Changed brake pads and am having problems with brakes that feel like they are sticking. after driving a short time they seem to free up until I apply the brakes and it starts again. I took caliper off and silicone greased the slide pins and piston but the problem continues. I read other threads with similar issues but none seemed exactly the same. I know it's a Jimmy and not a Blazer but I like this forum and hope I can get some HELP! Thanks.

 

Hoses that connect to the calipers fail on the inside, out side looks great but restrict flow to release.

 

Doesn't seem they were doing it , at least to this extent, before I changed the pads. Is it likely they both hoses gave out at the same time? Both sides (rear) have the same hot brake kind of smell.

 

I just cleaned and greased the slide pins on the rear drivers side today along with the piston best I could. Slide Pins weren't moving freely but are now. I tried pumping the brake with the caliper off thinking the piston would extend but it did not so I couldn't lube it the way I had anticipated.

Something I tested may or may not mean anything. After replacing and tightening down the caliper I found I could rotate the disc about 1/4 " or so...not much but freely. I then pumped the brake a time or two and tried again but it would not budge. Waited about 15 min and tried again, but still would not budge. Does that indicate something is sticking or is that normal?

 

Can you rotate the wheel by hand when the brakes are not applied? They should release pretty quickly. If not, rebuild or replace your calipers. The pistons are sticking in their new position, deeper into the calipers because of the new brake pads. Old sealing surface became gunked up for whatever reason when pads were worn down and the pistons were out further. Now your new pads shove the pistons back in, to seal on the gunked up surface - and they are sticking.

 

Had just one rear side jacked up....didn't rotate....should it rotate freely like that?

 

QUOTE=goslats;651753]Had just one rear side jacked up....didn't rotate....should it rotate freely like that?[/QUOTE]

I would jack up both sides - a lot to turn in transfer case even with the trans in neutral

 

Yep good idea. Ill jack up both sides. When I pump brake with caliper off the piston should fully extend...is that correct?

 

The calipers should be replaced every time you service the rear brakes. The calipers are aluminum, the pistons are steel, the fluid is hygroscopic, (attracts water). This combination causes rust and corrosion to form inside the caliper. After you replace the calipers, open the bleeders one at a time and let them gravity bleed for ~5 minutes per side. Do not pump the pedal. After both sides have gravity bled, slowly push the pedal down and slowly release it, repeat until the pedal is firm. Have an assistant hold pressure on the pedal while you quickly open and close the bleeder, don't allow the pedal to go to the floor. Repeat on the other side. Top off the master cylinder.... done. Don't allow the master cylinder to go dry. If it goes dry, you'll need an ABS capable scan tool to perform the automated bleed.

 

Don't pump the brakes with the caliper off. You're not going to lubricate (or free up) anything with them extended and I think you will have a heckuva time getting the pistons pushed back in. Just replace them if they are stuck and not releasing.