks the electrical circuits for power, ground, open or short circuits, etc. If everything passes, the light stays off. When the vehicle reaches ~5MPH, the sensors and their circuits are checked and the pump is momentarilly activated, (if you listen very carefully you can hear it). If the second part of the test passes, the light stays off. The system is continuously monitored while driving and if there's a problem, the light comes on immediately and a DTC is set in memory.

ok thanks for the info i did toss a new sensor in before i read your post. the light is off and has not come back on even while driving, but im having a little whine like a bearing went bad. i loosened the hub nut, removed the hub bolts and rotated the hub so the ABS mounting location faced the front of the vehicle (somebody must have taken it off and failed to put it back on right it was on the bottom of hub) it didnt do that before so i should have just replaced the hub in the first place lol

Chip 08-28-2013 10:21 AM

I had the ABS light on the dash "light up" on mine yesterday so this is a timely thread for me. A couple of questions: Is it possible for the sensor to "go blind" from dirt / grease? If so, will a cleaning possibly remedy the problem? Where exactly is the sensor located? It appears the brake caliper needs to be removed to get at it. True? What sort of prices are we talking about for hub replacement? (ball park)If you had to replace one, it would seem to make sense to replace both at the same time as a preventive maint. action. As a side question; How much resistance to rotation should there be in the rotation of front brake rotor on the truck? (4X4) Mine seems to be pretty tight and it does not seem to be from brake drag.

sky_blazer 08-28-2013 05:45 PM


Originally Posted by Chip (Post 598635)
I had the ABS light on the dash "light up" on mine yesterday so this is a timely thread for me. A couple of questions: Is it possible for the sensor to "go blind" from dirt / grease? If so, will a cleaning possibly remedy the problem? Where exactly is the sensor located? It appears the brake caliper needs to be removed to get at it. True? What sort of prices are we talking about for hub replacement? (ball park)If you had to replace one, it would seem to make sense to replace both at the same time as a preventive maint. action. As a side question; How much resistance to rotation should there be in the rotation of front brake rotor on the truck? (4X4) Mine seems to be pretty tight and it does not seem to be from brake drag.

my light was on all the time until i replaced the passenger side one due to old being cut. on 4x4 it is located on the hub, yes caliper comes off, rotor comes off, and its bolted on with a allen head bolt. i have read threads about people cleaning it and they work but when you take it out you mess with the air gap and could open up a can of worms (if im mistaken somebody correct me). i just looked it up and it seems between 60-100 dollars is about ballpark for replacement hub which comes with new sensor. im not sure on the resistance but im sure somebody will chime in with that info


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