Chris, I did the cap and rotor. The brand of fuel pump was not AC Delco or Delphi since none of the auto stores in town carried those. I cant remember the brand, will have to look it up.

CaptainHook, I did check the start-up pressure and it was good, 55+ and held within 10psi for over thirty minutes after shut down. I was concerned the fuel pump wiring was going bad which is why I drove it around with the fuel pressure gauge on it so I could monitor when it stalls and the the pressure held while the stalling was occurring. So I was kinda thinking the fuel delivery was good unless my spider injector is miss firing? Not sure if I could tell that on the fuel pressure gauge?

I hope to get the plugs and wires done since not sure how old they are and need to rule them out as a possible issue. I will update once I get that done entertain any other ideas anyone has. Thanks for all the help so far!

 

The FSM recommends a lot of tests, After you check the plugs and wires, do the fuel injector test, then a compression test. The more you eliminate, the closer to the problem you get.

 

Went through the manual this morning and it stated that intake manifold problems will cause symptoms.

You stated that you have a intake manifold gasket problem. You are going to have to replace it anyway to I would suggest you star there.

 

Might be a heat sensitive Ignition module. Or the coil on its way out. Just my 0.02

 

I had a similar issue with my 95, as it turned out the two fuel system relays (located in the glove box) were over heating, so I replaced them, same thing, so I returned them as defective for a new set, did this for about a month until I found out there iare two listed part numbers for that relay, one with a resistor and one without. I had been buying the relays without the the resitor, bought the correct relays (AC Delco w/ resistors) turned out they were cheaper than the BWD relays without the resistor, and havent had an issue since.

That would be my 0.04 ;p

Good luck

 

Fuel pressure and leakdown test results are good. It confirms that the fuel injector, regulator, fuel pump check valve, spider lines, poppet nozzels, and the fuel pressure and return lines in the plenum are also fine. There have been issues in the past with the wires in the fuel injector harness connector developing an intermittent open circuit. It requires removing the plenum to inspect the connector and wires, and soldering on a new connector if necessary. If the injector loses voltage from the fuse panel, or ground from the PCM, fuel pressure will not be affected, but the injector will not squirt fuel, (there's only one injector on your engine).

As mentioned, there could be a problem with the ignition module overheating, coil wire or plug wires shorting out, or the coil shorting to ground near where the coil wire attaches to the coil. Open the hood at night, start the engine, watch the ignition coil and plug wires for stray sparks when you jazz the throttle. Using a spray bottle with a mist of water helps to reveal stray sparks too. Might even try having an assistant put it in drive, hold the brake, and give it some RPM to "load" the engine slightly.

 

I have the same issue I have replaced so many things including the fuel pump the fuel spider the fuel pump I used was AC Delco I have replaced the temperature sensor on the driver side of the block new wires new plugs new rotors new cap.. turn the car on let it idle for 15 minutes it will start to sputter and then turn off please help

 

what year is your truck?

What is your key on fuel pressure and what is it after sitting and not running for 10 min?

what is fuel pressure doing as it dies?

watch spark at one of the plugs as it’s running and then dies.


George

 

I agree with Ramjam on this. It needs to be done anyway. Eliminate a known problem that could be causing the issue first. And just to add my $.02 to it. What kind of "driving" are you doing when the problem shows up? Is it around town or open road. The reason I am asking is it could be a fan clutch or thermostat issue. If it happens at idle or around town then it may be the fan. If it happens on the open road it could be a thermostat issue. If you can duplicate the problem by idling in your driveway. When it starts acting up spray water on the radiator with a water hose. And see if it clears up. You did mention it has progressively gotten worse with the summer heat. DS95 you may want to try this as well.